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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-27-2011, 01:31 PM   #36511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PutAwayWet View Post
Actually, I believe he is right about the GTB2. We have a guy up here running a GTB2 in his WGT with no booster or RX pack. 1s, of course. It works fine. I've stared right at it and asked, "Where's your receiver pack? Where's your booster?" Nada. Apparently, it doesn't need one.
Nevermind, I'm out on this discussion, especially since it seems YR4 is changing from a previous view on the issue:

Novak GTB 2 Sportsman ESC

I'm not a Novak fan anyway, just figured if they list the SmartBoost as an optional accessory, and give instructions on how to use a receiver pack, chances are it's not giving 5 or 6V to the radio. I could see it passing pack voltage to the radio, like just about all the other brands do/did before 1s specific ESCs with built in boosters, but not all radio systems or servos like to operate at that lower voltage.

If I'm wrong, I'm wrong.

Either way, I no longer care, have fun.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:39 PM   #36512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
Nevermind, I'm out on this discussion, especially since it seems YR4 is changing from a previous view on the issue:

Novak GTB 2 Sportsman ESC

I'm not a Novak fan anyway, just figured if they list the SmartBoost as an optional accessory, and give instructions on how to use a receiver pack, chances are it's not giving 5 or 6V to the radio. I could see it passing pack voltage to the radio, like just about all the other brands do/did before 1s specific ESCs with built in boosters, but not all radio systems or servos like to operate at that lower voltage.

If I'm wrong, I'm wrong.

Either way, I no longer care, have fun.
Nobody is flaming you. I was also on the same assumption that since the old GTB needed a booster to run 1s so too did the GTB-2. Of course thats why it was news to me.

Just got off the phone with the Novak tech, the Booster is required for both GTB2 and the new Kinetic Spec. The Kinetic 1s requires a receiver battery and can not be used with a booster. The only speed control that has the booster built in is the Havoc 1s which is now discontinued. Really, their product description and their specs is somewhat deceiving. It really doesn't make the situation any better for newbs looking into 1/12.

The Novak tech said that their market research says that 1s racers all prefer running a receiver battery hence why the Kinetic 1s can only run with the rx battery and not with the booster. That is somewhat strange about the research because there are so many questions about finding a speed control that has a built in booster for 1s. So Rx packs anyone?
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:41 PM   #36513
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It's all good, didn't think anyone was flaming, just didn't want to add to the conjecture.

So it would seem the BEC in the GTB2 just passes voltage if input is under 6v. Food for thought for the guys not running a booster or RX pack.

I'm also not a fan of RX packs on my electric vehicles, strange that Novak would make an ESC that was incompatible with a booster.

Is what it is, boosters take up less room than an RC3 PT, and I never forget to charge it.
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:09 PM   #36514
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I perfered to use a RX pack vs a booster. Of course, I had the novak booster, it was too big for my liking and I couldn't mount it flat.
E
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:38 PM   #36515
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Yeah, the Novak booster is one of the oddest shaped/packaged RC electronics items I've dealt with in a long time.

The other booster, available from TQ and a host of others with various connections, doodads and heat shrink colors, is really easy to tuck on a chassis though.
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:46 PM   #36516
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Can you use Dif oil in damper tubes? I was just wondering if anyone has tried this. I have ofna and Losi Dif lube 10,000, 20,000 and 30,000 wt
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:00 PM   #36517
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Yes you can, it's fairly common practice.
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:05 PM   #36518
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What is considered a good 17.5 12th scale body?
Thanks and God Bless
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:46 PM   #36519
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Quote:
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What is considered a good 17.5 12th scale body?
Thanks and God Bless
I like the AMR from protoform. But my carpet track is next to an off-road track that kicks up some dust
E
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:43 PM   #36520
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I take the easy way out, I just look for a 0.030" thick body instead of the lightweight bodies. They seem to take the hits better.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:12 PM   #36521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsaves View Post
What is considered a good 17.5 12th scale body?
Thanks and God Bless
Black Art/CRC Audi R8C, Parma Speed8. Excellent downforce with minimal drag....

The Black Art/Crc Bomb'R, Protoform AMr, and Parma EE-1 seem better suited to Mod racing, as they offer more downforce overall than the two mentioned.

As for bodies that do Mod and 17.5 well, The Parma Speed8 HD seems to fit the bill well......
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:03 PM   #36522
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Just thought I'd post a pic of my Corally car with the current theme of length wise battery mounting. Gonna give it a run this friday:



Cheers!
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:18 PM   #36523
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Just thought I'd post a pic of my Corally car with the current theme of length wise battery mounting. Gonna give it a run this friday:

Cheers!
Your steering links look like your ackerman will result in painful handling (just me though, I like less ackerman than some)
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:56 PM   #36524
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I found this and thought is it true that TC has killed turn out at races?

I'm actually interested in TC in the future as to learn more about Sedans but this short article has some interesting points that the TC has made rc enthusiasts bummed out because of how complex they are and because of the TC phenomenon 12th got killed or has less interest and so forth thus when people go to see 12th it isn't there cause TC took over hence this article is kinda true through a certain perspective

Quote:
Not to mention the basic cost, it’s no wonder turn out is low across the country. It’s the cars themselves that are killing racing.
Curious what people think and I will try my hardest to generate interest at my local track for 12th

Last edited by Infinite 12th; 09-30-2011 at 02:27 AM.
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:23 AM   #36525
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What puts off some Taxi racers is the foam tires we have, and dealing with a truer and chunking.

That, and the myth that the lumbering Cadillacs are somehow easier to drive

We've got nearly 400 entries at iic next week.
On Road Racing is alive and well.
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