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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-24-2011, 07:27 PM   #36826
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Don't know who is telling you that, the CRC front end is excellent. Yes the fully boxed pod upgrade is nice but the car has won MANY major events without it.

The AE car is also very good but I'm not a fan of the shocks. Nothing really wrong with them, just not my style. Give me an HB or CRC shock and tubes any day.
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:32 PM   #36827
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Most of the guys at our club that have a CRC, run it straight out of the box.
It does just fine.

Some prefer the bling of aluminum, and/or want the added strength for running mod.

The Top Rebel is another great out of the box kit.

It's hard to go wrong with any of the 12th kits out there.
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:35 PM   #36828
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Just remembered, there is one required upgrade for the CRC. The car still comes with the thin upper plate which will break if you aren't a world class driver so if you don't go the boxed pod route, you will want to get the thick top plate. Fortunately, it's fairly cheap.
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:35 PM   #36829
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I actually fully boxed the rear pod on my CRC before it was even complete, but its not really needed. The plastic parts that are spoken of are pretty sturdy, carbon-fiber reinforced composites. I thought the same thing at first, that the plastic wasn't as good as the aluminum standoffs and such, but today I'm not so sure. The only thing I don't really agree with is the use of stainless screws instead of aluminum in non-critical areas, but they said that the additional weight down low in the chassis is good if you don't need to fight to make weight.
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:21 PM   #36830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Just remembered, there is one required upgrade for the CRC. The car still comes with the thin upper plate which will break if you aren't a world class driver so if you don't go the boxed pod route, you will want to get the thick top plate. Fortunately, it's fairly cheap.
Guess it depends on the class you're running. I'm by no means a "PRO" racer, but I went a full season on the outta the box top plate in 17.5 boosted. It broke when I had a "failure" of the brain and drove a 13.5 full pull into the end of an 80' ft. straight. I then put on the 4mm (at the start of LAST season), and haven't looked back.
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Old 10-25-2011, 03:29 AM   #36831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Briscoe View Post
For timing in the motor keep it at 0 when running boost, and don't go crazy with the ESC ramping, and you should be fine. I've only ran boosted in the WGT and it is insane fast; it has a lot of natural RPM so you don't need to run the same amount of boost as you would with the D3.

Keep an eye on temperature and it will be a great motor.
Thanx for the help.
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:59 AM   #36832
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Default Is the Serpent 1/12 scale good?

Not sure if i should buy the serpent 1/12 or the yokomo. Our track mostly uses serpent but later on yokomo will be supporting us. If you ppl know jj wang i go to the same track as him so yokomo came over to check the place out and now they are sending more cars and are sending people to sell and support yokomo's. THe yokomo is way to expensive in my opinion but people say its good.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:39 AM   #36833
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Originally Posted by wonderjew View Post
Not sure if i should buy the serpent 1/12 or the yokomo. Our track mostly uses serpent but later on yokomo will be supporting us. If you ppl know jj wang i go to the same track as him so yokomo came over to check the place out and now they are sending more cars and are sending people to sell and support yokomo's. THe yokomo is way to expensive in my opinion but people say its good.
The new Serpent looks awesome.

The Yokomo is such a rare sight here, but obviously it works in the hands of the World Champ

List of all the cars HERE
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:48 PM   #36834
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I have been extremely happy with my S120L. The only downside is the parts are a little more expensive than CRC or AE.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:28 AM   #36835
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Default bodyshell

Guys, what bodyshell are you lot running in stock? I have just started 10.5 blinky, was thinking about the Audi Rc8, how does it compare to the bomb r or amr?
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:40 AM   #36836
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
Guys, what bodyshell are you lot running in stock? I have just started 10.5 blinky, was thinking about the Audi Rc8, how does it compare to the bomb r or amr?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9821473-post97.html
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:09 PM   #36837
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Ok i am new to 1/12 and i am thinking of getting the new SERPENT S120LT, i have been away from the hobby for about 1 year, there is a new indoor track near me only 8 miles away and I want to get back into it. I decided 1/12 as it is cheaper than 1/10 on road after it is all said and done. Where would be the BEST place to get SERPENT parts for this KIT? Also from all the 1/12 drivers experience what should be ALL the extra parts i should order when i order the kit? In other words what are the parts that break the most after a crash, being that i never drove a 1/12 car and never a 2WD car at that, i am more than sure i will be eating the wall a lot I still have my LIPO chargers and will only be running LIPO'S. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. Keep in mind i will NOT be racing yet, i NEED to practice a ton before i dare even think of racing a 1/12. Again thanks to all who can help and guide me in the correct direction.
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:37 PM   #36838
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Originally Posted by Serpent Lover View Post
Ok i am new to 1/12 and i am thinking of getting the new SERPENT S120LT, i have been away from the hobby for about 1 year, there is a new indoor track near me only 8 miles away and I want to get back into it. I decided 1/12 as it is cheaper than 1/10 on road after it is all said and done. Where would be the BEST place to get SERPENT parts for this KIT? Also from all the 1/12 drivers experience what should be ALL the extra parts i should order when i order the kit? In other words what are the parts that break the most after a crash, being that i never drove a 1/12 car and never a 2WD car at that, i am more than sure i will be eating the wall a lot I still have my LIPO chargers and will only be running LIPO'S. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. Keep in mind i will NOT be racing yet, i NEED to practice a ton before i dare even think of racing a 1/12. Again thanks to all who can help and guide me in the correct direction.
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:52 PM   #36839
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REDBULL, thanks a million looks like you are into 1/12, what spare parts should i order when ordering the kit, i liked to order doubles of all spare parts that normally break in a collision. Again thank you kindly.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:33 PM   #36840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpent Lover View Post
REDBULL, thanks a million looks like you are into 1/12, what spare parts should i order when ordering the kit, i liked to order doubles of all spare parts that normally break in a collision. Again thank you kindly.
So far my 120LT seems to be super tough, but I keep in my spares box a set of upper and lower wishbones, steering knuckles, kingpins and side links but so far not broke anything so I would say Serpent got there maths right on the plastics.
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