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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-30-2011, 02:01 PM   #36541
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Maybe driving 12th might take getting used to for new people but the cars are just way easier to deal with than 2wd off road or TC and it is not uncommon for a certain 12th setup to work at many tracks

I like .018 but most everyone has .020 on their cars
Caster is always around 5 degrees and camber is just to wear tires even
I mean set the side and top springs and your kinda done humbly speaking

lol

p.s.

You should take some pics of your next race of the cars and drivers

I had a lot of fun racing at the carpet track in tucson and I still can't remember the name of the really tall old guy that was totally into 12th there
That would be Lonnie
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:05 PM   #36542
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Speaking of wiring...

It seems 16g is the most common wire for 17.5 blinky 12th, both for the motor and the battery wires.

Does 16g work fine for 13.5 boost? Ive seen some setups that have 16g on the motor and what looks to be 13 or 14g for the batt? Will 16g all around cut it?
The heavier wire to the battery doesn't hurt the handling since the they're both on the same chassis and do not move, but the thinner wire weighs less.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:39 PM   #36543
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Hmmm... Thanks. So what do you guys run for 13.5 boost? 16g motor/13-14g batt?


Also, does anyone know the offset of the TRC wheels? Same as the Jacos?
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:02 PM   #36544
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post

I had a lot of fun racing at the carpet track in tucson and I still can't remember the name of the really tall old guy that was totally into 12th there
Either Rick or Lonny. Lonny is a 1/12 scale and pan car fanatic, Rick will also race offroad if the mood strikes him.
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:06 PM   #36545
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I use the CRC/TQ 16G wire all round for 10.5 with no problems. 14G for mod though, battery and motor.

Trev
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:16 PM   #36546
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Hey Andrew

Get well, we need your happy self back at the track..

Del City, OK.
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:20 PM   #36547
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Almost there - the reason a single damper is not preferred is that the amount of damping changes left to right. As the damper piston withdraws from the cylinder you get less damping area, and as it goes into the cylinder you get more. With two dampers you get the same damping all the time - as one piston withdraws the other enters, so the overall damping area is unchanged. The angles are no more of a worry than on the centre shock, but the area of damping is the concern. HTH

So if the damper tube works on the friction (for lack of a better word) of the oil...why would the dampening be different in one direction from the other? Maybe because the air can not evacuate fast enough from the closed end of the tube even with the small air hole?
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:36 PM   #36548
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
So if the damper tube works on the friction (for lack of a better word) of the oil...why would the dampening be different in one direction from the other? Maybe because the air can not evacuate fast enough from the closed end of the tube even with the small air hole?
In one direction, area is increasing so the damping is progressive. In the other direction, area is reducing making the damping regressive.
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:37 PM   #36549
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Somehow I'm not very convinced that tubes are better than shocks. Last season my poor old RC12R5.1 with shocks led and won the series against a whole field of tubes (all CRCs).

I still can't see any real advantage except it needs much more maintenance. Also doesn't the cars with tubes use side springs too?
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:50 PM   #36550
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Hey AreCee,

Though Im not an expert on shock vs damper tubes they pretty much do the same thing. I like damper tubes cause there real easy to change to different lube thickness on the fly.If you feel you like the shock stick with it Its more of a personal preference.

Hope this helps
Mike


Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Somehow I'm not very convinced that tubes are better than shocks. Last season my poor old RC12R5.1 with shocks led and won the series against a whole field of tubes (all CRCs).

I still can't see any real advantage except it needs much more maintenance. Also doesn't the cars with tubes use side springs too?
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:05 PM   #36551
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Having been back in 1/12 scale for a while, I have a list of questions for other like racers:

1: Does it take everybody two hours to cut out a body to satisfaction?

2: Do you keep all of your junk in some other room but put your car on your desk but not to work on it, just stare at it and flex the suspension every few minutes?

3: Do you get way to happy for breaking your old single lap record by a few hundredths of a second?

4: Why is there always somebody with a smoother diff no matter what you do?

5: Why do the apexes of the corners seem to move between rounds?

And 6: Why is it so damn hard to convince anybody who doesn't already do it that racing toy cars is cool? Much cooler than say... video games, golf, or whatever normal people do for fun?
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:23 PM   #36552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Having been back in 1/12 scale for a while, I have a list of questions for other like racers:

1: Does it take everybody two hours to cut out a body to satisfaction?
No. I've gotten pretty quick with the hobby knife score and peel method, probably due to a lot of required practice.
Quote:
2: Do you keep all of your junk in some other room but put your car on your desk but not to work on it, just stare at it and flex the suspension every few minutes?
I have a desk JUST FOR my RC's
Quote:
3: Do you get way to happy for breaking your old single lap record by a few hundredths of a second?
We change layouts fairly often, so I don't worry about my single lap records so much, but improving 2-3 laps throughout the day always gets me smiling.
Quote:
4: Why is there always somebody with a smoother diff no matter what you do?
If someone has a smoother diff than my car, I tear it down for cleaning, inspection, bearing replacement and re-lube immediately.
Quote:
5: Why do the apexes of the corners seem to move between rounds?
Same reason trees grab golf balls, shopping carts ONLY hit your car in a parking lot, and only your order in a group of 10 will be messed up at a restaurant... conspiracy.
Quote:
And 6: Why is it so damn hard to convince anybody who doesn't already do it that racing toy cars is cool? Much cooler than say... video games, golf, or whatever normal people do for fun?
I dunno, and I don't know why I spend so much time and effort trying to do it

Nice questions.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:18 PM   #36553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Having been back in 1/12 scale for a while, I have a list of questions for other like racers:

1: Does it take everybody two hours to cut out a body to satisfaction?

2: Do you keep all of your junk in some other room but put your car on your desk but not to work on it, just stare at it and flex the suspension every few minutes?

3: Do you get way to happy for breaking your old single lap record by a few hundredths of a second?

4: Why is there always somebody with a smoother diff no matter what you do?

5: Why do the apexes of the corners seem to move between rounds?

And 6: Why is it so damn hard to convince anybody who doesn't already do it that racing toy cars is cool? Much cooler than say... video games, golf, or whatever normal people do for fun?
And I thought I was the only one......
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:38 PM   #36554
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You don't have to be CRAZY to race toy cars, but it couldn't hurt.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:44 PM   #36555
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
In one direction, area is increasing so the damping is progressive. In the other direction, area is reducing making the damping regressive.
Ah that makes sense thanks for clearing that up...surprised I didn't think of that earlier...LOL
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