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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-20-2011, 12:25 PM   #36391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
The only difference between a 1s speedo and a 2-3s speedo is that a 1s speedo has the booster built in.
Except the Castle Mamba Max Pro 1S which has no internal BEC at all.
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:46 PM   #36392
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
ANY, and I mean ANY ESC should work just fine on 1s with the use of a booster or RX pack. Yes, the TQ and Novak do the same thing. The only difference between a 1s speedo and a 2-3s speedo is that a 1s speedo has the booster built in.
Great. Thank you for the clarification!


Btw, does anyone make a damper tube conversion for the AE R12R5.1?
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:21 PM   #36393
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Btw, does anyone make a damper tube conversion for the AE R12R5.1?
Why? The RC12R5 is damped by the lateral shock which is what the tubes do. It stays clean, easy to change fluid and is very consistent requiring very little maintenance.
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:25 PM   #36394
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Great. Thank you for the clarification!


Btw, does anyone make a damper tube conversion for the AE R12R5.1?
I think the On-Point racing guys were thinking about making one.
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:44 PM   #36395
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Why? The RC12R5 is damped by the lateral shock which is what the tubes do. It stays clean, easy to change fluid and is very consistent requiring very little maintenance.
Yea i can understand why separate side springs but what was the concept behind separate dampers?

Curious minds want to know...lol
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Old 09-20-2011, 02:47 PM   #36396
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Guys who race on really high bite tracks were using such high weight oils in the roll shock that it was locking. Tubes never lock because they hold the damper fluid in sheer. You can use a single tube if it gives you enough damping. The Trinity 22J car had a single long tube. But 2 tubes means you can get the same amount of damping with a thinner fluid and it balances nicely.
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Old 09-20-2011, 02:48 PM   #36397
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I may be wrong on this but...my understanding it is to get even dampening left and right. With a single damper to get the same angle on the damper on both the left and right of the pod it would have to be attached to the center of the pod but that throws the weight off on the car unless you do something like what 3Racing did on their F109 which attaches the center of the damper to the center of the pod. If you attach a damper off-set to one side so that the damper can be centered then the arc in which the pod end of the damper moves is different from left to right. Using 2 damper tubes instead takes a lot of geometry out of trying to figure out where to mount the damper.
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Old 09-20-2011, 03:01 PM   #36398
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
Guys who race on really high bite tracks were using such high weight oils in the roll shock that it was locking. Tubes never lock because they hold the damper fluid in sheer. You can use a single tube if it gives you enough damping. The Trinity 22J car had a single long tube. But 2 tubes means you can get the same amount of damping with a thinner fluid and it balances nicely.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I may be wrong on this but...my understanding it is to get even dampening left and right. With a single damper to get the same angle on the damper on both the left and right of the pod it would have to be attached to the center of the pod but that throws the weight off on the car unless you do something like what 3Racing did on their F109 which attaches the center of the damper to the center of the pod. If you attach a damper off-set to one side so that the damper can be centered then the arc in which the pod end of the damper moves is different from left to right. Using 2 damper tubes instead takes a lot of geometry out of trying to figure out where to mount the damper.
I have seen several differently angled dual tubes as well so their is still some geometry I think depending on how sensitive moving the tubes is

Thanks here are some pics

Tweaking System
The traditional T-Plate design has been given up on the F109. Instead, a special mechanism basing on ball joint is used as the tweaking system to make the chassis more durable and stable. The new rear chassis design deploys a composite of a pair of ball joints and central pivot ball, plus side spring and monoshock as absorber and buffer. The up-and-down rear movement can be controlled entirely through the high capacity central shock.




I think the serpent 12th also has something going on but I can't tell what...lol

Monoshock
Another unique feature of the S120 Link is its laterally mounted floating monoshock which dampens the flex between the chassis and the motor pod.

Mounted using ball joints from the top of the rear motor pod, both ends of the shock shaft are attached to the top of the rear carbon body mount plate on the chassis, and thanks to its design even the smallest of movements between the front and rear of the car is easily absorbed.

This system plays a big part in how the car turns into a corner which can be adjusted through the use of different oils and shock pistons.







It seems to have two things in back controlling damping

Ok I think I just figured it out ...lol

And I think I figured out the F-109 also
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Old 09-20-2011, 03:02 PM   #36399
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
Guys who race on really high bite tracks were using such high weight oils in the roll shock that it was locking. Tubes never lock because they hold the damper fluid in sheer. You can use a single tube if it gives you enough damping. The Trinity 22J car had a single long tube. But 2 tubes means you can get the same amount of damping with a thinner fluid and it balances nicely.
I'm not sure how "they" were able to lock the piston in the AE shock. I'm not even sure if it's possible except by using diff fluids. Since it's a flow through piston design it just moves through the fluid, there is no hydro lock since it damps in compression and extension. The piston does not compress the fluid.

It essentially works the same as the tubes but keeps the dirt out.
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Old 09-20-2011, 03:10 PM   #36400
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They were using fluid so thick it was unable to pass through the gap between the piston and shock body fast enough. On my track the grip is less intense and I like the 2 shock design. The top pros don't. If you find pictures of Marcus Mobers Serpent from the last worlds, you will see he has replaced the Monoshock with tubes.
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Old 09-20-2011, 03:18 PM   #36401
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
They were using fluid so thick it was unable to pass through the gap between the piston and shock body fast enough. On my track the grip is less intense and I like the 2 shock design. The top pros don't. If you find pictures of Marcus Mobers Serpent from the last worlds, you will see he has replaced the Monoshock with tubes.
So they were using something like diff-lock then? What were the tube guys using on their tubes? 100K? How heavy were the springs they were using?

I use 20wt on most tracks and if the grip gets real high I may use 40wt but so far I have not found a track with grip that high. However, I race my AE in 17.5 open boost class so maybe a 4.5 puts higher side loads on the chassis. I don't know.
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Old 09-20-2011, 03:29 PM   #36402
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
I have seen several differently angled dual tubes as well so their is still some geometry I think depending on how sensitive moving the tubes is
Yes there is still some geometry involved...however using 2 tubes the geometry is the same on both sides so you don't have to figure out any differential between both sides.
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Old 09-20-2011, 03:35 PM   #36403
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Default Pivot balls for rear suspension

I'm having a hard time finding pivot balls for the rear suspension for the BMI DB12RR. Aren't these standard hardware for 1/12 link chassis? I found some for the Top Rebel and AE 12R5. Will those work or are they something different?
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Old 09-20-2011, 03:38 PM   #36404
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
I'm having a hard time finding pivot balls for the rear suspension for the BMI DB12RR. Aren't these standard hardware for 1/12 link chassis? I found some for the Top Rebel and AE 12R5. Will those work or are they something different?
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=BMIDB3025

I think these are the ones??? It's been a while since I ran a BMI.
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:17 PM   #36405
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just curious,why do alot people use the crc hub on different cars?Is it any better than the others?if so in what ways because i picked up a speed merchant rev 3 with the "old school" front end and a crc hub for 70$ the other day.
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