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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-21-2011, 08:00 PM   #36436
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From what I've read it takes abit to get everything balanced but yes that may be your best option. You might ty looking for some packs in the WTB thread, somebody may have a couple not being used.
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Old 09-21-2011, 08:04 PM   #36437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I believe those have been discontinued
Check HERE
I can confirm that for the saddle packs. Just ordered 2 inline packs today. Couldn't pass up the 5200 50Cs for $25 each.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:32 PM   #36438
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Well, just ordered my CRC Gen-XL, I also bought the second motor mount and the full-boxed pod top plate so its like a Gen-XL+ or something. Hoping to go faster with it, maybe donate my old Carpet Knife to a deserving kid or something.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:36 PM   #36439
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Atta boy. You'll love the new car.
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:21 PM   #36440
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Nah! Always takes a while to get a new car up to speed. Bet he races the old one a couple times yet.
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:28 PM   #36441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
Nah! Always takes a while to get a new car up to speed. Bet he races the old one a couple times yet.
Mabey we'll find out this Sun.
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:30 PM   #36442
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You just couldn't wait a couple more weeks to see what they have coming after the IIC? Well, no big deal. Nothing like a new ride to make you feel like you can go faster.
E
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:46 PM   #36443
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Might not even have it on Sunday, and if cars with the lengthwise battery position put on a good show at the IIC I may get that Speedmerchant conversion kit (another reason to buy the second motor mount), I just wanted to get the kit I intend to race at the Cali ROAR regionals in November.
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:29 AM   #36444
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This may have been ask/said before but this thread is too large and I am lazy to search, not good at gearing and need help with my 1/12 on a 100 ft x 50 ft track indoors using 17.5 DUO 2 no boost, thank you.
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:47 AM   #36445
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Default Corally sp12

I have just acquired a never run sp12 from 1989..
we run 1/18 on our carpet track and they are starting to get hard to get parts for so I want to try this thing out with the idea of switching to 1/12 scale. Our track is about 36 X 24 so its a bit small for 1/12 i think but we shall see.
The sp12 has original novak electronics including servo and doesnt appear to have been run at all so i figure ill strip out the electronics and put in the brushless and give it a go. I assume parts are NOT available so it may be a short experiment.
Our MRS4's that we run are bulletproof they have been run into walls at speed and torpedoed and beaten for years with almost no breakage and we run lipo and brushless. I assume the 1/12 scale stuff isnt that tough but the question i have is typically is slapping a wall / boards enough to break them or do they stand up to SOME beatings ok?
I assume typical breaks are steering knuckles what about rear axles?
Do most manufacturers come out with a new design or upgrade yearly?
no one carries 1/12 scale stuff in our area so we are prob ordering online when it happens are there any manufacturers that u guys recommend(start flame war)..lol
our lhs carries associated so im sure we could get their stuff is it good enough
is that enuff questions for now?
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:19 AM   #36446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Those specs looks like either a SXX Competition or TC Spec Ver. 1 controller. If you want to use boost, I've been told that it would be best to use the TQ Cells booster.
http://www.tqcells.com/BuyTQBOOSTER_In_Stock.htm

I've been told that the Novak 1s booster has problems when running boost.
thank you, but the volac BL2 have no boost settings.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:31 AM   #36447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
I have just acquired a never run sp12 from 1989..
we run 1/18 on our carpet track and they are starting to get hard to get parts for so I want to try this thing out with the idea of switching to 1/12 scale. Our track is about 36 X 24 so its a bit small for 1/12 i think but we shall see.
The sp12 has original novak electronics including servo and doesnt appear to have been run at all so i figure ill strip out the electronics and put in the brushless and give it a go. I assume parts are NOT available so it may be a short experiment.
Our MRS4's that we run are bulletproof they have been run into walls at speed and torpedoed and beaten for years with almost no breakage and we run lipo and brushless. I assume the 1/12 scale stuff isnt that tough but the question i have is typically is slapping a wall / boards enough to break them or do they stand up to SOME beatings ok?
I assume typical breaks are steering knuckles what about rear axles?
Do most manufacturers come out with a new design or upgrade yearly?
no one carries 1/12 scale stuff in our area so we are prob ordering online when it happens are there any manufacturers that u guys recommend(start flame war)..lol
our lhs carries associated so im sure we could get their stuff is it good enough
is that enuff questions for now?
Whoever told you that a 1/12 isn't tough was a liar. I have NEVER seen somebody break a 1/12 scale axle, front arm, chassis plate, or anything like that. The parts I have seen break are body posts, a single steering knuckle, a single bent kingpin, and a few cracked rims. These cars are bricks, they don't break nearly as much as any other class.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:46 AM   #36448
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welll no one told me they were fragile.... I have never seen them run except for on videos... i was just incorrectly assuming... welll i'm gonna load some electronics in this thing and have a go at it and if we can get it around our smallish track it may be our next form of winter entertainment. our track is 24 X 36 with an L shaped part thats 15 X40 so im sure we cant lay out a track thats not as tight as what we use with our MRS4's but I thjink we have enuff area to make a workable 1/12 track

this is the 36X20 section
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:52 AM   #36449
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we are a group of about 6 racers and we dont go to organised events (well maybe east coast challenge 1/18 race in Nov) so will these work on 2 cell lipos with the throttle turned down and avoid having to do all the 1 cell mods or ordering 1 cell motor esc combos. Or is it an issue getting 2 celll packs to fit?
Sorry for all the newb questions...
were NOT newbs just 1/12 newbs.lol
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:06 AM   #36450
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A few friends & I ran 12th scale 4-cell in prep for Cleveland, on a 40x20' track in the showroom of a M/C dealership, a long time ago

Keep the lanes at no more than 3ft width, and you can come up with some pretty creative layouts.

At the speeds you will see on a track that small, I honestly don't see how you break anything.
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