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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-26-2011, 02:04 PM   #36841
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REDBULL, thanks a million looks like you are into 1/12, what spare parts should i order when ordering the kit, i liked to order doubles of all spare parts that normally break in a collision. Again thank you kindly.
I'd go with chickys' advice as well as Temsport

That new Serpent is a sweet ride.

Haven't broken anything on my R5's in 2 years, I'd imagine the Serpent is at least as durable.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:04 PM   #36842
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Cheers dude
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:17 PM   #36843
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Thanks everyone, i will order the items listed that may break, excited about learning how to drive these fast little beast. What is the ESC and Motor recommended for these? Sorry for the dumb questions.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:35 PM   #36844
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Thanks everyone, i will order the items listed that may break, excited about learning how to drive these fast little beast. What is the ESC and Motor recommended for these? Sorry for the dumb questions.
The best motor and ESC at a given track depends on who is inputting the settings, the Stock Spec V2 and LRP X12 is a fantastic motor-ESC combo, but my stock spec is matched at my home track by a Trinity Duo One and Tekin RS ESC in the hands of somebody else. The answer is that there are no silver bullets, especially in blinky, and they all perform about the same at the correct gearing. If I had a pick of all available motors for Blinky, I would go with an LRP X12 or Corally Pro RED, just my guess.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:39 PM   #36845
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Originally Posted by Serpent Lover View Post
Thanks everyone, i will order the items listed that may break, excited about learning how to drive these fast little beast. What is the ESC and Motor recommended for these? Sorry for the dumb questions.
It's not a dumb questions but you'll get a bunch of dumb answers , well not really dumb more like biased.

Here's the deal about ESCs, almost all will do the job. Some will do it better and those would be the LRP, Viper, Tekin, Hobbywing, Speed Passion, Black Diamond and the list goes on. Pick one that others use at your local track so you can share set ups and troubleshoot if necessary. We had one guy at our track last Sunday asking how to program his Havok and all he got were blank looks, someone downloaded the manual and finally was able to help him out. That's another point, always bring your manual with you.

I tried out a Duo3 and it was pretty good.
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:05 PM   #36846
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Cool most of the drivers use either the TEKIN or the LRP so I will go with either one of those. I will decide on what motor when I talk to a buddy that runs 1/12. Again thanks everyone for your great help.
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:36 PM   #36847
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Default Shock Angle

What's the deal with shock angle's *Seinfeld*

I would like everyone's opinion for as many cars as possible

Most cars have multiple shock positions for where the shock touches shock chassis mount

And then we can put spacers on top pod brace?

What's up with this...lol

Thank you
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:17 PM   #36848
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
What's the deal with shock angle's *Seinfeld*

I would like everyone's opinion for as many cars as possible

Most cars have multiple shock positions for where the shock touches shock chassis mount

And then we can put spacers on top pod brace?

What's up with this...lol

Thank you
To my knowledge, angling the "front" of the shock down (the end attaching to the antenna mount) makes the spring and dampening of the rear pod more progressive and stiffer. Its not a lot, but it counts. I just run my shock in the stock recommended position.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:36 PM   #36849
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
What's the deal with shock angle's *Seinfeld*

I would like everyone's opinion for as many cars as possible

Most cars have multiple shock positions for where the shock touches shock chassis mount

And then we can put spacers on top pod brace?

What's up with this...lol

Thank you
I imagine it changes the motion ratio of the both the spring and damper... A good way to make minute changes that affect both spring rate and damping.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:57 PM   #36850
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Originally Posted by Serpent Lover View Post
Ok i am new to 1/12 and i am thinking of getting the new SERPENT S120LT, i have been away from the hobby for about 1 year, there is a new indoor track near me only 8 miles away and I want to get back into it. I decided 1/12 as it is cheaper than 1/10 on road after it is all said and done. Where would be the BEST place to get SERPENT parts for this KIT? Also from all the 1/12 drivers experience what should be ALL the extra parts i should order when i order the kit? In other words what are the parts that break the most after a crash, being that i never drove a 1/12 car and never a 2WD car at that, i am more than sure i will be eating the wall a lot I still have my LIPO chargers and will only be running LIPO'S. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. Keep in mind i will NOT be racing yet, i NEED to practice a ton before i dare even think of racing a 1/12. Again thanks to all who can help and guide me in the correct direction.
Love Bob Stormer, Stormer is the best. BUT, Serpent parts can run low so if they are out, you can try A-Main or Ashford. Both carry Serpent and give very good service. Running on a slippery track with lots of traffic, I have broken lower front arms, a Kingpin, bent a front top link, had to replace the steering block because the broken kingpin wouldn't come out, and broke a side link. The latter I replaced with 12R5 parts because they are a little beefier, likewise on the body posts. Get some shock rebuild kits, mine seems to wear quickly and be very careful not to over tighten the shock cap, the seal is thin and distorts easily. Once you overdo it you need a new seal. Good luck, I'm sure you will be very happy with the car, I am.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:43 PM   #36851
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Lonny thanks so much for the advice and for helping me with the extras i should order, cant wait, although i will be nervous as heck the first few times driving this little JET Hopefully i can atleast do 1 lap around, LOL!
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:32 PM   #36852
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Mine is the original S120L, not the LT, but with the kit set up on it it was fast right out of the box and has responded nicely to changes.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:29 AM   #36853
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Hey guys does anybody have any info on that bad a$$ tweek boardhttp://www.unitytool.com/tweakboard/.. saw pics of it on racers tables. and all... Guys what are your thoughts about it is it worth the money? I already own the hudy pan car setupstaion and the corally Tweekboard.
I was gonna do 1 of 3 choices... can u give me ur opinion

1... get the tweakboard system... that way i dont have to bring the Corally one and the hudy station which i hardly ever use at the trac anyway..

2... Get the NEW hudy tweekstation and width board.. and use my hudy setup stup

3... do nothing and just keep what i got..lol
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:42 AM   #36854
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Your lucky to have the Hudy station at all. I still have to use the old eye method (it looks good enough). Keep what you have for when you need it.
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:16 AM   #36855
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The unity station is a nice tool...but the Hudy station is better. The unity tool suffers from 1 major flaw...it takes it's measurements off of the rim. Under normal race conditions for the average racer rims get bent and warped often which will throw off your settings.
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