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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-23-2011, 05:14 PM   #36481
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If i wanted to get into 12th scale as a beginner who has a bunch of 7.2v nimh six cell packs and brushed esc is there a car i could get to fit this gear before i went to 3.7v lipo and brushless at a later date?
Look in the FS forum for 12L4 or 3, etc. Not sure if those have slots for 6 cells but definitely enough slots for 4.
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Old 09-24-2011, 02:43 PM   #36482
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Does anybody know what weight the CRC "White" dampener fluid is? I cant seem to find a spec for it.
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Old 09-24-2011, 06:24 PM   #36483
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If i wanted to get into 12th scale as a beginner who has a bunch of 7.2v nimh six cell packs and brushed esc is there a car i could get to fit this gear before i went to 3.7v lipo and brushless at a later date?
As mentioned you could get a cheap t-bar car(like an L4) to start; but if you decide to move to lipo latter you would then have to buy a more modern car that is lipo friendly. The better thing is to find a cheap CRC CK or a newer lipo ready car. You can still fit nimh into these cars with abit of work and then when your ready to move to lipo you will not need to buy another car. Plus you can find these cars almost any day on the BST thread for $100 and less.

But you should check the rules where you run as not many tracks have racers using nimh and thay might not let you run unless you go with 1s.
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:15 PM   #36484
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Default Antenna wire

It may be a silly question but: How do you guys mount your antenna wire?

Do you do it old school by coiling it up the rollover antenna or is there a new way that is slicker than that? Not fond of coiling it on the rollover antenna because the wire will typically get cut or nicked by the body over time.
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:43 PM   #36485
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It may be a silly question but: How do you guys mount your antenna wire?

Do you do it old school by coiling it up the rollover antenna or is there a new way that is slicker than that? Not fond of coiling it on the rollover antenna because the wire will typically get cut or nicked by the body over time.
I'm using the Spektrum SR3500 which has a very short antenna wire so I just slip it in some heat shrink tubing with the roll over mast.
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:52 PM   #36486
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
It may be a silly question but: How do you guys mount your antenna wire?

Do you do it old school by coiling it up the rollover antenna or is there a new way that is slicker than that? Not fond of coiling it on the rollover antenna because the wire will typically get cut or nicked by the body over time.
People tell me I'm nuts for doing this, but I loop it up under or through the front suspension arms (no, it doesn't actually touch anything that moves) and run it through two unused holes in my front body posts that ride just above the foam bumper and below the body before slipping a thin shrinkwrap layer over the end of it so it cant wiggle out. No actual antenna holes or anything, no glitches, nothing broken yet.
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:01 PM   #36487
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I might be crazy as well, I use a Spektrum SR3500. My PT is servo taped on top of the steering servo, and the antenna wire is fed through one of the PT mounting holes, just chilling under the body, but free of any moving parts.

No glitches, loss of range or anything silly like that, and no wire shortening due to body rub.

Back in the AM and brushed motor oval days, I used to take scrap lexan from the wheel well of a body, punch a bunch of holes in it and coil the antenna wire around it, servo taped to the chassis. Sometimes had to play with the placement to minimize glitches, but it usually worked fairly well, without sticking up through the body.

Antenna routing is usually a lot less critical with 2.4 radios these days.
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Old 09-26-2011, 03:41 PM   #36488
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Does anybody know what weight the CRC "White" dampener fluid is? I cant seem to find a spec for it.
Hi i have been told its 40.000 but i run 30 and 35 when the grip comes up.
I use the x-ray fluid as the bottle is easer to use silly i konw but the blobs are easier to get the same.
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Old 09-26-2011, 06:43 PM   #36489
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I need some advice on buying a motor. I am new to racing electric and am building a CRC XL. The class I am racing is 10.5 no boost. I am planning on buying a LRP sxx competition esc and am trying to decide on what motor to use. My current choices are novak ballistic or Tekin redline but a open to anthing. Is there a difference be motors or is a 10.5 just a 10.5. Any help would be great.
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:50 PM   #36490
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I need some advice on buying a motor. I am new to racing electric and am building a CRC XL. The class I am racing is 10.5 no boost. I am planning on buying a LRP sxx competition esc and am trying to decide on what motor to use. My current choices are novak ballistic or Tekin redline but a open to anthing. Is there a difference be motors or is a 10.5 just a 10.5. Any help would be great.
Not all motors are created equal. The current trend in BL motors are the ones that have their windings epoxy dipped. To my knowledge the Novak Ballistic is not but they offer an epoxy dipped stator as an optional part. Not sure if the Tekins are either. The epoxy dipped motors are more durable and more heat resistant.

A good motor I've found lately is the Epic D3. They're quite economical and they deliver good amounts of power without generating a lot of heat like other motors. I know this because I have the Ballistic and have burned out two stators so far but the D3 just keeps on going and temps less with the same gearing.
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:10 PM   #36491
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I need some advice on buying a motor. I am new to racing electric and am building a CRC XL. The class I am racing is 10.5 no boost. I am planning on buying a LRP sxx competition esc and am trying to decide on what motor to use. My current choices are novak ballistic or Tekin redline but a open to anthing. Is there a difference be motors or is a 10.5 just a 10.5. Any help would be great.
If it were me, I would talk to the fast guys to see what they were running.
It's not so much about the brand of motor, though the 2 you mentioned are fairly old tech now.

You want to know how a particular motor is geared and timed for your class.
The fast guys will do all the hard work, and you can reap the rewards

10.5 1s should not produce enough heat to be a concern, unlike 2s racing.
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:54 PM   #36492
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If it were me, I would talk to the fast guys to see what they were running.
It's not so much about the brand of motor, though the 2 you mentioned are fairly old tech now.

You want to know how a particular motor is geared and timed for your class.
The fast guys will do all the hard work, and you can reap the rewards

10.5 1s should not produce enough heat to be a concern, unlike 2s racing.
I would love to talk to the fast guys but this is the first season of carpet racing we are having for around 3 years, and I am sure the tech has changed a little since then. And everyone that has raced 1/12 is pretty much starting fresh. It is nice to know that the Novak and Tekin are low tech now, all my racing experience is nitro IGT and more recommends on updated tech is welcomed. If anyone has an opinion on the LRP ESC or something different would be good also.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:26 PM   #36493
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I would love to talk to the fast guys but this is the first season of carpet racing we are having for around 3 years, and I am sure the tech has changed a little since then. And everyone that has raced 1/12 is pretty much starting fresh. It is nice to know that the Novak and Tekin are low tech now, all my racing experience is nitro IGT and more recommends on updated tech is welcomed. If anyone has an opinion on the LRP ESC or something different would be good also.
Ahh, I see.

N & T are not low tech motors by any stretch.
But there have been a few updates since the motors you mentioned came out.

More venting, lighter weight, better efficiency and such.

RevTech
Duo3
LRPX12
Thunderpower
Reedy Sonic
MurfDogg

and a few others I can't remember them all, are the latest tech stuff.
most everyone will have a biased opinion when it comes to a choice on which is best.
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Last edited by RedBullFiXX; 09-26-2011 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:24 PM   #36494
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We run 13.5 boosted, which is a bit different, but the 4 fastest cars run: A Reedy Sonic, a Trinity Duo 1 with a 1S rotor, and 2 LRP X12s. Proper gearing and roll out with good car set up are what matters. If you haven't bought the ESC yet, consider the SXX Stock Spec, it eliminates the RX pack.
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:49 PM   #36495
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We run 13.5 boosted, which is a bit different, but the 4 fastest cars run: A Reedy Sonic, a Trinity Duo 1 with a 1S rotor, and 2 LRP X12s. Proper gearing and roll out with good car set up are what matters. If you haven't bought the ESC yet, consider the SXX Stock Spec, it eliminates the RX pack.
The Lrp SXX competition boost the voltage to 6v also right? That was the main reason I was looking at it. I don't want to have to run a RX pack or a voltage booster if I don't have to.
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