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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 08-11-2003, 07:38 PM   #3631
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For my own understanding, the coned washer that goes on the diff, should pass freely through the hole in the rim of the tire. Correct? It seems that if it didn't it could effect the tension that is being applied to the diff.

If this is correct.

Notice how the washer does not pass freely through the hole.

Size comparison to the Associated washer

Am I wrong or is this not right?
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Old 08-12-2003, 03:29 AM   #3632
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You got Da wrong one. Fer sure.

D. Root

Call or send John at CRC an Email and he will send out the right one right away, can't beat their service.
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Old 08-12-2003, 06:00 AM   #3633
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Flip your reao shock around, so the body is lower. Not only does itr lower your CG, but if something starts to leak, oil will stay in the shock, and allow you to keep running.
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Old 08-12-2003, 07:05 AM   #3634
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thanks!! will do that sir!!! as in now!!!! Peace and happy racing!!
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Old 08-12-2003, 01:08 PM   #3635
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Default Umm

I run my shock up side down to the instructions for 3 reasons.

1. If it gets a little air in it, the air will go to the top of the shock so the piston is working in the bottom where all the oil is.

(my shock has stayed full since February)

2. Its easier to adjust and change springs.

3. The battery fits better for me.
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Old 08-13-2003, 12:31 AM   #3636
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when i had a BrCk i had the adjuster on the shock to the bottom, 'cus when i didnt it leaked and made a right mess of my battereis.

the washer that you have been given is the washer for 2 bolt diffs where the wheel is part of the diff, and so the washer is designed not to go thruough the wheel. as you are running crc wheels u need the aero diff washer which as d.root correctly said is the assocaited washer.

reposting my question.....
can anyone tell me EVERY handling implication of the t bar, what will work when grip is high or low, why, and what difference to handling it mkaes at low and high speed...

and also a shop that stocks all tbars from associated and trinity. pwease!

matt rice
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:38 AM   #3637
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can anyone tell me EVERY handling implication of the t bar, what will work when grip is high or low, why, and what difference to handling it makes at low and high speed...
IMHO- the T-bar cars will "snap back" to level quicker (side to side) which allows you to transition from left to right quicker. On pivot ball cars the side springs are progressive which means they become stiffer as the spring is compressed, so to get the car to return to level faster you need to use stiffer side spring, which can upset handling elsewhere.....

That being said YOU must try both set-ups and look for what feels best for YOU....

Associated only offers 2 thicknesses of T-bars (.063/.075), you won't very often change thicknesses on your car, most likely you will come to the conclusion that one borks better than the other and leave it...... I personally prefer the .075 because the >063 makes my car feel lazy off of the turns to me......
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
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Old 08-13-2003, 09:55 AM   #3638
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yeh i have changed from the brck to the sb2002, i nlike tbar cars better....IMHO

i will be doing all the nats this year and club....so i reckon i may be changing it quite alot. are the trinity thickness's the same?

any luck with shops?
thnx impactplyr 4 your post
matt rice
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Old 08-13-2003, 12:10 PM   #3639
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I don't remember what this does...crc knife....

Placing washers under the link on the pod. Does it give more rear bite or take away rear bite? Or do the washers go under the front of the the link to give more rear bite?

Anyone know?

Also, has anyone tried other tires other than purple fronts and gray rears on carpet? Is there any know benefit to using softer tires when the traction isn't high like it is at major events with hunreds of racers vs. club level?

Again anyone?

Thanks, Eric
AE 12R5.2 (x2) - TC7 - M05 - M05V2R

People who don't have to wait for the latest item, should not tell those that do, that "It's worth the wait"
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Old 08-13-2003, 02:41 PM   #3640
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Default Eric

Pretty hard to beat purple/greay on carpet. At the big races, the traction "comes" with time, it seems to me the compound actually gets into the rug after a few races and traction should be getting better and better.

I don't know about changing the roll center on a CK. Mine is awesome the way it came out of the box except the stiffer center shock spring. Until my driving gets better...................

David Root
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Old 08-13-2003, 04:48 PM   #3641
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As far as the tire combo- I was wondering if using a softer compound was better for club races, or if the traction gained by using the softer copound would just increase tire wear and provide no real gains in performance.

AE 12R5.2 (x2) - TC7 - M05 - M05V2R

People who don't have to wait for the latest item, should not tell those that do, that "It's worth the wait"
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Old 08-15-2003, 11:47 AM   #3642
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Fike- Magenta fronts/Grey rears for modified 12th work great. They are faster (due to more steering) on lower grip tracks where the car "pushes" some and I actually now like them at the big races were the traction really comes up. They actually seem to be more consistent during the run when the traction really comes up vs. the purples which seem to gain more and more traction throughout the run on high/very high bite tracks (which normally occurs on carpet at big races). TM Tires and TRC also make a "cyan" front tire which is a magenta with a thin outside ring of purple and i used these for the second half of the season. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-15-2003, 12:39 PM   #3643
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darnold... yes that helps, I think that I will try the TRC cyan fronts.

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Old 08-15-2003, 07:29 PM   #3644
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guys any tip for rc12l3??
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Old 08-16-2003, 06:16 PM   #3645
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Default 2 motors

okay, i was layin around today, and thought of a new way to make 4wd. Is there a car, i want a 12th scale, that i can put a motor up front, and basically make a touring car out of a pan car, is there a good base car to start this from.
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