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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-16-2003, 07:38 PM   #3646
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Default Re: 2 motors

Quote:
Originally posted by pro3racer
okay, i was layin around today, and thought of a new way to make 4wd. Is there a car, i want a 12th scale, that i can put a motor up front, and basically make a touring car out of a pan car, is there a good base car to start this from.
If you want a 4wd 12th scale, why don't you just buy the Yokomo 1/12th scale 4wd touring car?
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Old 08-17-2003, 08:46 AM   #3647
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ran my CRC carpet knife for the 1st time today i liked it a bit better than my RC12L3 - without traction compound, the CRC handled just as well as my old RC12 with tire sauce also, the kydex front bumper and mono-ball suspension kept me from the usual broken front lower arm and rear t-plate. im still looking to improve the handling - im gonna experiment with tire sauce and different rear springs next time.

carpet knife owners, what usually breaks in the car? what spares do i need? im looking at stocking up on potential parts to break since the LHS that carries CRC products is a bit far from where i race. though the track's hobby shop has RC12 parts so i can get front suspension parts.

in my opinion, the weak point i see here is the mono ball mounting (carbon fiber and plastic) and the one-piece rear links. although i had some pretty strong board hits, none came loose or broke. but im sure that over time, i will break something (as i regularly destroy my RC12's front arms and t-plate ) is the rear suspension assembly tough enough so that i dont need to get spares? thanks for any info
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Old 08-17-2003, 09:26 AM   #3648
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Default Good News

I have never broken anything except many bumpers, one king pin and one axle. The king pin and axle were both broken after I ran with out the bumper. I did get "punted" by a 1/10 TC and it took a chip out of my spur gear, but that is alll since January.

Expierment with a stiffer center spring. The difference is amazing.

I have never broken the rear ball or side links.

Most parts are replaceable with 12L parts anyhow.
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Old 08-17-2003, 09:33 AM   #3649
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Default MARVI

Quote:
Originally posted by marvi
ran my CRC carpet knife for the 1st time today i liked it a bit better than my RC12L3 - without traction compound, the CRC handled just as well as my old RC12 with tire sauce also, the kydex front bumper and mono-ball suspension kept me from the usual broken front lower arm and rear t-plate. im still looking to improve the handling - im gonna experiment with tire sauce and different rear springs next time.

carpet knife owners, what usually breaks in the car? what spares do i need? im looking at stocking up on potential parts to break since the LHS that carries CRC products is a bit far from where i race. though the track's hobby shop has RC12 parts so i can get front suspension parts.

in my opinion, the weak point i see here is the mono ball mounting (carbon fiber and plastic) and the one-piece rear links. although i had some pretty strong board hits, none came loose or broke. but im sure that over time, i will break something (as i regularly destroy my RC12's front arms and t-plate ) is the rear suspension assembly tough enough so that i dont need to get spares? thanks for any info
Too bad the first ever "BIG" 1/12th race was scrapped!! Grrrrrrr!!!
My shedule is clear on Wednesday!! See you at Rockwell??
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Old 08-17-2003, 09:43 AM   #3650
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Does anyone here tried using the tri-shock setup on L3??if so what oil wt should i start with on the 2 sid shock??

Thanks
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Old 08-17-2003, 10:34 AM   #3651
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FreshJive:

Mark A posts alot in the "1/10 pan car" thread (see 1/8 scale and larger forum) and he has been experimenting with a 3 shock set-up on his 10L2. He races both stock (SoCal) and mod (Revalation) with this set-up and does well. He's also very approachable. He uses two 1/12 scale shocks on the sides and the regular 1/10 shock in the center position. He may be able to give you some good starting point tips.....
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Old 08-17-2003, 10:38 AM   #3652
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Quote:
Originally posted by Graphitedust
FreshJive:

Mark A posts alot in the "1/10 pan car" thread (see 1/8 scale and larger forum) and he has been experimenting with a 3 shock set-up on his 10L2. He races both stock (SoCal) and mod (Revalation) with this set-up and does well. He's also very approachable. He uses two 1/12 scale shocks on the sides and the regular 1/10 shock in the center position. He may be able to give you some good starting point tips.....
just check out the thread..as i remembered he had a link in his signature to the tri shock mods that he ran on the L2..but it's not on his signature anymore...will PM him later for the link...thanks graphitedust
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Old 08-17-2003, 03:25 PM   #3653
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Default Here is the link, but..

It is tempororly disabled. This is a 10th scale mod, makes the L2 like the L30 with 3 shocks and does not use tweak screws.

http://www.openwheelnews.net/L25stuff.htm
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Old 08-17-2003, 10:26 PM   #3654
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Default 1/12th asphalt

OK I finally desided to deviate from my T-bar car for convenience reasons, I am about fed up with strapping tape!!!

Which car would be better on a very smooth, good bite asphalt track. The REV.3 or Carpet knife.

Please add a reason why I should sway towards 1 or the other and I will be ordering the new car on Tuesday right now I really like the REV.3, but all of the competition is running the Knife......

The track doesn't carry specific parts for either, but can get either...... they however do carry front end parts for both associated suspensions.........
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Old 08-18-2003, 12:24 AM   #3655
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
If it's got a T-bar it's a 12L, more than likely an original 12L graphite kit. Should a have a section of wire that stetches from the back of the upper pod plate to a small white plastic tube on top of the damper post. On the wire there should be a spring or a section of fuel tubing. The T-bar should be L shaped. The body posts go on top of the 8/32 screws that mount the front suspension arms.
CypressMidWest: Do you have ANY pictures of how the damper goes on this thing? Or how a 12LW goes? (theres a long story here)

Muffin: Still waiting on the next T-shirt order....hang in there!

To the 1/12 scale general population:
Does anyone know of a website that might have old pictures of 1/12 scale cars for a period spaning 1985 to about 1988? Maybe pictures of Kinwald, Cliff Lett or any of the old racers?
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Old 08-18-2003, 01:45 AM   #3656
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if you goto

www.12thscale.com

and look on the forum for a thread called "12th thru the ages" or something like that there is a couple of decent sites there! has alot of pics of really old cars.

NOW WILL SOMEBODY pleeeeeeeease answer my question about T-bars?

cheers
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Old 08-18-2003, 07:07 AM   #3657
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Default 12L

12L
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Old 08-18-2003, 07:10 AM   #3658
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Default 12LW

12LW
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Old 08-18-2003, 09:50 AM   #3659
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CypressMidWest: PERFECT!!!!!! Thank You!!! Are those pictures or do you actually have those cars? There great! I checked those pictures out at 8am and they had already been looked at 21 times! I think that others on this thread are checking out the old stuff too!

Rice98W: Thank you! I'll give it a try.
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Old 08-18-2003, 10:37 AM   #3660
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Arrow

Any news on the new Trinity 1/12?

??? Has anyone heard of a TQ Eagle from years past?? Like to see a pic if you have.

Looking for pics of older 1/12 scales.... Please post or email to me with a description.

EchoLogicRC
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