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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-14-2011, 02:59 AM   #36751
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Can someone explain this rollout please

Thanks
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:48 AM   #36752
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Can someone explain this rollout please

Thanks
As i understand it rollout is how far the car travels with one revolution of the motor.
This is important as it helps to keep the motor in its workable and useable range. This keeps temperatures down prolongs the life of the motor and should keep the power drain on the batteries uniform and not like a thirsty camel.
It also helps with getting the right amount of drive for the track you are at. No point having a zippy point to point car when you have long straights and sweeping turns and vice versa.
To calculate rollout you need to know the tire diameter, pinion gear size and spur gear size plus something else that I cant remember.
check out this site for some more explaining.
http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?page_id=33
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:51 AM   #36753
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Originally Posted by Deepsouth View Post
As i understand it rollout is how far the car travels with one revolution of the motor.
This is important as it helps to keep the motor in its workable and useable range. This keeps temperatures down prolongs the life of the motor and should keep the power drain on the batteries uniform and not like a thirsty camel.
It also helps with getting the right amount of drive for the track you are at. No point having a zippy point to point car when you have long straights and sweeping turns and vice versa.
To calculate rollout you need to know the tire diameter, pinion gear size and spur gear size plus something else that I cant remember.
check out this site for some more explaining.
http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?page_id=33
So it's basically how you gear something?
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Old 10-14-2011, 04:06 AM   #36754
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So it's basically how you gear something?
Yes. But because we are using foam tyres that wear and change size. We have to change pinions as the tyres wear to keep the same rollout or gearing.
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Old 10-14-2011, 04:38 AM   #36755
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So it's basically how you gear something?
Yeah pretty much but its a bit more than gearing. Gearing gives you your final drive ratio only relative to the internal drive and gearing selected, as mentioned by jazz it does not take into account the diameter of the tires which can either make the motor work more or less. Big wheel more effort to get going and you will travel further with one rotation then with a smaller wheel. Gearing helps you drive those wheels round effectively but if you are travelling less distance while the motor is working more it defeats the purpose and you will be playing catchup to someone who is travelling further for each motor rotation although they may have smaller wheels or even larger wheels. Kinda adds another dimension of tuning.
Its kinda like riding a bike with gears. Its either having really easy gearing and pumping your legs frantically, but the guy with higher gearing is not only going to be going faster then you he is also working less. By changing tire size its easier for you to move a larger tire but you cannot go as fast while it harder for him to move the tire but once he's going he'll be faster. If that makes sense...it did in my head... hahah
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Old 10-14-2011, 04:43 AM   #36756
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Yeah pretty much but its a bit more than gearing. Gearing gives you your final drive ratio only relative to the internal drive and gearing selected, as mentioned by jazz it does not take into account the diameter of the tires which can either make the motor work more or less. Big wheel more effort to get going and you will travel further with one rotation then with a smaller wheel. Gearing helps you drive those wheels round effectively but if you are travelling less distance while the motor is working more it defeats the purpose and you will be playing catchup to someone who is travelling further for each motor rotation although they may have smaller wheels or even larger wheels. Kinda adds another dimension of tuning.

Thanks I understand. We didn't have a name for before
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Old 10-14-2011, 04:49 AM   #36757
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Hi Guys,
About to get the new serpent 120LT and noticed it doesn't come with a spur gear.
And which spur would you like them to put in the kit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deepsouth View Post
tires from 41-50
Tires bigger then 45mm, will chunk very easy I think, so don't use them to big...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Can someone explain this rollout please

Thanks
50 mm roll out means, that the car moves 50mm if the 1 motor does 1 rotation.
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Old 10-14-2011, 05:06 AM   #36758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deepsouth View Post
As i understand it rollout is how far the car travels with one revolution of the motor.
This is important as it helps to keep the motor in its workable and useable range. This keeps temperatures down prolongs the life of the motor and should keep the power drain on the batteries uniform and not like a thirsty camel.
It also helps with getting the right amount of drive for the track you are at. No point having a zippy point to point car when you have long straights and sweeping turns and vice versa.
To calculate rollout you need to know the tire diameter, pinion gear size and spur gear size plus something else that I cant remember.
check out this site for some more explaining.
http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?page_id=33
Thanks for the link

Yep, all down to tyre size, FDR is only of any use when the tyres are always the same size, so it's much easier to state rollout.

I really ought to update the article with all the smartphone apps you can get now to calculate it.

I use RCGears for Android.

Trev
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Old 10-14-2011, 05:47 AM   #36759
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And which spur would you like them to put in the kit?
A suitable serpent one? I know its hard to pick one gear as every track is different...

Tires bigger then 45mm, will chunk very easy I think, so don't use them to big...
[COLOR="rgb(244, 164, 96)"]Awesome thanks for that advice, such a noob at the 1/12th stuff....[/COLOR]

So excited cant wait to get one!
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Old 10-14-2011, 05:55 AM   #36760
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M7H I noticed too in the manual for the 120LT there are some rear damper rods. I have never seen anything like these before and was wondering how they work and how you can tune them with different weight oil. I think the manual says 15000cst?
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Old 10-14-2011, 05:58 AM   #36761
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
Thanks for the link

Yep, all down to tyre size, FDR is only of any use when the tyres are always the same size, so it's much easier to state rollout.

I really ought to update the article with all the smartphone apps you can get now to calculate it.

I use RCGears for Android.

Trev
Took me a sec to realise they are your charts
your charts helped me understand it as much as you can understand rollout Its much appreciated and is now on my xoom tablet so I can alter it at the track and get my required spur and pinion sizes.
I will check out RCgears thanks for the heads up
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Old 10-14-2011, 06:15 AM   #36762
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And which spur would you like them to put in the kit?
A suitable serpent one? I know its hard to pick one gear as every track is different...
I know what you mean, with a spur you can atleast finish the built. But these cars will be used for up to 3.5T mod racing as well as down to 17.5T, or even 21.5T stock.
So which spur to put in the kit then?.....

But really bigger then 100T is not possible, because then they will get larger in diameter then your rear tires....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deepsouth View Post
M7H I noticed too in the manual for the 120LT there are some rear damper rods. I have never seen anything like these before and was wondering how they work and how you can tune them with different weight oil. I think the manual says 15000cst?
Most cars are built with damper "tubes" nowadays.
Filling them with 15.000cst is easy. You just fill those slots with the silicon grease, and put them together.
If you want to know if you need harder or softer damping, just remove 1 tube, to get half the damping, and see how the car reacts on that, then you know which way to go.
I have 10.000 and 20.000 in my box (for my pro10 car), 10.000 left and 20.000 right is also 15.000 (just for testing the car reaction)....
I don't have the tubes yet in my S120, because I don't have the LT yet....
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:39 AM   #36763
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Just wanted to verify real quick.

The Kimbrough #113 servo saver is what I want to use with a JR Z3650, correct?
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:13 AM   #36764
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Just wanted to verify real quick.

The Kimbrough #113 servo saver is what I want to use with a JR Z3650, correct?
Yes. 23 Spline count. When using this servo saver on a JR3650, I usually find that I have to force it on. The fit is pretty tight. If you ever want to take it off, be very careful as the peices might seperate and you'll have an almost impossible time to get the spring back in.

The Kimbrough mid size will also work as it comes with a couple of adapters including the 23 spline.
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:25 AM   #36765
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Originally Posted by dontfeelcold View Post
I bought a spare complete diff (individual parts) for my Associatted 12r5.1 and it needs to be done up noticeably tighter to stop the diff from slipping compared to the one that came in the kit. Both diffs are built identically and I swapped a bunch of bits around and it turns out its the main axle that is causing the issue.

Is this common?

Will the Xray full Aluminium rear axle fit? Maybe with all of the Xray parts?
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...20Axle%20Shaft
The only way I can think of that it could be the main axle is if the diff washer was slipping on the axle. Most axles today are a D-ring or notched style diff to prevent this from happening. Other than that the only thing that would affect how much it is slipping is the diff balls. Maybe you have more diff balls in one than the other? Or maybe you put in a few that were smaller than the others so when the diff is tightened they really aren't doing anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Jazz View Post
Think you will find the Xray is metric and the Associated is Imperial.

I can lend you another rear axle if you need it this weekend. I only require you to pull over and let me pass in the races lol
The Xray uses a standard 1/4" axle like most pan cars out there. It might work but I don't know if the hub spacing is correct for other cars.
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