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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-21-2011, 04:32 PM   #37021
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yeah wiring it to my tekin thanks!
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:00 PM   #37022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
TRC I believe is the same or very close to the Jaco/Parma wheels. CRC has a wider off-set so you would need to narrow the rear by 2-3mm per side.
Thanks
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:15 PM   #37023
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I'm setting up a 12th and 10th pan car ( CRC ) for the winter season here and I just wanted to know what the hell is this one-cell lipo stuff. Who decided this was feasable. What an electronic mess. No wonder I left electric for gas years ago. This one-cell thing is slow and a wiring mess with the external boost for rx and separate rx packs for a stupid one-cell. If I manage to get these cars going before I spend a fortune for slow electronics. The only class that can run boost is the open class and yet you still have to run a stupid one-cell. Okay, I'm done ranting. How can you get any decent speed out of 3.7 volts. My cars feel like pigs no matter where I gear them. I'm used to running these ( many moons ago ) when they were fast. What are you guys doing to go fast, or has everyone given up on going fast. I am running the sxx controller v2 with a speed passion 10.5 . I have the CRC 5600 65c pack .
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:45 PM   #37024
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If you are running the SXX v2 you don't need the rx pack or booster. AEs Keven Hebert ran last weekend at the Timezone Gran Prix with a Stock Spec and a 4.5 and completly ripped it up.. my club (www.seattlercracers.com) runs boosted 10.5 in WGT and non boosted 13.5 for 1/12 scale and it is awesome...
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:48 PM   #37025
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+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Boosted 13.5, 1S
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:58 PM   #37026
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I guess the no boost is the issue. We started running here with no boost and I changed over to the sxx because I didn't want to have to charge a little rx pack. Maybe with 10.5 boost we can enjoy a bit of speed again. I'll try it on Saturday at our races and see. Can anyone tell me why the WGT class is running a one-cell instead of two.
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:06 PM   #37027
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Sorry to be so down on this thread, but every time I leave electric racing for 8 months, I come back and have to buy all new equipment because everything is different. This isn't cheap stuff. If I could run my gas cars year round here , I would never run electric again.
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:18 PM   #37028
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I've been running 1/12th since 1980 and I'll tell you, I love the racing now.

I've run the same Tekin ESC for 2 1/2 years and the same motor for 2 years. The battery I replaced a year ago but not because it was bad. The replacement was $ 56.00.

I wish Lipo and brushless was around years ago. Hardware replacement is minimal. Tires and a body are all I've replaced in the last year.

Not sure what you need to purchase after 8 months away.
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:29 PM   #37029
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Been running the R5's for over 2 yrs now, same 1s lipo, esc still apply.

Guess I got in at the right time when it all was changing over.

WGT run 1s blinky 13.5 here, and are a blast to drive.

Nothing wrong with 1s at all, you want more power, you put in a faster motor, simple, like it has always been
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:33 PM   #37030
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I had a Sphere TC and two cell batteries. My brushless motor didn't have adjustable timing and I didn't even have a charger that would do one-cell. So with no boost and no adjustable timing and only two cell batteries and charger, I had to start over. I guess if you are at it year round you can slowly add what you need as you go along. I have had this same thing happen a couple of times when getting back into electric, and its annoying when I only need to pick up an occasional new engine for nitro every few years.
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:03 PM   #37031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spooky 1 View Post
I'm setting up a 12th and 10th pan car ( CRC ) for the winter season here and I just wanted to know what the hell is this one-cell lipo stuff. Who decided this was feasable. What an electronic mess. No wonder I left electric for gas years ago. This one-cell thing is slow and a wiring mess with the external boost for rx and separate rx packs for a stupid one-cell. If I manage to get these cars going before I spend a fortune for slow electronics. The only class that can run boost is the open class and yet you still have to run a stupid one-cell. Okay, I'm done ranting. How can you get any decent speed out of 3.7 volts. My cars feel like pigs no matter where I gear them. I'm used to running these ( many moons ago ) when they were fast. What are you guys doing to go fast, or has everyone given up on going fast. I am running the sxx controller v2 with a speed passion 10.5 . I have the CRC 5600 65c pack .
Small spur+large pinion=Holy *hit that thing is fast!!!!
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:24 PM   #37032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spooky 1 View Post
I had a Sphere TC and two cell batteries. My brushless motor didn't have adjustable timing and I didn't even have a charger that would do one-cell. So with no boost and no adjustable timing and only two cell batteries and charger, I had to start over. I guess if you are at it year round you can slowly add what you need as you go along. I have had this same thing happen a couple of times when getting back into electric, and its annoying when I only need to pick up an occasional new engine for nitro every few years.
Spook, you don't need adjustable timing (the motor almost certainly came with 30 degrees or more built in), or two cell, or anything like that. Just get the car to run and gear it to the moon if its slow. A conservative gearing in MY 1/12 scale with a 13.5 was an 80mm rollout, that was with a 44 tooth pinion. 17.5 guys routinely run 100mm of rollout to get top end even on small indoor tracks. Just think: No more $30 gallons of fuel, no more $100 sets of tires, and parts are two dollars instead of $20. Plus the racing is better, as its a real drivers game instead of jump-turn-jump-turn.
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:33 PM   #37033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spooky 1 View Post
I had a Sphere TC and two cell batteries. My brushless motor didn't have adjustable timing and I didn't even have a charger that would do one-cell. So with no boost and no adjustable timing and only two cell batteries and charger, I had to start over. I guess if you are at it year round you can slowly add what you need as you go along. I have had this same thing happen a couple of times when getting back into electric, and its annoying when I only need to pick up an occasional new engine for nitro every few years.
When did two cell batteries apply to 12th scale ?
As far as I know, we went from 4cell to 1s.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:47 AM   #37034
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Bob you couldnt said it better Im 28 years old now.. i went to my 1st cleveland at age 17 my set everything up for me i took a flight got to the air port and there was the driver took me to the hotel i checked in had my own room it was dialed... Im from south jersey i thought i was the shit i started racing at 14 i just recieved my 50% from trinity and i adn i had 1 fresh switchblades 12 and a fresh losi tc with novak speedo ... pretty much carbon copys of the factory team boys cars...think it was the street weapon with the cyrul conversion on it..ya... and man what a slap in the face!like u said.. i was the on the rise at home but man o man.. im suprise they didnt throw me off the team there.lol think i was in the last mains in both my 1st year... but good memeorys... I remeber the 4th floor was the AE floor...lol But i will tell u what i learned more there coming in almost last then anywere and i kept going every year and included snowbirds and then talked my good friend JEFF CUFFS into coming and we drove and each year we got high and high till me made the mains ... Matter fact look at cuffs now! plus changes the tc3 came out this an that... .. and GOOD OLD DENNYS!!!!



Quote:
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They were so cool, wheel dots. *sniff*

Nothing slaps you in the face more than finding out where you stood on a national level like a good solid beatdown, in the Q main.

I recall hating it and liking it. I think the highest I ever got back then was 2nd in the "B", and I'm not complaining when you go 200+ drivers deep in a class. In fact, now that I think about it the last 2 times I raced masters at Cleveland I was in the "B"... SON-of-a-BITZ... I'm stuck in the B!!!

But it was nice to see it. You could honestly say back then and I think it was reasonable to say it. "dude, I took 34th. Makes me the 34th fastest driver in the country. 2 classes, everybody was in them, everybody was there.

Now, everybody is special and needs a trophy and a class, or the racing isn't "fair". Sometimes your gonna suck real bad, maybe even all the time. But that's why it's called racing and not simply, "winning".

I find I do a lot more "racing" than I used to. Now, to get masters age limit moved about 10 years older and toss out some of the young bucks. Or whoever we have to toss to finally get me in the show. that's the direction we should be pursuing.
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:00 AM   #37035
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I would love to find someone who would sell

a trinity switchblade 12 spas edtion...
or the losi streetweapon with the cyrul conversion
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