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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-27-2011, 04:15 AM   #36856
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Ditto, it looks nice but its actually a pain to use. Keep your current setup.
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Old 10-27-2011, 04:35 AM   #36857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpent Lover View Post
Cool most of the drivers use either the TEKIN or the LRP so I will go with either one of those. I will decide on what motor when I talk to a buddy that runs 1/12. Again thanks everyone for your great help.
I've found the LRP super easy to set up and use, no need for a laptop trackside either!
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:14 AM   #36858
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Last year i was running the Tekin with a Speed passion 13.6 motor in our stock 1/12th class and i never had the right feeling from the car it was either all on or all off , i wasn't happy ,

During the summer i decided to try the Tekin out in my 0 timing touring car and + on -'ed it OOPS

so i now am using the Speed pasion GT2.0 , it has a built in booster and allthough it is a bit big and heavy it is really progressive and i am not a great driver but i am only 4/10ths off the lap record at my track

another plus point is i can program without the laptop (but it is always at the track)
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:18 AM   #36859
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What about driving advice, LOL God knows i am gonna need it with these FAST little beast.
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:20 AM   #36860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpent Lover View Post
What about driving advice, LOL God knows i am gonna need it with these FAST little beast.
Start slow and don't oversteer. These are very responsive cars and it's very easy to turn in early right into the board.

Get a feel for the car and slowly increase the speed as you become comfortable.
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:30 AM   #36861
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Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Start slow and don't oversteer. These are very responsive cars and it's very easy to turn in early right into the board.

Get a feel for the car and slowly increase the speed as you become comfortable.
I wish i had listened to tis advice , i am still doing this now in my 2nd year 1/12th racing

I need to relax more and slow down with my driving style , but it is so hard to remeber in an 8 min final
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:57 AM   #36862
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Take all or nearly all the drag brake out of the car. Roll it slowly around the track. Feel how quickly it turns in. Start giving quick bursts on the longest straights. As you add more throttle try to keep the car rolling smoothly around the corners. In 1/12TH smooth is the word. Don't rush it.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:09 PM   #36863
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Anybody know the rear wheel offset for the mounted 12th scale tires that RC4Less sells? Is the same as Jaco's, CRC's, etc.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:19 PM   #36864
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WOW to all, thanks for the GREAT advice. I will start slow and try to remember everything here as i start to get used to driving the car.
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:11 PM   #36865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpent Lover View Post
What about driving advice, LOL God knows i am gonna need it with these FAST little beast.
Last friday I had my first day of 1/12 driving, I'm driving an S120LT.
The first two batteries I was turning in way to early and hit almost every barrier.
The next couple of batteries I decided to turn in way later and basically go wide every corner. Because of this I could run several laps without hitting anything and started to find a rhythm. At the end of the evening I was already closer to the curbs and putting in some decent laps.
But still I found the car being too aggressive so I changed the oil in the side tubes from 15k to 30K which calmed down the car tremendously and made it much smoother.
I took some more steering out by going one step harder on the front springs, but I think I will go back to the stock ones tomorrow because now I feel like I can use some more steering.
Next I will focus on the esc settings (we run 13,5 with timing) and gearing options to make sure I'm not down on power.

BTW, 1/12 is a really nice class, finally found a nice class to run during the winter period.

Also don't put too much effort in your first body shell, it will be ruined after 3-4 days of running.
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:29 PM   #36866
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Last friday I had my first day of 1/12 driving, I'm driving an S120LT.
The first two batteries I was turning in way to early and hit almost every barrier.
The next couple of batteries I decided to turn in way later and basically go wide every corner. Because of this I could run several laps without hitting anything and started to find a rhythm. At the end of the evening I was already closer to the curbs and putting in some decent laps.
But still I found the car being too aggressive so I changed the oil in the side tubes from 15k to 30K which calmed down the car tremendously and made it much smoother.
I took some more steering out by going one step harder on the front springs, but I think I will go back to the stock ones tomorrow because now I feel like I can use some more steering.
Next I will focus on the esc settings (we run 13,5 with timing) and gearing options to make sure I'm not down on power.

BTW, 1/12 is a really nice class, finally found a nice class to run during the winter period.

Also don't put too much effort in your first body shell, it will be ruined after 3-4 days of running.
Where do you run ?? MACH Haarlem ??

I will be there for EPS , hope to see you there
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:45 PM   #36867
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Where do you run ?? MACH Haarlem ??

I will be there for EPS , hope to see you there
Yes, I was the yellow car at last weekends club race.

I hope to compete at the EPS as well, currently trying to find an 10,5T X12 motor which seems to be completely sold out.
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:47 PM   #36868
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Also don't put too much effort in your first body shell, it will be ruined after 3-4 days of running.
You mean to say that you actually got 3-4 days out of your first body. You must be a good driver.

Good advice to newbies in 1/12. Forget the lightweight bodies and go for the heavy stuff. Parma EE in .030 is rather strong and doesn't weigh all that much. Good learning body to use.
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Old 10-27-2011, 02:04 PM   #36869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
You mean to say that you actually got 3-4 days out of your first body. You must be a good driver.

Good advice to newbies in 1/12. Forget the lightweight bodies and go for the heavy stuff. Parma EE in .030 is rather strong and doesn't weigh all that much. Good learning body to use.
lol, I still use a 0.030" with lots of reinforcement.
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:31 PM   #36870
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Of course, you need to understand that The Rat is pretty fast and when he does hit something, he really whacks it.
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