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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-22-2011, 10:10 AM   #36451
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Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
we are a group of about 6 racers and we dont go to organised events (well maybe east coast challenge 1/18 race in Nov) so will these work on 2 cell lipos with the throttle turned down and avoid having to do all the 1 cell mods or ordering 1 cell motor esc combos. Or is it an issue getting 2 celll packs to fit?
Sorry for all the newb questions...
were NOT newbs just 1/12 newbs.lol
Okay, I don't think that you will work up enough speed in that area to break the cars. A 1 cell motor is the same as a 2 cell motor, the difference between a 1s ESC and a 2s ESC is you leave the ESC off and plug in the receiver pack, and the only 2s pack that I think would fit a 1s 1/12 scale is made for Mini-T's or something like that.

Have fun, its a blast.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:54 AM   #36452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
we are a group of about 6 racers and we dont go to organised events (well maybe east coast challenge 1/18 race in Nov) so will these work on 2 cell lipos with the throttle turned down and avoid having to do all the 1 cell mods or ordering 1 cell motor esc combos. Or is it an issue getting 2 celll packs to fit?
Sorry for all the newb questions...
were NOT newbs just 1/12 newbs.lol
Losi has a short 2s pack, I don't know the dimensions but if you really want to run a 2s pack have a look at those. I strongly suggest that you run 1s packs and us a booster or get a 1s specific ESC.
E
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Last edited by EricF; 09-22-2011 at 01:29 PM. Reason: typo's
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:09 AM   #36453
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thanx guys good info... if i get a 1cell esc do i still need the booster? or is it built in? i will start looking any brand recommendations?
or ones to avoid?
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:46 AM   #36454
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Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
thanx guys good info... if i get a 1cell esc do i still need the booster? or is it built in? i will start looking any brand recommendations?
or ones to avoid?
Wow, lots of really confusing information being spread about.

Some 1S ESC do not require a booster or RX pack and some do require it (Castle for one).

You do need to leave the ESC switch on with some ESCs and not with others.

If you ask about a specific ESC then you may even get the correct information regarding that ESC but then again you may not.

I use the Tekin RS in both my 1/12 17.5 motor and WGT 13.5. I use a small 2S 220mah LiFe pack and must turn on the ESC in order for it to work. Both classes I race at use open ESC with boost and whatever you want to throw in there. The batteries range from SMC to Reedy to Thunder to Pro-Tek. One of our racers uses the Hobbywing 1S ESC and it looks OK. The rest use Tekins and some use that Losi 2S lipo RX pack. A couple guys use the Novak Booster.

I currently hold the track records in both classes (not bragging but letting you know that I do know a little bit about the gear and how to drive them).
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:56 AM   #36455
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Allow me to give my best advice:

Read the instruction manual of any ESC you buy. If that doesn't say, contact the ESC manufacturer. If in doubt, don't do anything because modern semiconductor chips don't forgive, they fry.
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:00 PM   #36456
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Allow me to give my best advice:

Read the instruction manual of any ESC you buy. If that doesn't say, contact the ESC manufacturer. If in doubt, don't do anything because modern semiconductor chips don't forgive, they fry.
+1 Amen

Always read the manual, it is really your friend.

As the DesertRat said, once you let out the magic smoke you will never be able to get it back in.
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:02 PM   #36457
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Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
I have just acquired a never run sp12 from 1989..
we run 1/18 on our carpet track and they are starting to get hard to get parts for so I want to try this thing out with the idea of switching to 1/12 scale. Our track is about 36 X 24 so its a bit small for 1/12 i think but we shall see.
The sp12 has original novak electronics including servo and doesnt appear to have been run at all so i figure ill strip out the electronics and put in the brushless and give it a go. I assume parts are NOT available so it may be a short experiment.
Our MRS4's that we run are bulletproof they have been run into walls at speed and torpedoed and beaten for years with almost no breakage and we run lipo and brushless. I assume the 1/12 scale stuff isnt that tough but the question i have is typically is slapping a wall / boards enough to break them or do they stand up to SOME beatings ok?
I assume typical breaks are steering knuckles what about rear axles?
Do most manufacturers come out with a new design or upgrade yearly?
no one carries 1/12 scale stuff in our area so we are prob ordering online when it happens are there any manufacturers that u guys recommend(start flame war)..lol
our lhs carries associated so im sure we could get their stuff is it good enough
is that enuff questions for now?
Hi mate, as a collector of original Corally 12th cars, if you have a never used SP12 from 1989, but it back in the box and keep it as a blast from the past, please!! Seriously though, you may be better off picking up a used 12th from ebay or something for cheap and running that. Some parts are still interchangable from differant US based makers where as most Corally parts are unique to Corally, so if you break it, that's that! Well, actually alot of the parts are still used today but if you do the chassis in or the front end, that will be that .
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Old 09-22-2011, 04:47 PM   #36458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Allow me to give my best advice:

Read the instruction manual of any ESC you buy. If that doesn't say, contact the ESC manufacturer. If in doubt, don't do anything because modern semiconductor chips don't forgive, they fry.
Welll i disagree, Im going to read the manual BEFORE i buy it ....lol
I see Novak has a 1 cell speedo that doesnt need a booster (so they say)...
BUT is it a good speedo is the question. I shall do some research and some forum reading and thanks for the good responses from all of you.
we are a group of 6 that race at our own private track soooo what is legal or roar legal doesnt matter to us at all...
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:06 PM   #36459
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi mate, as a collector of original Corally 12th cars, if you have a never used SP12 from 1989, but it back in the box and keep it as a blast from the past, please!! Seriously though, you may be better off picking up a used 12th from ebay or something for cheap and running that. Some parts are still interchangable from differant US based makers where as most Corally parts are unique to Corally, so if you break it, that's that! Well, actually alot of the parts are still used today but if you do the chassis in or the front end, that will be that .
I know that to trash the sp12 will probably upset me down the road but Im putting it up as an experiment as to whether our track will be suitable to run 1/12... so if it meets its end which it shouldn't its not the end of the world...
we are all 50 something so its not like the cost of a car and running gear is gonna kill us we already have thousands invested in off road stuff for our outdoor track and exotec micro rs4's for indoor
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:13 PM   #36460
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Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
we are a group of about 6 racers and we dont go to organised events (well maybe east coast challenge 1/18 race in Nov) so will these work on 2 cell lipos with the throttle turned down and avoid having to do all the 1 cell mods or ordering 1 cell motor esc combos. Or is it an issue getting 2 celll packs to fit?
Sorry for all the newb questions...
were NOT newbs just 1/12 newbs.lol
Do yourself a favor and avoid the whole lipo issue. Since you're a small group of guys running on a private track, use 4cell NiMh and be done with it. Plenty of used T-plate 1/12 out there to be had for a bargain now that everyone in the competitive world has gone 1s lipo with link chassis.

With the 4cell NiMh there are no worries of needing a booster because most speedos have an operating input range down to 4.8V. Heck why don't you go brushed since it is a small track? Plenty of brushed speedos to be had cheap like old LRP Quantums.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:33 PM   #36461
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Do yourself a favor and avoid the whole lipo issue. Since you're a small group of guys running on a private track, use 4cell NiMh and be done with it. Plenty of used T-plate 1/12 out there to be had for a bargain now that everyone in the competitive world has gone 1s lipo with link chassis.

With the 4cell NiMh there are no worries of needing a booster because most speedos have an operating input range down to 4.8V. Heck why don't you go brushed since it is a small track? Plenty of brushed speedos to be had cheap like old LRP Quantums.
Excellent advice but $$$ isnt the issue at all (not like were rich) when we decide on this we will prob order 6 cars 6 servos 6 esc motor combos 6 bodies and 6 different colours of paint...
Its gotta be a spec class for us where we at least start on the same page, not with 6 different cars alll with different spares and setups.
and we gave up on nimh and went lipo on everything 3 or 4 years ago... we DO have a comm lathe still though but its getting dusty
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:28 PM   #36462
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Once you either get an ESC with a built in booster or get a good external one running right it is no hassle. LiPo is so much cleaner looking and easier in maintenance that I feel it is worth it. My only hassle is having to run the wires over the battery instead of all the little cool tricks I could do with round cells...but with the next generation of 1/12th cars running alternate battery locations that will make wiring much easier.
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:41 PM   #36463
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soooo i looked at the carpet knife it looks pretty simple at the front end compared to the associated. They all seem to be using link rear ends which is the same as our exotec mrs4's so its not new to us. the less complicated front end might be an asset as we are going to be newbs at setting this up but how hard can it be?
ya ya ya I know it can be hard getting it 100% but if we can start out with an 80% good setup out of the box we can start tweaking as we go.
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:04 PM   #36464
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soooo i looked at the carpet knife it looks pretty simple at the front end compared to the associated. They all seem to be using link rear ends which is the same as our exotec mrs4's so its not new to us. the less complicated front end might be an asset as we are going to be newbs at setting this up but how hard can it be?
ya ya ya I know it can be hard getting it 100% but if we can start out with an 80% good setup out of the box we can start tweaking as we go.
They are both reactive castor and I think crc based their off of AE

How is it simpler

They both have castor block (start with 5 degree)

Both adjust camber the same including castor spacers

The AE just has blue second piece for lower arm

Last edited by Infinite 12th; 09-22-2011 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:17 PM   #36465
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Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
soooo i looked at the carpet knife it looks pretty simple at the front end compared to the associated. They all seem to be using link rear ends which is the same as our exotec mrs4's so its not new to us. the less complicated front end might be an asset as we are going to be newbs at setting this up but how hard can it be?
ya ya ya I know it can be hard getting it 100% but if we can start out with an 80% good setup out of the box we can start tweaking as we go.
You can't go wrong with the CRC Gen XL. They have excellent parts support and their racers are here in the forum all the time.
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