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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-23-2011, 03:15 AM   #36811
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David Spashett, remember him?

well he's racing 12th again in the UK Nationals and has won the first event at the UK 2011/12, 12th Nationals on his return after being away since 2006



A Final Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFuRsxEsDrE

Last edited by CFR; 10-23-2011 at 03:40 AM.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:55 AM   #36812
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Default when to adjust timing?

I'm running a 1/12 with Revtech 13.5 boosted on a track that is 70x45 as of right now I'm ay 0 and coming of with a track temp of 121 on average. My gearing is 36 pinon 75 spur. A good starting point would help me out.
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:30 AM   #36813
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Just be aware that there is an alarming trend showing up with the RevTech motors in boost. They do very well with blinky and motor timing, but they're starting to let the magic smoke out when they get highly boosted like more conventional motors.

For a boosted Trinity product, many are moving back to the D3 and using the RevTech for blinky classes.
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:40 PM   #36814
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Man I wish I heard of this before I bought one. I've only had mine for two weeks and ran it only two race nights. It's way better than what I started with (losi 13.5)

Can anyone recommend a good setup with a TEKIN RS. Track is 70x45 with medium + grip with one long straight that goes into a swepper then everything else is mostly technical.

. I'm looking for speed controler setup recommendations. Boost/turbo/throttle profile.
. Gearing
. Timing on Revtech

Thanks for the help.
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:57 PM   #36815
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Oh god, a stint running offroad and all of the headache thereunto just makes me want to pound my 1/12 around the track and feel a real racecar again. Tenth in the A-main (there were only two mains) isn't worth the headache and new tires every two races.
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:19 PM   #36816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustWill75 View Post
Man I wish I heard of this before I bought one. I've only had mine for two weeks and ran it only two race nights. It's way better than what I started with (losi 13.5)

Can anyone recommend a good setup with a TEKIN RS. Track is 70x45 with medium + grip with one long straight that goes into a swepper then everything else is mostly technical.

. I'm looking for speed controler setup recommendations. Boost/turbo/throttle profile.
. Gearing
. Timing on Revtech

Thanks for the help.
For timing in the motor keep it at 0 when running boost, and don't go crazy with the ESC ramping, and you should be fine. I've only ran boosted in the WGT and it is insane fast; it has a lot of natural RPM so you don't need to run the same amount of boost as you would with the D3.

Keep an eye on temperature and it will be a great motor.
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:27 PM   #36817
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looking for opinions... Been in the game racing for 10 years and have ran everything from 1/8 on road to 1/10 2wd buggy, and im looking to playing on the rug a bit this winter in some 17.5 blinky 1S but I cant decide on a car. So Im looking for something that will be fairly easy to set up, fast, wont break my wallet. thanks in advance.
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:31 PM   #36818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
looking for opinions... Been in the game racing for 10 years and have ran everything from 1/8 on road to 1/10 2wd buggy, and im looking to playing on the rug a bit this winter in some 17.5 blinky 1S but I cant decide on a car. So Im looking for something that will be fairly easy to set up, fast, wont break my wallet. thanks in advance.
I think that the CRC Gen-XL is one of the cheaper cars, and may be on a sort of clearance now that the news of a new car is circulating. its plenty fast and durable, and easy to work on. Just be certain to get a Slapmaster thrust bearing for the rear diff as the kit doesn't come with one.
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:28 PM   #36819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
lm looking to playing on the rug a bit this winter in some 17.5 blinky 1S but I cant decide on a car. So Im looking for something that will be fairly easy to set up, fast, wont break my wallet. thanks in advance.
The cool thing about 12th scale, is that there are no BMW kits.

Every kit is cool, and has something to offer.
At TQ the majority of chassis are CRC & Team AE

HERE is a list of them all, with a bunch of setup and build info.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:54 PM   #36820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
looking for opinions... Been in the game racing for 10 years and have ran everything from 1/8 on road to 1/10 2wd buggy, and im looking to playing on the rug a bit this winter in some 17.5 blinky 1S but I cant decide on a car. So Im looking for something that will be fairly easy to set up, fast, wont break my wallet. thanks in advance.
Least costly = AE
Best quality = BMI

There are no bad cars on the market today, its really about which one appeals to your eye. I'm biased because I run them but I think that the BMI is very easy to setup, fast and durable, and works well on different surfaces. Also it does help if you get a car that others are running at your track so you can get help with issues and setup, 1/12 is a great class so enjoy.
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:05 PM   #36821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Least costly = AE
Not quite, CRC is cheaper.
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:20 PM   #36822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Least costly = AE
Best quality = BMI

There are no bad cars on the market today, its really about which one appeals to your eye. I'm biased because I run them but I think that the BMI is very easy to setup, fast and durable, and works well on different surfaces. Also it does help if you get a car that others are running at your track so you can get help with issues and setup, 1/12 is a great class so enjoy.
Why do you say that AE is the least costly? The CRC has the lowest purchase price from what I've seen. I'm going to get a new 1/12 soon. My LHS carries CRC, AE, TOP and maybe others. I was leaning toward CRC because of price but I'm open to any of them. I don't know much about the TOP cars. Anyone have any experience with them?
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:32 PM   #36823
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CRC offer a lower intro price due to the cost savings of some plastic parts, and an open pod design
They have all the upgrade parts, and if you need them ? the cost will be more or less the same as an R5.1

Stormer prices are as follows

Price:
$169.95
Carpet Knife Generation XL 1/12th On-Road Car Kit


Price:
$229.99
12R5.1 Factory Team 1/12 On-road Car Kit


Price:
$249.95
Copperhead Lipo Edition 1/12th Pan Car kit
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:01 PM   #36824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delawareguy View Post
Why do you say that AE is the least costly? The CRC has the lowest purchase price from what I've seen. I'm going to get a new 1/12 soon. My LHS carries CRC, AE, TOP and maybe others. I was leaning toward CRC because of price but I'm open to any of them. I don't know much about the TOP cars. Anyone have any experience with them?
I say that because as redbull pointed out by the time you get the quality parts to upgrade the bargin buy-in CRC kit you'll spend at or more what the AE costs. Yes you could do without the upgrades but I'm not a big fan of plastic parts, mabey thats just me. I have seen the TOP 1/12 but have'nt driven one, looks a nice bit but in reality all the 1/12 kits on the market can win with the right set-up and driver, thats why I said it really comes down to what looks good to you.
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:23 PM   #36825
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Got it. I've also heard that some kits require upgrade right out of the box. For example I've heard that the CRC kit would be better if the AE front end were installed. If that's true what kit needs the least amount of work out of the box?
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