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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-22-2011, 09:08 AM   #37036
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Default What's up with 12th rear pod uptravel...lol

So we set our droop so we can take bumps better usually around a 1mm or so but what about the other direction? It will bottom out but what about the rest of the travel? It's like an inch it still has movement

I wonder why there was never an limiter so when chassis hits bottom then it doesn't go so far

Do people put a limiter in the shock so it won't go too far past chassis bottoming out?

Just curious
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:40 AM   #37037
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
So we set our droop so we can take bumps better usually around a 1mm or so but what about the other direction? It will bottom out but what about the rest of the travel? It's like an inch it still has movement

I wonder why there was never an limiter so when chassis hits bottom then it doesn't go so far

Do people put a limiter in the shock so it won't go too far past chassis bottoming out?

Just curious
The R5 shock has very limited movement.

Though many other cars I've seen have a lot of up travel, maybe that aspect is not important, other than extra material in a shock that isn't doing anything ?

Droop setting is precise adjustment even on a smooth track.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:47 AM   #37038
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
So we set our droop so we can take bumps better usually around a 1mm or so but what about the other direction? It will bottom out but what about the rest of the travel? It's like an inch it still has movement

I wonder why there was never an limiter so when chassis hits bottom then it doesn't go so far

Do people put a limiter in the shock so it won't go too far past chassis bottoming out?

Just curious
Even though the uptravel of the associated shock is limited it will still allow the car to bottom out. If uptravel was important, I'm sure the Calandra brothers would have done something to their new shock. I guess I'm weird as I don't limit shock travel in any direction, my spring will run out of extension before it hits the bump stop and its only a 10lb spring, but I guess my track has some bumps, especially at 2/3 down the back straight where your going like hell. Works good though, never thought to myself "limiting travel would help this" or something to that effect.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:52 AM   #37039
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The R5 shock has very limited movement.

Though many other cars I've seen have a lot of up travel, maybe that aspect is not important, other than extra material in a shock that isn't doing anything ?

Droop setting is precise adjustment even on a smooth track.
Hey David,

I just always remember there being tons of up but never questioned why...lol

I was doing a rebuild of my car for the next race and was setting droop and wondered

I raced at NC and didn't have a lot of practice time but my car isn't doing so good. Seems to be way out of balance and steering really weird. Magenta/Magenta. This time I'll try Dbl pink/Pink. Now i've rebuilt everything and probably going to go and practice in a week or so and try some other springs ft, rear, top. Still don't understand the link car side springs and how they work. Still have t-bars on my mind...lol

Also confused about the side dampners as it's first time I've used them also

I was running the big rim Jaco and small rim front but will probably use the CRC as they seem really tough and round. Found out they are about 3mm wider or more offset than jaco?

Nothing is tweaked for it sucked both left, right, etc...lol

LRP Stock/Spec is great and I've set it at 0000

Rollout is good though ...lol 46.58mm

Motor TP is balistic and I'm barely on the throttle but car is very strange. Love the brushless and Lipo

Looking forward to dialing it in and coming to the Regionals with Ej, OD, and Steve
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:21 AM   #37040
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:32 AM   #37041
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So, I added some boost to things and geared to the moon and my 12th and 10th pans are much faster. I'm keeping an eye on heat right now and my gas stuff I was referring to is on-road 10th and 8th. I have run 12th on and off since the old 12i days and scratch built several along the way. I love 12th racing, but was annoyed with the one cell changeover . Electric has always been a game of chasing technology. I will race them and love it all winter, but I can't wait to smell the nitro again.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:21 AM   #37042
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Hey David,

I just always remember there being tons of up but never questioned why...lol

I was doing a rebuild of my car for the next race and was setting droop and wondered

I raced at NC and didn't have a lot of practice time but my car isn't doing so good. Seems to be way out of balance and steering really weird. Magenta/Magenta. This time I'll try Dbl pink/Pink. Now i've rebuilt everything and probably going to go and practice in a week or so and try some other springs ft, rear, top. Still don't understand the link car side springs and how they work. Still have t-bars on my mind...lol

Also confused about the side dampners as it's first time I've used them also

I was running the big rim Jaco and small rim front but will probably use the CRC as they seem really tough and round. Found out they are about 3mm wider or more offset than jaco?

Nothing is tweaked for it sucked both left, right, etc...lol

LRP Stock/Spec is great and I've set it at 0000

Rollout is good though ...lol 46.58mm

Motor TP is balistic and I'm barely on the throttle but car is very strange. Love the brushless and Lipo

Looking forward to dialing it in and coming to the Regionals with Ej, OD, and Steve
Have you tried a Black/Yellow combo yet.
I find that if Magenta doesn't work, Synthetic are the go.
One of the 2 combos will always have the car On-Point

If you have the right tires, side springs & oil are more of a fine tune dealio.
Stock R5 out of the box setup is good everywhere, I changed only minor things to tune for the day, and my style.
I still suggest folks start with that setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spooky 1 View Post
So, I added some boost to things and geared to the moon and my 12th and 10th pans are much faster. I'm keeping an eye on heat right now and my gas stuff I was referring to is on-road 10th and 8th. I have run 12th on and off since the old 12i days and scratch built several along the way. I love 12th racing, but was annoyed with the one cell changeover . Electric has always been a game of chasing technology. I will race them and love it all winter, but I can't wait to smell the nitro again.
1s lipo is the best thing to happen to 12th scale since foam tires.
Low cost, lightweight packs, with tons of run time.
Light cars means it's easier on tires, bodies etc.
Our sweet spot for motors is right in the middle of the range of the .5 spec motors, and there is more than enough with a mod motor.

Embrace the change, it will be here for a while.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:15 PM   #37043
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The change will be here for six months and then the latest greatest will get in our pockets again. I have already had both cars and spent more to upgrade them to get race ready this season than I have spent on my gas cars in the last five years. I did it because I love to race and all we have here at the moment is electric. It isn't the first time I've done this and won't be the last, but none of us will be running our present gear for long. My biggest gripe is that we don't have enough cars in this class to have a stock and mod, so I may be stuck with the slow stuff unless everyone in our class decides to go fast. I've always hated spending tons on electric cars only to have it all outdated the next season, and all you have to do is look at electric history to see that.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:17 PM   #37044
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If you have the right tires, side springs & oil are more of a fine tune dealio.
Stock R5 out of the box setup is good everywhere, I changed only minor things to tune for the day, and my style.
I still suggest folks start with that setup.
I completely agree with you. I always suggest that someone start with the out of the box settings. I'm still using those on my third variant of the RC12r5.x and it still works well enough to remain on top at my track.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:41 PM   #37045
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One reason to have lots of up travel is for hits to the rear. If you get rear ended and the shock stops, shock mounts, shafts, top plates, etc. can break.

As for performance, doesn't really matter.
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Old 11-22-2011, 01:09 PM   #37046
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The change will be here for six months and then the latest greatest will get in our pockets again. I have already had both cars and spent more to upgrade them to get race ready this season than I have spent on my gas cars in the last five years. I did it because I love to race and all we have here at the moment is electric. It isn't the first time I've done this and won't be the last, but none of us will be running our present gear for long. My biggest gripe is that we don't have enough cars in this class to have a stock and mod, so I may be stuck with the slow stuff unless everyone in our class decides to go fast. I've always hated spending tons on electric cars only to have it all outdated the next season, and all you have to do is look at electric history to see that.
You could not be more wrong if you bought the correct equipment. I've been running my Tekin esc's for two + yrs, and I still run an old smooth can novak brushless motor that I cannot remember how long I've had it, four yrs at least. In the last two yrs I have'nt had to spend more than $250 to race and most of that was for tires and some new batts. If I look back even further the total cost is still only around $500 in the last five yrs and that includes the cost to update my charger when lipo came out. Now I admit I'm not the fastest guy but I'm not the slowest either.

12th scale has never been more affordable; think back to the days of the 12i when you needed six battery packs(which lasted a few weeks or so) rebuilt the motor every run etc. Now those days were expensive.
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Old 11-22-2011, 01:51 PM   #37047
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Originally Posted by spooky 1 View Post
The change will be here for six months and then the latest greatest will get in our pockets again. I have already had both cars and spent more to upgrade them to get race ready this season than I have spent on my gas cars in the last five years. I did it because I love to race and all we have here at the moment is electric. It isn't the first time I've done this and won't be the last, but none of us will be running our present gear for long. My biggest gripe is that we don't have enough cars in this class to have a stock and mod, so I may be stuck with the slow stuff unless everyone in our class decides to go fast. I've always hated spending tons on electric cars only to have it all outdated the next season, and all you have to do is look at electric history to see that.
Hey it's cool to have another brother in 12th scale, but your comments don't seem based on reality.
Others here have already pointed out that the platform has been stable for a few years now, and there is no change on the horizon that will outdate the equipment you are buying today.

A 12L and the ilk of T-bar cars are still competitive at a club level if the driver is up to it.

Mod for what ever reason is a hard sell, agree with you there, but if you run it in practice, and get a few followers, more will come.

But not with a negative nancy attitude

Are you having any fun with this hobby, or is it all bah humbug ?
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:17 PM   #37048
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I wish I could get a mod class going locally but they have all they can do to handle 17.5 boosted here in East Central Illinois. The funny part is that our WGT class is "faster" by about .4 to .5 seconds.
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:36 PM   #37049
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I wish I could get a mod class going locally but they have all they can do to handle 17.5 boosted here in East Central Illinois. The funny part is that our WGT class is "faster" by about .4 to .5 seconds.
So the 17.5 WGT class is faster than the 17.5 12th or is it 10.5 WGT?
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:38 PM   #37050
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I think he means that the bigger car with bigger tires means more control for the same horsepower. The WGT drivers might just be better though. To me anything slower than boosted 13.5 just feels anemic.
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