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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-19-2011, 11:25 PM   #36991
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Cool

Somewhere down in Florida, there is a guy who probably still has some Agitator stuff.

Lucas is still around racing 1/8th scales.

I kind of thought we just used 12L shocks though, but that was a long time ago.

4-cells and wheel dots.
I sure miss those days Bob, and the 400+ entries of 12th scale at Cleveland this time of year.
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Old 11-19-2011, 11:48 PM   #36992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
How much of the car do you have now? I had, at one point, a complete car I raced. I find parts of it periodically. It's possible I have the shock. but it's likely in with a bunch of others. do you have a bad pic as a reference? I know you were looking for a good pic.

Was it a silver delta? possibly gold? I just can't remember.

I've got a picture of a car I raced at Cleveland in 89. Was a chassis I made with an Agitator rear and a 12L front. the shock is something I made, so not going to help, but might jog a memory somewhere. Assuming both mounts are right, you're looking for a shock with ball cups on both ends.

Thanks Bob for responding

Just the production advanced racing top shock that was like dampner tube shock with no oil but lube

What I am wanting is a mock up for a design of a universal dampning shock for 12th scale and I remember that the Agitator we're like what I mentioned so I wanted it as a visual only mostly. I still need to probably draw it up and borrow an lathe or have it done. My idea was to make it universal so all cars with short or long top shocks could with spacers or whatever use it as upgrade for 12th cars

I like the idea of being able to change lubes very quickly like I did so long ago and not having to deal with oil bubbles or multiple shocks with different oils

I don't have problems with maintenance since it's so fast and easy like side dampers that almost completely rule the 12th cars with the crc side braces/springs

It is something I'd like to do so that is where my inquery stems from in it's initial mockup

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Somewhere down in Florida, there is a guy who probably still has some Agitator stuff.

Lucas is still around racing 1/8th scales.

I kind of thought we just used 12L shocks though, but that was a long time ago.

4-cells and wheel dots.
I sure miss those days Bob, and the 400+ entries of 12th scale at Cleveland this time of year.
I really like the dampning vs. the oil and did well with my stock Agitator doing the same lap times or better as the top guys at Bob and Jims RC world the same race you offered me your sponsorship with Fast Fashion

Going to try to race tomorrow at Norcal for their first race series

Looking forward to regionals

See you then David
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Old 11-20-2011, 12:04 AM   #36993
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Wheel Dots, yes!!!! I remember my dad getting pissed at me for them being stuck all over the garage floor. Ha, thanks!
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Old 11-20-2011, 12:16 AM   #36994
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Used to have an Agitator, the top shock was an oversized damper tube. The main body was a delrin tube, closed at one end with a lip for a spring perch. I don't remember if you used a collar or spacers to adjust ride height. The piston was a nylon rod about 3/8ths in diameter and maybe 1/2 inch long. Bob is right, ball cups at both ends. The larger diameter compared to side damper tubes gave extra and more consistant damping. Unfortunately I too got rid of mine long ago.
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Old 11-20-2011, 12:23 AM   #36995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
Used to have an Agitator, the top shock was an oversized damper tube. The main body was a delrin tube, closed at one end with a lip for a spring perch. I don't remember if you used a collar or spacers to adjust ride height. The piston was a nylon rod about 3/8ths in diameter and maybe 1/2 inch long. Bob is right, ball cups at both ends. The larger diameter compared to side damper tubes gave extra and more consistant damping. Unfortunately I too got rid of mine long ago.
Yes the spring perch at one end and collar at the other which you couldn't tighten too much as it was delrin and would pinch the inner shaft

This could be fixed with aluminum tube and perhaps threaded for adjuster

I think with long set screws and some interesting spacers it could fit all cars

It is just an idea I have that some 12th enthusiasts might find interesting

Still no pics of your serpent Lonny
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Old 11-20-2011, 12:35 AM   #36996
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It ain't that pretty,
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Old 11-20-2011, 12:41 AM   #36997
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It ain't that pretty,
Sometimes ugly is fast
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:17 AM   #36998
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4-cells and wheel dots.
I sure miss those days Bob, and the 400+ entries of 12th scale at Cleveland this time of year.
They were so cool, wheel dots. *sniff*

Nothing slaps you in the face more than finding out where you stood on a national level like a good solid beatdown, in the Q main.

I recall hating it and liking it. I think the highest I ever got back then was 2nd in the "B", and I'm not complaining when you go 200+ drivers deep in a class. In fact, now that I think about it the last 2 times I raced masters at Cleveland I was in the "B"... SON-of-a-BITZ... I'm stuck in the B!!!

But it was nice to see it. You could honestly say back then and I think it was reasonable to say it. "dude, I took 34th. Makes me the 34th fastest driver in the country. 2 classes, everybody was in them, everybody was there.

Now, everybody is special and needs a trophy and a class, or the racing isn't "fair". Sometimes your gonna suck real bad, maybe even all the time. But that's why it's called racing and not simply, "winning".

I find I do a lot more "racing" than I used to. Now, to get masters age limit moved about 10 years older and toss out some of the young bucks. Or whoever we have to toss to finally get me in the show. that's the direction we should be pursuing.
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:36 AM   #36999
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I had a thought while ordering parts for my TC...very early 1/12ths ran a gear diff but the ball diff became the diff of choice due to it's adjust ability and it's smoothness...Now that gear diffs in the TC are getting to be very light and very smooth I wonder how long it will be until we see them in pan cars again if ever.
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:43 AM   #37000
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Back in the days i drove the 1:12 Tamiya Porsche 956 i have beaten the real 1:12 cars a lot in the silvercan class.
The Tamiya had also a gear diff.
Sadly it was a open type gear diff.
That car on stock tires was a blast to drive

regards Roy
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:59 AM   #37001
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Default 1/12 gear diff

The early 1/12th cars I ran were straight axle, no diff at all. At some point, I ran the delta gear diff (a long time ago, in a place far far away...) and the thing I remembered most was the tendency to strip the teeth on the spur any time you had an abrupt stop, like hitting something. Now I know we are trying to not have that happen, but it does. The material may have been too brittle that they molded the spurs out of, but it may just be an inherent issue with gear diffs in 1/12 or 1/10 pan cars. Since a ball diff will give a little, no matter how well built to not slip, it does help alleviate this problem. I would guess that the TC cars do not develop the grip with the narrow rubber that the wide foams do, and the amount of give in the belt drive system that most run is why they have not seen many similar failures while the gears diffs are in vogue in TC right now.

I still have a few of those Delta gear diffs somewhere. I should dig them out...

-a
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:12 AM   #37002
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I have heard that the delta diff where indeed to brittle.
Never had a stripped gear on the Tamiya tho,spurs or the smaller gears in the diff it self.

regards Roy
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:22 AM   #37003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Back in the days i drove the 1:12 Tamiya Porsche 956 i have beaten the real 1:12 cars a lot in the silvercan class.
The Tamiya had also a gear diff.
Sadly it was a open type gear diff.
That car on stock tires was a blast to drive

regards Roy
I ran the Toyota Toms car once against a class of 27T 12L's on a low to med grip asphalt track, and worked them.
Out of the box gearing, tires, body, Silvercan, 2400ma stick pack et all.

Tamiya used to have such dialed out of the box equipment.

A proper sealed gear diff in 12th would work fine imo.
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:29 AM   #37004
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Had the Delta Spyder and it came with gear diff and if I remember correctly it caused wheel lift

It might not be move forward like with TC
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:29 AM   #37005
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Same for me.
Stock motor and tires,mech speed controle and at first the red sanyo's 1200SCR.
Later on the 1700 or indeed 2400.
At first indeed stock gearing but when tires git thinner i used bigger pinions

regards Roy

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I ran the Toyota Toms car once against a class of 27T 12L's on a low to med grip asphalt track, and worked them.
Out of the box gearing, tires, body, Silvercan, 2400ma stick pack et all.

Tamiya used to have such dialed out of the box equipment.

A proper sealed gear diff in 12th would work fine imo.
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