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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-10-2011, 10:23 AM   #36691
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Default HELP,PLEASE

I am totally new to 1/12,I cant figure out why my car lifts 1 rear wheel when turning to the left. I have tried everything i know of,loose wiring(TQ 16ga) loose sensor wire,Ive tried messing with diff tensions(setting),stiffer/softer side springs,stiffer side shock oils.The tires are not chunked. I dont understand it and ive got a big race coming up next weekend,If anybody could help me i would/will totally appreciate it PLEASE , Thanks in advance.The car is an associated 12r5.1 with lipo conversion
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:29 AM   #36692
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If it's just when turning left, it's probably tweak or balance.
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:38 AM   #36693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
Exactly. Nice pics!
So I bought:

4PL with small receiver
Mylaps transponder
Jaco magenta's Ft/Rr (But ft set doesn't have sunken in bearing deal hence old ones but I think they'll work fine with some spacing)
Top Rebel (this weekend)

Then:

Futaba S9650 servo
Speed Pashion speedo that I think you have? (Carbon fiber color)
Protoform body AMR-12
DuraTrax Onyx 245 AC/DC dual charger

Not sure what motor or batteries maybe Murf-dogg (I would like to support someone local but not sure that will happen though)

I'm closing in ...lol

Last edited by Infinite 12th; 10-10-2011 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:03 AM   #36694
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I have a bunch of downwards angle which I can get rid most of my just moving the servo up a hole on the mount. But I do not get any bump steer at all with the outside tire when compressing the suspension.

here are some more shots. I don't have enough light here but here you go
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:04 AM   #36695
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One of my ESCs is an EX 2.1 in blue. I'm still figuring out the programming, but I'm getting close. Murfdogg does good work. Despite what you may read, batteries seem to be fairly equal. Fast guys at my track use CRC, Reedy, Intellect, Revtech, but none seems to have extra oomph.
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:07 AM   #36696
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From those pics, it looks like a good set up. Take it to the track and try it.
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:18 AM   #36697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
One of my ESCs is an EX 2.1 in blue. I'm still figuring out the programming, but I'm getting close. Murfdogg does good work. Despite what you may read, batteries seem to be fairly equal. Fast guys at my track use CRC, Reedy, Intellect, Revtech, but none seems to have extra oomph.
I don't think they have any 1cells in stock at Norcal so I guess I'll have to order some. Kinda like the 6350 65c revtech orange ones

With motor I guess somewhere between 3.5 and 4.5

You remember how fast I like em

I have no clue what to gear mod brushless though

Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
From those pics, it looks like a good set up. Take it to the track and try it.
I second that looks good enough
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:46 AM   #36698
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We don't have a mod class, but I have heard rollouts run in the 35 to 38 range. Once in a while BK throws a mod in his, but he generally runs a 6.5 or so then uses stock programming to boost it if he's not fast enough. Heat is always the limiter.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:19 PM   #36699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Hey all you 1/12 gurus, I am modding my old GenX cause I can to have the steering setup similar to the genXL where the steering links mount inside on the servo saver and I am just playing with angles of the links now

What is the best angle for the links to be at (at center) for the best steering.

This is what I have currently after mounting the Servo in it's new location.




I can move the servo for and aft. I can get close to parallel if I need to but just looking for a good starting point and also what do different angles do.

the Servo is mounted on the angles mounts.
The specific term that applies to what you are asking about is Ackerman.

When you move your servo forward, you get less Ackerman.

When you move your servo back to where the rods are straight across, you get more Ackerman.

My experience (not in 1/12) when I had less Ackerman, the car was more twitchy. With more Ackerman the car was more stable.

Hope that helps for you to decide how you want to tune your car to your liking.
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:05 AM   #36700
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Has anybody tried Hobbywings XERUN Blue Brushless 120A ESC (1S Lipo Supported) SL286 for 1/12 1-cell racing???
thanks
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:48 AM   #36701
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Originally Posted by idbdoug View Post
Has anybody tried Hobbywings XERUN Blue Brushless 120A ESC (1S Lipo Supported) SL286 for 1/12 1-cell racing???
thanks
idbdoug
One of my race friends had one in his WGT and got another for his 1/12. It was a very tight fit on the chassis due to its size. The thing is bigger than the RS and RX pack combined, weighs about as much and is a bit taller too.

He only got in one race using the WGT last year but it seemed to work well. Maybe it's OK for the price but then you need to drop another $20 or so for the programming box.
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:52 PM   #36702
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Originally Posted by idbdoug View Post
Has anybody tried Hobbywings XERUN Blue Brushless 120A ESC (1S Lipo Supported) SL286 for 1/12 1-cell racing???
thanks
idbdoug
I just got one for my 1/12th It's not that much bigger than a rs but very nice not to have a booster or rx pack like I had last year.

for just over a hundred bucks I cannot complain and mine came with the programming box
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Old 10-11-2011, 01:27 PM   #36703
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
I just got one for my 1/12th It's not that much bigger than a rs but very nice not to have a booster or rx pack like I had last year.

for just over a hundred bucks I cannot complain and mine came with the programming box
Well the one my friend has was a real PITA to fit on an AE RC12R5.1 chassis with the dual capacitor and its size. He finally decided to let part of it overhang the edge of the chassis.

Maybe he has a different one than you got since we're in the USA. He bought it from Hobbypartz and it didn't come with a programming box.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:30 PM   #36704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Well the one my friend has was a real PITA to fit on an AE RC12R5.1 chassis with the dual capacitor and its size.
Yes, it is a bit big for 12th scale, but it fits...

http://www.mijnalbum.nl/GroteFoto-OTNVGHD6.jpg

Or, as I will drive this winter:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/GroteFoto-EDBLL8DM.jpg

End of October, the new V3 will come out, it is a bit smaller, the same as the Orion R10. (Because they are bassically the same )
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:57 PM   #36705
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So our group of 5 is getting itchy...
we seem to have settled on the carpet knife as the chassis and possibly the novak 1s esc and 17.5 as there is a track nearby that runs 1/12 and they go by "roar rules" 17.5...

I see there is the new inline carpet knife but we are ok with the old one if they are in stock...

anything else i need to know?
does everyone and their bro use x, y or z ESC?
is the novak a mistake?
we have our own 24X 36 track which is a bit small but were gonna make it work.
is a 17.5 appropriate for that size track? i have read pretty much this whole thread we are not newbs, just 1/12 newbs, do most of you run a rx pack, is that better than booster or and esc that boosts the BEC to 6 v we are likely to run 5 or 6 batteries thru it a nite...
I know there will be a variety of opinions but the 1/12 thread is populated by competent people (or at least MOST) lol unlike some of the offroad threads that are full of kids and morons..( at least some of them)
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