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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-13-2011, 08:00 PM   #36736
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Go HERE for tons of info about 12th scale building, setup and such.
One of the many links on that page is to gearchart.com, the ultimate tool for rollout calculation.

That's a good size track, for 13.5 no boost, you might want to start at around 90+mm roll.

72T to 78t spurs should be good for what you are doing.
Lots of info in how to calculate rollout but how is the rollout determined. In other words how do you know that your track requires a specific rollout for the intended motor? Is there a method to figure this or is ths just an empirical number?

In all my years of RC racing, gearing has always been "socially engineered" at the track. However, it would be nice to know how to determine it on my own.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:02 PM   #36737
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Now that I think about it, with that Cirtix you may need to be over 100mm roll.
I think that's about the same size track from the ROAR nat's in Jersey this year, and they ran 13.5 blinky.
So yes, 72 spur would be good.

We were running 72t spur x 58-60t pinion at the iic race last week with 17.5 blinky

Most of the 12th scale setup is tires, and paying attention to the little things on the car, like toe, camber, and tires coming unglued around the edges.
http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-42.8...z=19&t=h&hl=en

Hopefully that will work to give you an idea of the track.
Ok cool thanks heaps for that i'll start looking now for some big spurs in preparation. 72-58/60 hmmm maybe 100 is not so bad...
If I upgraded the cirtix to an sxx or rs pro could I get away with less rollout?
Still trying to get my head around the whole esc thing with 1s as well. I've been away for a few years and ALOT has changed. Lipos had just been made available.
Would i be better off going with a booster and the RS for such a big track to ensure easy running? I noticed the TQ booster comes highly recommended...
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:10 PM   #36738
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Lots of info in how to calculate rollout but how is the rollout determined. In other words how do you know that your track requires a specific rollout for the intended motor? Is there a method to figure this or is ths just an empirical number?

In all my years of RC racing, gearing has always been "socially engineered" at the track. However, it would be nice to know how to determine it on my own.
There is no real science to determining what roll out should be. Typically people just take an educated guess and try that. From there they go up a bit and down a bit and watch what happens to the lap times and keep adjusting until either your times no longer get better or even start to get worse. Every track is different in size, layout, and grip...so there is no formula out there that you can use to plug in the variables and come up with a roll out.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:11 PM   #36739
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Originally Posted by Deepsouth View Post
http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-42.8...z=19&t=h&hl=en

Hopefully that will work to give you an idea of the track.
Ok cool thanks heaps for that i'll start looking now for some big spurs in preparation. 72-58/60 hmmm maybe 100 is not so bad...
If I upgraded the cirtix to an sxx or rs pro could I get away with less rollout?
Still trying to get my head around the whole esc thing with 1s as well. I've been away for a few years and ALOT has changed. Lipos had just been made available.
Would i be better off going with a booster and the RS for such a big track to ensure easy running? I noticed the TQ booster comes highly recommended...
A Tekin RS with a TQ booster is probably the fastest setup for 1s racing.
However, the LRPSXXSS is much easier to work with, just 2 buttons, and no pc mapping required.

There are many other options for boosted esc's, but those are the only 2 I have experience with, and are by far the most popular at the races.

Based on 17.5 boost vs: blinky, you're looking at a 20-30mm roll difference.
I would imagine that would carry over to 13.5 as well.

Deepsouth indeed
Tasmania, wow !
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:12 PM   #36740
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Lots of info in how to calculate rollout but how is the rollout determined. In other words how do you know that your track requires a specific rollout for the intended motor? Is there a method to figure this or is ths just an empirical number?

In all my years of RC racing, gearing has always been "socially engineered" at the track. However, it would be nice to know how to determine it on my own.
+1

82 spur and 60 pinion gives a range from 94-114 with tires from 41-50 which is pretty close to where we need to be. Might start with that as it gives me some room to play with tire diameter.
Thanks ericf

EDIT: Just searched for spurs gonna need to be 81 or 83 cant seem to find an 82. Recommendations on spur brands. I can get serpent ( obvious choice being its going on a s120lt) or associated or xray and kimborough. I read somewhere about having lots of holes for the balls...???
I think i'll lash out and go the sxx, save me having to much around and charge the booster as well.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:21 PM   #36741
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The more diff balls you can use the less you have to tighten the diff to get the same action. This results in a smoother diff that lasts longer. CRC has a new spur gear that uses a smaller diff ball to get more in the same area and it works quite well. You will have to add spacers to that side of the axle though to keep the back end centered properly. Xenon makes a spur gear now that has as many diff balls but still uses the standard 1/8th diff balls. I've tried the CRC ones and like them a lot but picked up some of the Xenon ones at the IIC to give a try as well.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:25 PM   #36742
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+1

82 spur and 60 pinion gives a range from 94-114 with tires from 41-50 which is pretty close to where we need to be. Might start with that as it gives me some room to play with tire diameter.
Thanks ericf

EDIT: Just searched for spurs gonna need to be 81 or 83 cant seem to find an 82. Recommendations on spur brands. I can get serpent ( obvious choice being its going on a s120lt) or associated or xray and kimborough. I read somewhere about having lots of holes for the balls...???
I think i'll lash out and go the sxx, save me having to much around and charge the booster as well.
If it's LRP for boosted, make sure you go with the Stock Spec, it's the only one that has enough boost for stock spec motors, not the TC, not the comp.

And I'm not sure you can fit spurs in the 80's with pinions in the 50-60's
That's why we have to run the smaller spurs when running higher roll.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:28 PM   #36743
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I saw the xenon ones too will have a look.
Apparently the kit comes with 8 balls so the muchmore xray ones are out as they only have 6 holes it seems.
Yeah redbull WAAAAYY down south, I work only an hour from the most southern point in tasmania so the name is fitting
Thanks heaps for the advice, i've learnt more in the past 1hr then i've done the past few weeks, it all makes much more sense, now if I can just work out the rule to get an idea of rollout based on a specific track type. Maybe for every 10 meters/30 feet of straight = 30mm of rollout? or 1ft = 1mm of rollout per straight??
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:33 PM   #36744
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Originally Posted by Deepsouth View Post
+1

82 spur and 60 pinion gives a range from 94-114 with tires from 41-50 which is pretty close to where we need to be. Might start with that as it gives me some room to play with tire diameter.
Thanks ericf

EDIT: Just searched for spurs gonna need to be 81 or 83 cant seem to find an 82. Recommendations on spur brands. I can get serpent ( obvious choice being its going on a s120lt) or associated or xray and kimborough. I read somewhere about having lots of holes for the balls...???
I think i'll lash out and go the sxx, save me having to much around and charge the booster as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deepsouth View Post
I saw the xenon ones too will have a look.
Apparently the kit comes with 8 balls so the muchmore xray ones are out as they only have 6 holes it seems.
Yeah redbull WAAAAYY down south, I work only an hour from the most southern point in tasmania so the name is fitting
Thanks heaps for the advice, i've learnt more in the past 1hr then i've done the past few weeks, it all makes much more sense, now if I can just work out the rule to get an idea of rollout based on a specific track type. Maybe for every 10 meters/30 feet of straight = 30mm of rollout? or 1ft = 1mm of rollout per straight??
The Xenon gears are the best I've seen to date.

When you figure out the rollout formula for all tracks, please post it here
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:41 PM   #36745
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
If it's LRP for boosted, make sure you go with the Stock Spec, it's the only one that has enough boost for stock spec motors, not the TC, not the comp.

And I'm not sure you can fit spurs in the 80's with pinions in the 50-60's
That's why we have to run the smaller spurs when running higher roll.
Haha go figure, i'll go back to the 72 spur with a 58-60 pinion then. It will be a good start and I can see if i'm winding out and go from there.
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Old 10-13-2011, 10:51 PM   #36746
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Haha go figure, i'll go back to the 72 spur with a 58-60 pinion then. It will be a good start and I can see if i'm winding out and go from there.
Note: I did say at my track...
Also, pinion grears are an investment. buy them all from 35-60 and you'll eventually find the right gear for where your racing. multiple sizes of spur are good to have around as well. PRS make a 82, Kimbrough spur gears go from a 76 and up by 4 teeth at a time.
E
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:55 PM   #36747
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Is it better to run a novak smart boost or a receiver pack? If a receiver pack what brand and part number. i run a tekin rs if that helps or is there a better speed controll to run in 1/12 scale ?
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:29 AM   #36748
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Is it better to run a novak smart boost or a receiver pack? If a receiver pack what brand and part number. i run a tekin rs if that helps or is there a better speed controll to run in 1/12 scale ?
Hey mate, apparently running a rx pack means steadier and more reliable power to the rx throughout the race.
I have been tossing up and it seems that either you run no pack with an sxx or run a pack with the RS. Redbull above if you read the thread noted that the rs with pack is much faster with boost.
I'm going to go with the sxx no rx pack just to save the hassle of charging the rx pack.
TQ cells are meant to have the best rx packs out there for 1s http://www.tqcells.com/
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:38 AM   #36749
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I bought a spare complete diff (individual parts) for my Associatted 12r5.1 and it needs to be done up noticeably tighter to stop the diff from slipping compared to the one that came in the kit. Both diffs are built identically and I swapped a bunch of bits around and it turns out its the main axle that is causing the issue.

Is this common?

Will the Xray full Aluminium rear axle fit? Maybe with all of the Xray parts?
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...20Axle%20Shaft
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:50 AM   #36750
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Originally Posted by dontfeelcold View Post
I bought a spare complete diff (individual parts) for my Associatted 12r5.1 and it needs to be done up noticeably tighter to stop the diff from slipping compared to the one that came in the kit. Both diffs are built identically and I swapped a bunch of bits around and it turns out its the main axle that is causing the issue.

Is this common?

Will the Xray full Aluminium rear axle fit? Maybe with all of the Xray parts?
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...20Axle%20Shaft
Think you will find the Xray is metric and the Associated is Imperial.

I can lend you another rear axle if you need it this weekend. I only require you to pull over and let me pass in the races lol
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