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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-22-2011, 04:44 PM   #37051
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
So the 17.5 WGT class is faster than the 17.5 12th or is it 10.5 WGT?
Boosted 13.5
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:46 PM   #37052
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I have the current CRC cars and I've picked up their batteries and I do love racing and have for over 30 years. The electronics in both cars were outdated after 1 1/2 years and the new one cell stuff was pricey. I run the race program here, so I am an avid promoter and supporter of the hobby. I just want to complain about the 30c , no now 40c, no now 60c. I don't whine to the racers and I know I'm not going to change the industry, but I would like to see my equipment be useable a year from now which I seriously doubt it will. I like to run fast and be competitive with the top cars. To do that , you have to keep up with the times and in electric racing that can be a constant changeover of gear. Most guys at the track have laptops tuning their esc and high end chargers monitoring 90c packs, with $100 dollar plus motors . I am in this for the long haul so I'm not trying to discourage anyone or say that I'm getting out. I was in this before most of you and I will be here longer than most. I would like to see more control over things like boost and "c" ratings and other high dollar things that are not even necessary to have competitive racing. I have vented and I will be at the races on Saturday with a smile . Somebody give me a shot of scotch and I'll be okay.
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:55 PM   #37053
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Boosted 13.5
As I've watched in my club that sounds about right
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:55 PM   #37054
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My 1/12 cost this year: $42 for a battery, new body and $40 for tires. So far.

Carryover from previous 5 years : Tekin RS, 17.5 D3, AE RC12R5.1, Trinty 220mah LiFe Rx pack, spurs, pinions, tools, etc.

Buy right the first time and you save money, following the fads can be costly.
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:58 PM   #37055
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What ESC were you running that is outdated now? All the old 2s stuff will work just fine with 1s so long as you use a booster or a receiver pack. This past October was the 3rd year in a row I ran my Tekin RS at the IIC...all I had to do was update the software with a hotwire. Most of the other brands also offer some sort of software update as well. With software updateable ESCs the need to buy new ones all the time is just about a thing of the past.
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:02 PM   #37056
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Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
My 1/12 cost this year: $42 for a battery, new body and $40 for tires. So far.

Carryover from previous 5 years : Tekin RS, 17.5 D3, AE RC12R5.1, Trinty 220mah LiFe Rx pack, spurs, pinions, tools, etc.

Buy right the first time and you save money, following the fads can be costly.
I love the new tech

not sure how long my 4.5T will last in 12th but it doesn't even get hot or even warm really. Speedo gets a tiny bit warm

Actually I hit someone parking on the straight pretty hard and body looks fine ...lol

And I used the same battery all night and no tape off at the end

Now my car is very far from dialed but just saying it is great to spend less money

Maybe boosted in the other thread is better according to many people that have posted. Initially logically you'd think Blinky would have better intentions but those who have a lot of recent experience say it is more costly to race blinky competitively I dunno but yea I like the new tech and these new inline cars are bitchen

Tires seem to be about the same as 7 years ago but maybe with bigger rims now I dunno

I hope my LRP Stock/Spec endures with the rest of the modern equipment
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:56 PM   #37057
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Default Tekin esc and rx lipo

Can anyone running a tekin with a rx pack to the on/off switch post a picture of the wires so do I solder the negative wire to the negative wire on the switch positve to positve? a picture would really help thanks
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:27 PM   #37058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spooky 1 View Post
I have the current CRC cars and I've picked up their batteries and I do love racing and have for over 30 years. The electronics in both cars were outdated after 1 1/2 years and the new one cell stuff was pricey.
Half the price of 2s, I'm sorry you were one of the racers that didn't see the future of free updates from a reputable mfg like Tekin, those that did, are still using the same esc for 4 years now.
I run the race program here, so I am an avid promoter and supporter of the hobby. I just want to complain about the 30c , no now 40c, no now 60c.
With round cells we were lucky to get 3 months out of a pack, though you wouldn't be competitive after a dozen runs on them. Lipo packs are good for 100's & 100's of runs, the good packs don't drop off much at all. While it is true that new batches come out once a year, 2 packs per car, per year $120.00, I give away the old ones, or sell them cheap to the locals to use.
I don't whine to the racers and I know I'm not going to change the industry, but I would like to see my equipment be useable a year from now which I seriously doubt it will.
I like to run fast and be competitive with the top cars. To do that , you have to keep up with the times and in electric racing that can be a constant changeover of gear. Most guys at the track have laptops tuning their esc and high end chargers monitoring 90c packs, with $100 dollar plus motors .
I'd like to hear more about these $100+ motors ?
Remember when stock motors were good for maybe a month of racing, and mod motors forget about it
Brushless motors don't even show signs of wear after several seasons of 12th scale, there were guys in the A-Main at the iic this year still kicking ass with the Duo1

I am in this for the long haul so I'm not trying to discourage anyone or say that I'm getting out. I was in this before most of you and I will be here longer than most. I would like to see more control over things like boost and "c" ratings and other high dollar things that are not even necessary to have competitive racing.
No doubt that competitive racing is always going to require more attention than simply partaking in the fun
I have vented and I will be at the races on Saturday with a smile . Somebody give me a shot of scotch and I'll be okay.

Wow, I don't often bite on stink bait, but I gotta admit you reeled me in big time
At first I thought you were serious.

Well played my friend, well played

First beer is on me at iic next year

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Old 11-22-2011, 07:29 PM   #37059
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Can anyone running a tekin with a rx pack to the on/off switch post a picture of the wires so do I solder the negative wire to the negative wire on the switch positve to positve? a picture would really help thanks
1 page back Gyr0
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:28 PM   #37060
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I ran my local track owners crc last year. He has a gtb 4 cell and never does any maintenance to it. The second week I ran it I was 2 laps up on the track record till a screw came out of the bumper mount. Fast drivers are going to be fast no matter what equipment they have. You don't need the lastest or greatest dodad or gizmo to go fast. I seen a video on youtube of a guy racing his Rc10 goldpan against all the modern designs and he was stomping them.
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:34 PM   #37061
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I wish I could get a mod class going locally but they have all they can do to handle 17.5 boosted here in East Central Illinois. The funny part is that our WGT class is "faster" by about .4 to .5 seconds.
Speak for yourself I would love to go to 13.5 boosted in 1/12, I think the rest of the guys would increase Big D's parts sales exponentially though
P.S. Who has the fastest lap this year?
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:43 PM   #37062
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Speak for yourself I would love to go to 13.5 boosted in 1/12, I think the rest of the guys would increase Big D's parts sales exponentially though
P.S. Who has the fastest lap this year?
At our track we run Blinky 17.5, and open.
13.5 boosted set the fastest lap so far, but a mod motor can run more consistent for the 8 min duration.
Nice thing about the open class is that each driver can strap in whatever he or she wants. No fancy new esc's needed.
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:55 PM   #37063
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I'm new to the 1/12 addiction this year thanks to the owner of Jtec Racing. From what I can tell it's just like all the other classes, consistency is the key. Tire choice is critical and chassis set up is minimal. Make sure all moving parts are free on the chassis. An up to date eye exam helps out tremendously too.
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Traxxas Slash(x2), 4x4 Slash VXL, Vendetta SC/ST
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:07 PM   #37064
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I'm new to the 1/12 addiction this year thanks to the owner of Jtec Racing. From what I can tell it's just like all the other classes, consistency is the key. Tire choice is critical and chassis set up is minimal. Make sure all moving parts are free on the chassis. An up to date eye exam helps out tremendously too.
Less setup variables than TC but still chassis set up is very crucial
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:01 PM   #37065
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Originally Posted by pettyeagles View Post
I'm new to the 1/12 addiction this year thanks to the owner of Jtec Racing. From what I can tell it's just like all the other classes, consistency is the key. Tire choice is critical and chassis set up is minimal. Make sure all moving parts are free on the chassis. An up to date eye exam helps out tremendously too.
Tire choice is critical (at least for the back, on most carpet at least you could run whatever the hell you want on the front) but I try to keep in mind that the kit recommended setup is pretty good.
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