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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-02-2011, 04:23 PM   #36586
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Sorry, boosted is most important for me... But if you know for 0 degree too, please tell me...
Tires always as small as possible... But if I know the range of pinions a bit i can never be wrong...
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:04 AM   #36587
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Heres a bit of a debate: When I paint and cut out a new body I make it basically bolted on the chassis, barely make the post holes big enough for the posts and use foam and big clips to keep it under constant tension and never move, but I have seen other people do the exact opposite, and enlarge the body holes and have the body sit loose on the car. I can see how that would be useful if the car wasn't as stiff as they are today, and in the distant past it was easy to tweak a chassis, but is it really worth it today?
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Old 10-03-2011, 08:12 AM   #36588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Heres a bit of a debate: When I paint and cut out a new body I make it basically bolted on the chassis, barely make the post holes big enough for the posts and use foam and big clips to keep it under constant tension and never move, but I have seen other people do the exact opposite, and enlarge the body holes and have the body sit loose on the car. I can see how that would be useful if the car wasn't as stiff as they are today, and in the distant past it was easy to tweak a chassis, but is it really worth it today?
I believe the body should add downforce, and protection.
Loose & floating is best.
This way the chassis won't have an Extra spring, and the car will be more forgiving when grazing dots, barriers or anything else we bump into.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:08 AM   #36589
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Carbide Tire File

Thought I'd let fellow 1/12 scale racers know about this

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9730957-post1.html

Found these in a box left from my RC track and were the best tire files I had found. Have already sold 5, and now only 2 left to sell.

Mark
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Last edited by Grenade10; 10-04-2011 at 06:36 AM.
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Old 10-03-2011, 04:14 PM   #36590
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Default 1/12 onroad rubber tires?

I wanted to know if anyone make 1/12 scale onroad rubber tires? If so where can I get some? Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2011, 04:17 PM   #36591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I believe the body should add downforce, and protection.
Loose & floating is best.
This way the chassis won't have an Extra spring, and the car will be more forgiving when grazing dots, barriers or anything else we bump into.
Yea I like slightly floating and loose also

What else are we bumping into ...lol
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:35 PM   #36592
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Default Xceed RC tires

Has anybody run the Xceed RC 12th scale tires? I am looking to buy new tires here real soon and would like you alls $0.02 on their tires before I jump in and buy something that may not be what I want. Any help information be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:55 PM   #36593
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Great 12th scale action
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Old 10-04-2011, 05:34 AM   #36594
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around 34mm for mod and around 55mm for 13.5 turns with boost... what range of spur and pinions i need for the 13.5 class?
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Old 10-04-2011, 05:40 AM   #36595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
Has anybody run the Xceed RC 12th scale tires? I am looking to buy new tires here real soon and would like you alls $0.02 on their tires before I jump in and buy something that may not be what I want. Any help information be greatly appreciated.
There are a couple different types out there. The ones on Jaco wheels ARE Jacos, no difference so if you like Jacos, you will like them.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:14 AM   #36596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
Has anybody run the Xceed RC 12th scale tires? I am looking to buy new tires here real soon and would like you alls $0.02 on their tires before I jump in and buy something that may not be what I want. Any help information be greatly appreciated.
Xceed foams has always been made by Jaco. I know this from 1/10th nitro as all the Xceed 1/10 foams are made by Jaco so it would be obvious the 1/12 is the same. However, Jaco claims that their tires are pre-trued and ready to run straight out of the box. Not sure if that is true with the Xceed. Try a set and see. Worst case all you need to do is put them on a truer. If not then you'll save a few pennies because they're slightly less than the Jaco branded ones.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:21 AM   #36597
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Default New 1/12 chassis layout

What's the verdict on the new chassis layout with the battery mounted length wise offset to either side and countered with the electronics? (ie. Speedmerchant, Serpent S120LT, etc..)

Is this gonna be the new game changer or just a quicky trend?
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Old 10-04-2011, 11:29 AM   #36598
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Haven't had the chance to try one myself, but Brian Kinwald said his Associated inline surprised him with how fast it was right out of the box. It looked very good on the track. Surprisingly, he wasn't the fastest car down the straight, but he was untouchable in the infield.
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:32 PM   #36599
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Off topic, but it makes me all nostalgic to see Kinwald's name on entry lists and hear about him wheeling everything he can again.
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Old 10-04-2011, 03:08 PM   #36600
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to bump my question up again...

am I correct rollout for mod is around 34 mm? and 13.5 turns boost around 58mm?
what pinions and spur range i can use? what is the smallest spur i am able to use? crc has 72teeth 64dp.

I am also interested 13,5 no boost and 17,5 turns rollout... in case i ever gonna drive that
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