R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-17-2011, 10:17 AM   #36361
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Northern & Central Illinois
Posts: 4,337
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Has anyone here used the Novak 1S "Step-Up" booster with a 2S ESC for 12th scale?

I have a Viper VTX10 that I could potentially use for 12th scale, but it is only 2-3S lipo compatible.
Before going to LiFe I tried the Novak Booster and was very disappointed with it. It only puts out 5V and operated erratically, it's very large and without any flat surfaces is difficult to install on the chassis, but it does have pretty LEDs.

I use a very inexpensive charger that I dedicated to charging my LiFe packs for 1/12 and WGT so I free up my main chargers. The charge time for the LiFe pack varies from 8 to 12 minutes (1/12 scale one has to run for 8 minute heats) and usually takes 110mah (for the 1/12) and 90mah for the WGT running 6 minute heats.
AreCee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2011, 10:33 AM   #36362
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,663
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

I know a few drivers(1 actually) that are using the Novak booster but most everyone in our area is using a rec pack or a TQ booster or a booster like what Stomer has on their website. I have not used the esc you refered to but in reading the specs it should work fine with a proper booster or rec pack. I personaly use the TQ booster, been using my original unit for over 3 yrs no issues and I dont have to worry about buying another charger to charge a rec pack.
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2011, 11:59 AM   #36363
Tech Regular
 
LARRY F SR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: pa.
Posts: 328
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Any one have a good motor timing and gearing start for 17.5 blinking
i went to a track that runs mostly blinkly
track straight is 85 ft.
__________________
T.o.p. USA - Photon - EX - S4 - Rebel 12
The Beaver raceway - Horsham raceway - Jackson rc racing - Austintown Hobby
LARRY F SR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2011, 12:34 PM   #36364
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Before going to LiFe I tried the Novak Booster and was very disappointed with it. It only puts out 5V and operated erratically, it's very large and without any flat surfaces is difficult to install on the chassis, but it does have pretty LEDs.
Actually the Novak booster puts out 6v while some of the others are less. Early in the LiPo days I went with the Novak booster with my Tekin RS and it worked just fine but as the software on the RS changed I started having little problems. Apparently the issue is because both the Novak booster and the RS have a voltage cut off that interfere with each other. Someone in the Tekin or earlier in this thread mentioned there is a way to modify the booster to remove the voltage cut off circuit and this is supposed to make it work fine even in boosted classes. I have not yet had a chance to test it as I went to RX packs and recently got the TQ booster (which works great).
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2011, 12:48 PM   #36365
Tech Elite
 
PutAwayWet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,296
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
...there is a way to modify the booster to remove the voltage cut off circuit...
Here you go. Straight from Bob. Just grip with some needle nose pliers and it pops right off.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Smart Boost VC Mod.pdf (161.6 KB, 171 views)
__________________
Todd Mason
Seattle RC Racers

The world ends when you're dead. Until then, you got more punishment in store.
Stand it like a man, and give some back. --Al Swearengen
PutAwayWet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2011, 11:44 PM   #36366
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,379
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

What is the best way to reinforce a body so it doesn't crack at the front wheel arch? I've seen shoe-goo, extra bands of lexan, cutting a flex point into the arch, glue and fiberglass sheet, and it seems like the body still cracks right at the top of the wheel arch. Any success stories to share?
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 12:12 AM   #36367
Tech Adept
 
spacendeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Voorhout, Netherlands
Posts: 236
Send a message via MSN to spacendeman
Default

Hi, I got a question.
I'm going to drive the corally 12SL indoor this winter, but now I have a question about the centershock, what other shocks can be used on the 12sl?
__________________
Currently:
Serpent F110 SF2 with Hobbywing ETS setup.
Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0 with ETS Stock setup
Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0 with ETS Stock setup as rain car.
Serpent S120 LTR with 10.5 blinky mode.
spacendeman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 12:15 AM   #36368
Tech Adept
 
spacendeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Voorhout, Netherlands
Posts: 236
Send a message via MSN to spacendeman
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
What is the best way to reinforce a body so it doesn't crack at the front wheel arch? I've seen shoe-goo, extra bands of lexan, cutting a flex point into the arch, glue and fiberglass sheet, and it seems like the body still cracks right at the top of the wheel arch. Any success stories to share?
I use Zapp a Dapp for the weak points of the body, it last longer and it doesn't crack in one crash.. ( hard crashes not tested )
__________________
Currently:
Serpent F110 SF2 with Hobbywing ETS setup.
Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0 with ETS Stock setup
Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0 with ETS Stock setup as rain car.
Serpent S120 LTR with 10.5 blinky mode.
spacendeman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 12:24 AM   #36369
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,379
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spacendeman View Post
Hi, I got a question.
I'm going to drive the corally 12SL indoor this winter, but now I have a question about the centershock, what other shocks can be used on the 12sl?
Corally uses the nice and easy threaded ball end on the shock of their car, so any shock that uses the same should be easy to retrofit, like the old style associated shock or CRC's Encore shock.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 07:28 AM   #36370
Tech Adept
 
spacendeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Voorhout, Netherlands
Posts: 236
Send a message via MSN to spacendeman
Default

ok tnx man!
__________________
Currently:
Serpent F110 SF2 with Hobbywing ETS setup.
Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0 with ETS Stock setup
Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0 with ETS Stock setup as rain car.
Serpent S120 LTR with 10.5 blinky mode.
spacendeman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 10:50 AM   #36371
Tech Champion
 
YR4Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 5,625
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
What is the best way to reinforce a body so it doesn't crack at the front wheel arch? I've seen shoe-goo, extra bands of lexan, cutting a flex point into the arch, glue and fiberglass sheet, and it seems like the body still cracks right at the top of the wheel arch. Any success stories to share?
I use this.

http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0001p?&I=HPIC9009

It does a decent job of holding your body together but its not "bullet proof". However its better than Shoe Goo because it doesn't add much weight.

Have you tried putting a bumper on the car? That way your body won't compress so hard on impact.
YR4Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 11:05 AM   #36372
Tech Master
 
LonnyJ1950's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ. USA
Posts: 1,141
Default

I used the oval shaped pieces of tape in the Parma body repair kit, and they seemed to work quite well.
__________________
Lonny
LonnyJ1950 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 11:22 AM   #36373
Tech Adept
 
spacendeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Voorhout, Netherlands
Posts: 236
Send a message via MSN to spacendeman
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sinewaves View Post
good old duct tape son hahaha
hahaha that works too!
__________________
Currently:
Serpent F110 SF2 with Hobbywing ETS setup.
Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0 with ETS Stock setup
Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0 with ETS Stock setup as rain car.
Serpent S120 LTR with 10.5 blinky mode.
spacendeman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 12:47 PM   #36374
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Northern & Central Illinois
Posts: 4,337
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spacendeman View Post
hahaha that works too!
The extra weight helps keep the front end planted.

I use wallboard repair mesh tape and a thin coating of Shoe-Goo, doesn't add a lot of weight and works really well.
AreCee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 06:56 PM   #36375
Tech Addict
 
rc_square24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Tire truer, 1s batteries, r5.1 for sale

M11x / LRP Touch / Photon / 12R5.1 / Batteries / Tire Truer / x12 13.5 / ESC + MORE!!

Thanks
rc_square24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:53 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0