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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-18-2003, 02:27 PM   #3661
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Quote:
Originally posted by Graphitedust
CypressMidWest: PERFECT!!!!!! Thank You!!! Are those pictures or do you actually have those cars? There great! I checked those pictures out at 8am and they had already been looked at 21 times! I think that others on this thread are checking out the old stuff too!

Rice98W: Thank you! I'll give it a try.
Those wre actually pulled from a German or Austrian site. The link can be found in the 12thscale.com forums mentioned above.
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Old 08-18-2003, 02:30 PM   #3662
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Quote:
Originally posted by ECHOLogic
Any news on the new Trinity 1/12?

??? Has anyone heard of a TQ Eagle from years past?? Like to see a pic if you have.
I actually used to run Eagles around 14-15 years ago. My cars are long gone, and I don't believe I have any shots of just the Chassis. They were made in Lima, OH, so they were obviously pretty popular around here. It's still THE COOLEST LOOKING 12TH SCALE EVER!!!
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Old 08-19-2003, 09:37 AM   #3663
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Well I figure that my question hasn't been answered by now for 1 of 2 reasons.....

1) nobody on here has the guts to run their 1/12th cars on Asphalt

2) being that 75% of the readers are speedmerchant owners, they won't reply because the car sux on asphalt..... J/K

Maybe it got shuffled so fst nobody got to read it.... so here goes agian...

Which is better on asphalt CRC knife or Speedmerchant REV.3..... please give a reply with why..

Thanks!!
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Old 08-19-2003, 09:43 AM   #3664
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I know of a TQ Eagle in captivity. I'll get a picture of it and post it later in the week.
How about a picture of a Flying Dutchman. Does anyone have one of those?
Also, I'd like to know if any of the 1/12 TRC Lynx cars ever made it to the public or was it only a "team" car?
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Old 08-19-2003, 09:44 AM   #3665
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Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
Well I figure that my question hasn't been answered by now for 1 of 2 reasons.....

1) nobody on here has the guts to run their 1/12th cars on Asphalt

2) being that 75% of the readers are speedmerchant owners, they won't reply because the car sux on asphalt..... J/K

Maybe it got shuffled so fst nobody got to read it.... so here goes agian...

Which is better on asphalt CRC knife or Speedmerchant REV.3..... please give a reply with why..

Thanks!!
The will both work about the same. Their suspension geometry is not that different. Just figure out which car you like better and buy it.
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Old 08-19-2003, 10:13 AM   #3666
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Quote:
Originally posted by David Root
I have never broken anything except many bumpers...

Expierment with a stiffer center spring...

I have never broken the rear ball or side links.

Most parts are replaceable with 12L parts anyhow.
thanks for the good news my car has the kydex (?) front bumper and it was a little bent after a day of running. i was thinking of putting double bumpers (one on top of the other held by longer screws or CA'd together) do you think this will prevent a damaged front bumper or is the added weight not worth it?

nice to know that the rear suspension parts will hold up. the main reason i switched to CRC from an RC12L3 is the countless t-plates i destroyed i dont know how i do it, i even wreck them at slight taps (well, maybe it was already cracked from a previous hard tap )

i also kept in mind that it shares most parts, particularly the front suspension, with the RC12 and this is a big deal for me since the carpet track where i run has lots of RC12 parts, but the CRC dealer is much farther from where i race.

thanks again for the info and i hope to try out other setups tom re. the stiffer spring, i am running a silver assoc. spring. i was using a black spring earlier but i think that was softer. i may try the blue spring tom (i think this is even stiffer than the silver spring.)
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Old 08-19-2003, 10:32 AM   #3667
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Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Too bad the first ever "BIG" 1/12th race was scrapped!! Grrrrrrr!!!
My shedule is clear on Wednesday!! See you at Rockwell??
yup, electric races are 1/10 only. unfortunately, i cant join or even watch you guys race, i have somewhere else to go (well, my girlfriend has somewhere else to go and i was "ordered" to go with her )

ill try to contact BDC tomorrow. if i dont have anything to do in the afternoon, ill be there before 3PM (color-coding ) and ill stay til 8pm. ill text you to confirm. hope to run 1/12 with you guys i was there last sun and i was all alone
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Old 08-19-2003, 10:42 AM   #3668
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Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
Well I figure that my question hasn't been answered by now for 1 of 2 reasons.....

1) nobody on here has the guts to run their 1/12th cars on Asphalt

2) being that 75% of the readers are speedmerchant owners, they won't reply because the car sux on asphalt..... J/K

Maybe it got shuffled so fst nobody got to read it.... so here goes agian...

Which is better on asphalt CRC knife or Speedmerchant REV.3..... please give a reply with why..

Thanks!!
Rev.3......

Slightly longer wheelbase, batteries can be positioned further towards the rear, Should be a little better on asphalt.
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Old 08-19-2003, 11:28 AM   #3669
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CRC or Speedmerchant for aspault?

they may run well, but they are both not suitable for aspault.

here in my town, there are aspault track but no carpet tracks at all.

the crc car is so much praised for its T-BARless design and tweak springs, eventually I bought one to try it out, i got one ship from the USA to switzerland.

with so much anticipation with the claimed performance, I assembled it very carefully, after a few runs I realised it is not suitable for aspault bacause the front springs are too hard , the motor POD is too WIDE , too much roll will result the motor pod side scrubbing the ground, the bottom screw of the pivot ball will loosen thus the whole set up will be out of shape,

the car is so fragile, the left and right balance /tweak is only supported by 2 pivot balls and the whole rear end is only supported by 1 screw.

I 'd rather have a t-bar to break than to buy new motorpods.

the pivot ball bottom screw are so odd sized and short if I lose 1 , I have no idea to find a replacement.

12th scale is supposed to be as simple as light/possible,
damper tubes tweak springs are unnecessary, see how world champion Masami won the last ifmar world with a simple associated.
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Old 08-19-2003, 01:38 PM   #3670
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At the Asphalt Nats in North Carolina the Speedmerchant would've won yet another National Championship had a Marshall not Stomped on Mo Denton's car. Only one "true" T-bar car could even keep up with Mo, and that was your National Champion Mike Dunnigan. I've run the original CarpetKnife on asphalt nad found it to be WAY better than the T-bar car I'd run previously. I never had any problems with the pod plate rubbing the ground, as long as I maintained adequate ride height, and ran a center spring of appropriate tension to support the car.
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Old 08-19-2003, 01:59 PM   #3671
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Quote:
Originally posted by dandyspashett
12th scale is supposed to be as simple as light/possible,
damper tubes tweak springs are unnecessary, see how world champion Masami won the last ifmar world with a simple associated.
Masami more than likely would've won the worlds with a 12i. The T-bar is a fabulous concept if you don't mind changing it every three runs so the car will remain consistent, and you don't mind a car that's roll stiffness is only adjustable in unison with it's forward traction in two less than ideal increments as dictated by the manufacturer. Plus on a 12L you can't even adjust lateral dampening without affect fore and aft dampening. It was a great design in 1985, but it's a little dated now.
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Old 08-19-2003, 03:13 PM   #3672
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How about spring cars in Mod racing?
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Old 08-19-2003, 04:29 PM   #3673
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I dunno about the rest of em, but I run my carpet knife on asfault in practice. No one to race, but it is really hooked with purple front and pink rears. Red or copper spring in the center, 30 in the shock, white side springs. I can only wish my 10L could be as hooked up. This thing rips especially with a 13X2 in it.

I can't speak for a 1/12 T-bar car because I don't have one.

I have a 1/10 spring car, and am getting a 1/10 T-Bar car this week and will race it sunday. So far with the spring car I have found side shock oil in 5 wt incraments makes a HUGE difference in how it reacts. I adjust the center spring for rear traction because it is hard to find. Whith the CK I adjust the center spring for more or less high speed steering because traction is not a problem.

I would love to see a bunch of 1/12 show up at the parking lot race, I would have a blast. The guys I know don't race them becuase they don't want to scratch the chasis and are afraid of breaking them. I bought it to run!!

I keep a spare bumper all the time, they do break a lot, but think of what you are NOT breaking when the bumper does.

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Old 08-19-2003, 05:23 PM   #3674
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dandy- I dont know what you are talking about in reference to the motor pod, since it isnt too wide (if it was any narrower the motor would not be able to be installed and removed from it).

as far as the screws... they standard 4-40, which is the normal screw size in the US (its the rest of the world that is crazy, they should all suit us and convert to standard from their silly metric sizes ) however for some reason CRC uses philips head screws that dont have a large enough screw head and thus during contact with other objects they can go through the graphite chassis and crack it.

as far as bumpers are concerned, they are absolutlely useless, if your car is pushing and is underweight maybe the extra ballast would help, but thats about it. in a front end impact the body absorbs most of the impact in a 12th scale. when you hit hard at an angle, the suspenion and tire normally take the rest of the hit, however if you break an arm you deserved too, since its very very rare, and your chassis probably would have cracked from the screwing pushing back on it from the bumper. in a dead on frontal impact the chassis is fine.

12th scales are not gen. 1 TC3's, they will take a hit. if you crack a chassis its because you didnt prep it correclty, and most of the time it can be repaired with CA and vicegrips. if you break an arm, its probably a good thing, since it takes alot of force, and something else would have problem probably alot more espensive if you hadnt.

the kydex bumper will automatically stuff your car into the wall if it touches it, unlike a lexan body that will bend and only slightly redirect your car.

I have run with bumpers in the past, but i have realized the error of my previous ways....
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Old 08-19-2003, 06:20 PM   #3675
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
At the Asphalt Nats in North Carolina the Speedmerchant would've won yet another National Championship had a Marshall not Stomped on Mo Denton's car. Only one "true" T-bar car could even keep up with Mo, and that was your National Champion Mike Dunnigan. I've run the original CarpetKnife on asphalt nad found it to be WAY better than the T-bar car I'd run previously. I never had any problems with the pod plate rubbing the ground, as long as I maintained adequate ride height, and ran a center spring of appropriate tension to support the car.
CypressMidWest - Actually you are wrong. Billy Spence had the fastest car of the weekend. It was a 12L3 with a t-bar and damper discs. His lap times in qualifying were easily 1/2 second a lap faster then Mo's. I guess a 1985 design can still work good.
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