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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-08-2011, 05:48 PM   #36676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Screw View Post
I was always under the impression that ifyou used a rec pack with the sxx series it wouldnt work, or workright,or damage the speedo? Do you do it just like you would anyother 1/12 rec pac?.. or doyou have to disconnect something?
I know nothing about the LRPs specifically but I have never heard of an esc that could not ever use a rx pack. Even if the BEC just has to be bypassed to make it work, you just pull the red wire out.
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Old 10-08-2011, 07:00 PM   #36677
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Volker is running inline here

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Old 10-08-2011, 07:03 PM   #36678
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On many ESCs you simply don't switch it on, but use the RX pack switch.
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:21 AM   #36679
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Hey guys question,

For 1/12th 13.5 boosted which motor would be better?D3 13.5 or the Revetech 13.5 this is on a 100'x45 indoor carpet track. Also which rotor would be better the one that comes with the motor or the 1c high rpm rotor?

Last edited by noline; 10-10-2011 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 10-09-2011, 12:17 PM   #36680
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Sorry, but that is absolutely and completely wrong. Xceed has had several different tire lines including Jaco made ones. See this page:

http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=6846

In addition to those, they have also had Italian made and Japanese made lines.
OK, you win.; Jaco tyres are made by Jaco, and the other lines are made by the other manufacturers. But Xceed never MADE Jaco tyres as you said in your first post, they only sold them.

It is not the Jaco tyres we are talking about, it is the tyres made by Xceed.
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:27 AM   #36681
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
I know nothing about the LRPs specifically but I have never heard of an esc that could not ever use a rx pack. Even if the BEC just has to be bypassed to make it work, you just pull the red wire out.
I'm just looking at getting into 12th and need some info on electrics. Ideally I would reuse my existing sxx tc v1, what do I need to do to make it work and not break rules? Do I buy an rx pack then remove the red wire from the esc to rx?
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:45 AM   #36682
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
OK, you win.; Jaco tyres are made by Jaco, and the other lines are made by the other manufacturers. But Xceed never MADE Jaco tyres as you said in your first post, they only sold them.

It is not the Jaco tyres we are talking about, it is the tyres made by Xceed.
Where in my post did I say that?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
There are a couple different types out there. The ones on Jaco wheels ARE Jacos, no difference so if you like Jacos, you will like them.
In other words, the Xceeds on Jaco wheels are made by Jaco, identical to Jacos.

As far as I know, Xceed doesn't actually make ANY tires themselves. They are all re-branded from some other manufacturer such as Jaco, ATS, Matrix, etc.

The poster asked about Xceed tires and I correctly told him that the ones on Prizm wheels are Jacos, so if he likes Jacos, he will like them too. If he is looking at Xceeds on other wheels, I can't help him as I have never run them.
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Last edited by wingracer; 10-10-2011 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:47 AM   #36683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveG28 View Post
I'm just looking at getting into 12th and need some info on electrics. Ideally I would reuse my existing sxx tc v1, what do I need to do to make it work and not break rules? Do I buy an rx pack then remove the red wire from the esc to rx?
You would probably get a better answer in the LRP thread. I suspect that since it is a TC speedo, you will need a booster or rx pack. You probably would not remove the red wire, just leave the esc switch off but LRP could tell you for sure.

The only way to break any rules is if you somehow figured out a way to wire it up so the rx pack sent power to the motor. Normal set-ups will NOT do this.
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:28 AM   #36684
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Hey all you 1/12 gurus, I am modding my old GenX cause I can to have the steering setup similar to the genXL where the steering links mount inside on the servo saver and I am just playing with angles of the links now

What is the best angle for the links to be at (at center) for the best steering.

This is what I have currently after mounting the Servo in it's new location.




I can move the servo for and aft. I can get close to parallel if I need to but just looking for a good starting point and also what do different angles do.

the Servo is mounted on the angles mounts.
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:33 AM   #36685
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Hey guys question,

For 1/12th 13.5 boosted which motor would be better?D3 13.5 or the Revetech 13.5 this is on a 100'x45 indoor carpet track. Also which rotor would be better the one that comes with the motor or the 1c high rpm rotor?

Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:47 AM   #36686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noline View Post
Hey guys question,

For 1/12th 13.5 boosted which motor would be better?D3 13.5 or the Revetech 13.5 this is on a 100'x45 indoor carpet track. Also which rotor would be better the one that comes with the motor or the 1c high rpm rotor?

Any help would be greatly appreciated
The kind of motor you run is not as important as the gearing, and ESC set up. The 3 fastest racers at our track run 3 different motors, a Reedy Sonic, a LRP X-12 and a Trinity Duo 1. If you have no idea, run what one of your fast guys runs so he can help with your set up.
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:47 AM   #36687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Hey all you 1/12 gurus, I am modding my old GenX cause I can to have the steering setup similar to the genXL where the steering links mount inside on the servo saver and I am just playing with angles of the links now

What is the best angle for the links to be at (at center) for the best steering.

This is what I have currently after mounting the Servo in it's new location.




I can move the servo for and aft. I can get close to parallel if I need to but just looking for a good starting point and also what do different angles do.

the Servo is mounted on the angles mounts.
I always have my steering rods slightly forward when using the servo angled holders. The tie rods are behind the servo saver and the rods when looking down at the servo saver are again slightly ahead

With the servo in centered position you could provide side shot picture of the links so I can see what angle your rods are at
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:55 AM   #36688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Hey all you 1/12 gurus, I am modding my old GenX cause I can to have the steering setup similar to the genXL where the steering links mount inside on the servo saver and I am just playing with angles of the links now

What is the best angle for the links to be at (at center) for the best steering.

This is what I have currently after mounting the Servo in it's new location.




I can move the servo for and aft. I can get close to parallel if I need to but just looking for a good starting point and also what do different angles do.

the Servo is mounted on the angles mounts.
It's not generally a good idea to have the tie-rods angled forward from the servo to the steering block, Most racers run them as straight across the car as they can, a few angle them back slightly. The angle upwards should be adjusted so there is the least amount of toe change as possible as the suspension moves. Based on those pictures I think you need to use some spacers to move your servo forward slightly.
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:16 AM   #36689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
It's not generally a good idea to have the tie-rods angled forward from the servo to the steering block, Most racers run them as straight across the car as they can, a few angle them back slightly. The angle upwards should be adjusted so there is the least amount of toe change as possible as the suspension moves. Based on those pictures I think you need to use some spacers to move your servo forward slightly.
Jilles and Elliot seem to have theirs "slightly" forward

Slightly = barely forward/almost not...lol

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Old 10-10-2011, 10:19 AM   #36690
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Exactly. Nice pics!
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