R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-17-2011, 05:48 PM   #36781
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Looks interesting Wingman...might want to double check that the wheels fit on the front though...typically the inside hole is used on the steering block and sits inside the wheel.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2011, 11:10 PM   #36782
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 104
Default Brushless ESC/Motor Combination Recommendation?

Hi All,
I may have posted this question before, so forgive me...putting together a vintage Kyosho 1/12 and need to spend a few bucks on a brushless motor/esc combo to replace the old school Novak T1 & dead Kyosho motor. Any recommendations for a reasonably priced setup that will offer some good acceleration without too many unintentional donuts? Do the same rules apply, i.e., I used to run a 17-18T motor in this thing. I've been checking out the Havoc systems from Novak, but am not sure which one would be the best choice for this application. Any tips?

Thanks!
sundevil67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 12:35 AM   #36783
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sundevil67 View Post
Hi All,
I may have posted this question before, so forgive me...putting together a vintage Kyosho 1/12 and need to spend a few bucks on a brushless motor/esc combo to replace the old school Novak T1 & dead Kyosho motor. Any recommendations for a reasonably priced setup that will offer some good acceleration without too many unintentional donuts? Do the same rules apply, i.e., I used to run a 17-18T motor in this thing. I've been checking out the Havoc systems from Novak, but am not sure which one would be the best choice for this application. Any tips?

Thanks!
SpeedPassion Cirtix 17.5 combo with a TQ booster would serve you well.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 12:36 AM   #36784
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi guys, I was asking (a few pages back) what you thought about a front end that used extra long top arms, and what effect that would have on the car. Well, here's why I was asking:

Front end:



Full car:



Looking forward to running it at the first UK national this coming weekend, we'll see how it goes!

or

Cheers, Chris.
Great lookin' stuff Chris. Good luck!!
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 10:32 AM   #36785
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Thanks mate. Looks like I will have to use the larger sized front rims as the smaller ones (which I prefer) rub on the ballstud. Sure I could sort it out but it means drilling holes and rearranging where the servo sits and I dunno if i can be bothered with all that at the mo!! I will let you know how it goes at the weekend!! Cheers.
__________________
Sponsored by CML Distribution - http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 01:11 PM   #36786
Tech Champion
 
YR4Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 5,625
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default Looking for a good deal on tires

Where's the "I need to recoup my iiC costs" Tire sale?

I thought there would be plenty of people selling their left over supply of tires from the race but I haven't seen any in FS thread.

So are you 1/12 iiC'ers selling or are you gonna hoard them for the rest of the season?
YR4Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 01:13 PM   #36787
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,376
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Are you going to get a thrust bearing for the rear diff or just run the flange? It was the first thing I did to my Gen-XL, though it was easy for me as I had one that fit just lying around. In my limited experience it makes a diff much smoother and last longer.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 03:57 PM   #36788
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Will do eventually mate, they do make a whole bunch of differance!
__________________
Sponsored by CML Distribution - http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 02:59 PM   #36789
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,633
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

I need a good starting rollout and timing for a LRP 13.5 blinky on a 40x70ft carpet track. All I know is boosted.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 06:31 PM   #36790
Tech Regular
 
Applesauce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 419
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

What do you prefer to run a cell booster or a receiver pack?
If you use a booster which one and why?
If you use a receiver pack which one and why?

Thanks for your help.
Applesauce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 07:07 PM   #36791
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Applesauce View Post
What do you prefer to run a cell booster or a receiver pack?
If you use a booster which one and why?
If you use a receiver pack which one and why?

Thanks for your help.
I dont use either. My Hobbywing 1s has both a booster for 1s operation and a regulator for 2s
__________________
______________________________________________
Jason Deadman

I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 09:02 PM   #36792
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
I need a good starting rollout and timing for a LRP 13.5 blinky on a 40x70ft carpet track. All I know is boosted.
We run 88 roll with about 6 deg on a 90x45 indoor track.
That's with a Murfdogg motor.

For an LRPX12 4 dot, I would gear down a tooth.
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 09:23 PM   #36793
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,376
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
We run 88 roll with about 6 deg on a 90x45 indoor track.
That's with a Murfdogg motor.

For an LRPX12 4 dot, I would gear down a tooth.
4-dot means 27.5 degrees of overall timing, for blinky I remember my old manual suggests the 2-dot in 13.5, which knocks it back up to 37.5 degrees or the motors natural timing. Don't take this as gospel though.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 10:06 PM   #36794
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
4-dot means 27.5 degrees of overall timing, for blinky I remember my old manual suggests the 2-dot in 13.5, which knocks it back up to 37.5 degrees or the motors natural timing. Don't take this as gospel though.
Could be.
I'm far from an expert on gear, timing, rotor & roll setup for blinky classes.

If anyone saw my car at the iic, they can confirm this
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 06:05 AM   #36795
Tech Champion
 
Radio Active's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 6,994
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

And now for something completely different: 12th scale racing at Warners Bay in astroturf.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
__________________
Reigning NSW 4WD Group 20 Champion
Member: Maitland Radio Car Club (http://www.morcc.com.au)
twitter: @dvcotton
Australian 12th Scale hastag: #EP12AU
Radio Active is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:34 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0