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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-12-2011, 07:42 PM   #36721
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The Xceed Ennetti tires generally have less grip for the same shore rating. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. I've only had success using the Carbon Black wheels, the light ones will not take a hit. Once in a heat, I broke the edges of 3 out of 4 on the car. To date I have not broken a black wheel. On our track, low to medium grip, my Serpent 120L likes Parma yellow rears and Ennetti 35 fronts.
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Old 10-13-2011, 09:23 AM   #36722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
imo, for 1s native performance and support, you can't beat the LRP series.
Ditto for Tekin, except you will need to add a booster, it's a one time installation, which you will forget is even there in time.
The TQ booster from Canada is what I would recommend for the Tekin.
Of course for the Tekin, you will need the Hotwire to load the latest version.

For a 24' X 36' track, 17.5 blinky will be plenty quick enough
Great info! we are leaning towards lrp...BUT
we found novak havok pro 1s 17.5 systems for $159.00 complete.....
they ARE discontinued and i'm sure not a good as the lrp but at less than 1/2 the $$$ its tempting.
Gimme a reason to NOT buy it, do the have a habit of letting out the magic smoke?

We dont have a problem with spending the $$ on the good stuff but we are mostly 99.9% of the time racing as our group, not going to races that are organised so its good if we all have the same system unless its a real POS
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Old 10-13-2011, 09:59 AM   #36723
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I have been using the Havok 1S in 17.5 blinky class for about a year now without issue.
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Old 10-13-2011, 10:07 AM   #36724
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Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
Great info! we are leaning towards lrp...BUT
we found novak havok pro 1s 17.5 systems for $159.00 complete.....
they ARE discontinued and i'm sure not a good as the lrp but at less than 1/2 the $$$ its tempting.
Gimme a reason to NOT buy it, do the have a habit of letting out the magic smoke?

We dont have a problem with spending the $$ on the good stuff but we are mostly 99.9% of the time racing as our group, not going to races that are organised so its good if we all have the same system unless its a real POS
If you can save money, thats great. I'm all in favor of that.

However, here's the flip side, if for whatever reason somewhere in the future your group decide to race something else that requires 2s lipos, with the LRP you're covered; with the 1s only Havoc, your stuck. Yes its hedging your bet and hopefully your group will like 1/12 and will never consider anything else.
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:20 AM   #36725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
Great info! we are leaning towards lrp...BUT
we found novak havok pro 1s 17.5 systems for $159.00 complete.....
they ARE discontinued and i'm sure not a good as the lrp but at less than 1/2 the $$$ its tempting.
Gimme a reason to NOT buy it, do the have a habit of letting out the magic smoke?

We dont have a problem with spending the $$ on the good stuff but we are mostly 99.9% of the time racing as our group, not going to races that are organised so its good if we all have the same system unless its a real POS
The fact that the system you are looking to buy has been discontinued, should send up a red flag.
Novak are not now, nor have ever been a major player in the 1s competition market, for what ever reason ?
Perhaps there's far more to gain in the mainstream market, but that's pure speculation on my part.

I have no reason to think the Havok would be problematic, but it wouldn't be my 1st choice.
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Last edited by RedBullFiXX; 10-13-2011 at 11:41 AM. Reason: I can't speel
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:26 AM   #36726
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Thanks for the good opinions on the Havoc 1s.. the fact that its 1s only isnt an issue we have 3 or 4 2s systems in play already.
the fact that its discontinued does raise an eyebrow but an earlier poster said his is fine...

Its a $160.00 experiment. if we get deep into 1/12 and want to get more serious with the GOOD stuff it should still be a good enough system for a back up car.
Thanks for the 2Cents worth guys and if anyone has another opinion im still listening.
now to figure rollout for our little track and get a range of pinion opinions...
these we shall glean from reading more pages of this thread.
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:29 AM   #36727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
Great info! we are leaning towards lrp...BUT
we found novak havok pro 1s 17.5 systems for $159.00 complete.....
they ARE discontinued and i'm sure not a good as the lrp but at less than 1/2 the $$$ its tempting.
Gimme a reason to NOT buy it, do the have a habit of letting out the magic smoke?

We dont have a problem with spending the $$ on the good stuff but we are mostly 99.9% of the time racing as our group, not going to races that are organised so its good if we all have the same system unless its a real POS
I went down the same road you're looking at, about a year ago. Word of advice from someone who's been there, done that....DON'T!

Novak never has been a major player in 1S. The feel of their speedos just isn't up to par with everyone else.

If you buy the Novak, you're stuck with it. There is no secondary market for used Novak 1S equipment other than landfill ballast.

If you buy better quality, and better suitability and decide that you DON'T like it, chances are almost 100% that you'll be able to sell it quickly without taking a significant knock in the wallet.

Oh, and better stuff will help you unlock the potential and fun of 12th. NEVER regretted buying good batteries, good motors, and good ESCs. But I do regret the orange stuff.....

IMHO, even used first line equipment would be a better choice.
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Old 10-13-2011, 05:33 PM   #36728
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
I went down the same road you're looking at, about a year ago. Word of advice from someone who's been there, done that....DON'T!

Novak never has been a major player in 1S. The feel of their speedos just isn't up to par with everyone else.

If you buy the Novak, you're stuck with it. There is no secondary market for used Novak 1S equipment other than landfill ballast.

If you buy better quality, and better suitability and decide that you DON'T like it, chances are almost 100% that you'll be able to sell it quickly without taking a significant knock in the wallet.

Oh, and better stuff will help you unlock the potential and fun of 12th. NEVER regretted buying good batteries, good motors, and good ESCs. But I do regret the orange stuff.....

IMHO, even used first line equipment would be a better choice.
Thank you for your humble opinion andits noted... we COULD start some sort of wild A$$ 1s dragracing or something but ya its landfill if its not getting used but still half the $$$ of a LRP setup. but i really want a murfdogg just cuz its gotta good reputation.... well not really i just like the colour lolol
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Old 10-13-2011, 05:39 PM   #36729
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we have been down the chinese road both for batts and esc's and motors and while some have been trouble free, some have been problems and theres just nothing like going for a drive to play with your toys and having to pack up and go home to your computer to start ordering new stuff and hoping it comes in time that you dont miss ANOTHER race day the following week...
we put a lot of miles on these things and wore 4 or 5 sets of foams completely off our MRS4's last year so reliability is important. With 1/12 scale smalll things like "feel" have gotta be important too as one little twitch can be bad ( and thats just the guy on the radio).

Hmmmm LRP.....Hmmmmm
i think possibly so
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:07 PM   #36730
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Hi Guys,
About to get the new serpent 120LT and noticed it doesn't come with a spur gear.
Being new to the 1/12th scale arena I have no idea how to work out what my spur gear starting point should be.
I've searched and it seems that most are around the 96 tooth size.
I've got a rollout chart that has 88 96 and 100 spur gears on it. Should I start with these?
I also have no idea how to work out my rollout as I have no idea what it should be and also as far as I know no-one runs 12th at the local track.
I've done some measurements on google earth and the main straight is about 40 meters or 120ft. The track line then is pretty much up to me but there are some technical corners with one or two sweeping corners and then a few hair pins as well.
I'll be running a speed passion cirtix and 13.5 turn v3 ultra sportsman.
Initially it'll be stock and then as I get better i'll mod it up and might upgrade to the gt speedy.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:23 PM   #36731
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Originally Posted by Deepsouth View Post
Hi Guys,
About to get the new serpent 120LT and noticed it doesn't come with a spur gear.
Being new to the 1/12th scale arena I have no idea how to work out what my spur gear starting point should be.
I've searched and it seems that most are around the 96 tooth size.
I've got a rollout chart that has 88 96 and 100 spur gears on it. Should I start with these?
I also have no idea how to work out my rollout as I have no idea what it should be and also as far as I know no-one runs 12th at the local track.
I've done some measurements on google earth and the main straight is about 40 meters or 120ft. The track line then is pretty much up to me but there are some technical corners with one or two sweeping corners and then a few hair pins as well.
I'll be running a speed passion cirtix and 13.5 turn v3 ultra sportsman.
Initially it'll be stock and then as I get better i'll mod it up and might upgrade to the gt speedy.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Go HERE for tons of info about 12th scale building, setup and such.
One of the many links on that page is to gearchart.com, the ultimate tool for rollout calculation.

That's a good size track, for 13.5 no boost, you might want to start at around 90+mm roll.

72T to 78t spurs should be good for what you are doing.
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:38 PM   #36732
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Hi Redbull,
Thanks for the link, i've read through a fair bit there already trying to get my head around the setup of 12scale cars.
Its easier but harder than tc it would seem.
90mm rollout? Wow that heaps! according to the gear chart i'd need a pinion of more than 40 tooth with a spur of 72 and tire diameter of 50mm...
You say its a big track for a 13.5 no boost, should i run boost to get the most out of the car?



This is the track is pretty good with a TC
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:46 PM   #36733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deepsouth View Post
Hi Redbull,
Thanks for the link, i've read through a fair bit there already trying to get my head around the setup of 12scale cars.
Its easier but harder than tc it would seem.
90mm rollout? Wow that heaps! according to the gear chart i'd need a pinion of more than 40 tooth with a spur of 72 and tire diameter of 50mm...
You say its a big track for a 13.5 no boost, should i run boost to get the most out of the car?



This is the track is pretty good with a TC
Now that I think about it, with that Cirtix you may need to be over 100mm roll.
I think that's about the same size track from the ROAR nat's in Jersey this year, and they ran 13.5 blinky.
So yes, 72 spur would be good.

We were running 72t spur x 58-60t pinion at the iic race last week with 17.5 blinky

Most of the 12th scale setup is tires, and paying attention to the little things on the car, like toe, camber, and tires coming unglued around the edges.
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:52 PM   #36734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deepsouth View Post
Hi Redbull,
Thanks for the link, i've read through a fair bit there already trying to get my head around the setup of 12scale cars.
Its easier but harder than tc it would seem.
90mm rollout? Wow that heaps! according to the gear chart i'd need a pinion of more than 40 tooth with a spur of 72 and tire diameter of 50mm...
You say its a big track for a 13.5 no boost, should i run boost to get the most out of the car?



This is the track is pretty good with a TC
At my track 13.5 boost I find that using a spur in low 80's work best. 76 and smaller is better suited for 17.5 gearing.
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:57 PM   #36735
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At my track 13.5 boost I find that using a spur in low 80's work best. 76 and smaller is better suited for 17.5 gearing.
E
+1
Except 13.5 & 17.5 blinky are not too far off on roll.
We saw that last week at the iic
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