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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-14-2011, 10:03 PM   #36331
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Thanks for the info RedBull. BTW, Red Bull is my favorite F1 team
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:52 AM   #36332
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If you don't want to run a booster, you can run the Tekin on either a 1s or 2s LiPo Rx pack.
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1/12 forum-tekin-rs-1s-lipo-rx-pack-schematic.jpg   1/12 forum-rs-1s-2s-wiring.jpg  
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:55 AM   #36333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vector03cobra View Post
Ok with that said anyone able to put together a short list of good 1/12 scale servos

Thanks for your time and effort guys
Analogue

Futaba 9602

Digital

KO 951
Futaba 9650
JR Z3650
Sanwa/Airtronics SRG-HR.

I've used the 9650 before, very good indeed. I use the JR at the moment, it's just as good but smaller, thinking of giving the Sanwa a go though.

Trev
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:15 AM   #36334
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
thinking of giving the Sanwa a go though.

Trev
I have heard that they have centering issues.

Has anyone seen the new high-end servos from Hi-Tec? I know they've stepped up their game and their larger servos are gaining respect. I wonder how these new digital, high-voltage minis will work.....
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Old 09-15-2011, 02:22 AM   #36335
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Even if they are getting better...I don't think I could ever put my trust in one of their servos unless I had to.
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:20 PM   #36336
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Even if they are getting better...I don't think I could ever put my trust in one of their servos unless I had to.
While this isn't a mini servo, I bought a $70 Hitec carbonite gear servo five years ago, ran it in buggy, truck, touring car, the thing has hundreds of races on it, and it still works great.
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Old 09-15-2011, 02:36 PM   #36337
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But the $60 Futaba keeps running and running and ......

Seriously, Hitec has vastly improved their reliability and longevity with their digital servos. It used to be that you bought two Hitecs and used one until it died then send it back while installing the second one which would fail by the time you got the first one back.
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:54 PM   #36338
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^^^^^^ Now that's funny
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:02 PM   #36339
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Alrighty, been looking around for a 12th scale to get my fix of RC during the winter. There are quit a few different chassis out there. Is picking one just a matter of personnel preference.... parts availiable...etc....? Is one kit better than the other?... Or... do I need to pick one chassis and change the front and run it with a different rear axel....?

Xray
CRC
Associated
Rebal
CEFX
BMI
Corally
????????????
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:25 PM   #36340
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If you run a car from a manufacturer in another class that you're happy with, you'll probably be happy with their 1/12TH car too. AE and CRC are the most readily available. I like Serpent, though lately I've been playing with a BMI and am pretty happy with it. Jason at BMI provides the most personal service I've found. That said, I would see what some of the good racers at your track are running, if you have a problem it's nice to have someone who understands your car and can help you deal with it.
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Old 09-15-2011, 05:51 PM   #36341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil2112 View Post
Alrighty, been looking around for a 12th scale to get my fix of RC during the winter. There are quit a few different chassis out there. Is picking one just a matter of personnel preference.... parts availiable...etc....? Is one kit better than the other?... Or... do I need to pick one chassis and change the front and run it with a different rear axel....?

Xray
CRC
Associated
Rebal
CEFX
BMI
Corally
????????????
I have some pretty decent experience and have had sponsors when I was into it before, although I could not get into it like my past friends because of school and work obligations, but this was a much different time than now regarding 12th scale kits! It used to be a time when only the top drivers would have certain "hooked" up tires or parts now every car is competitive and wins and their are no "secret tires" Pretty much AE has ruled for many years say after 92'/93' when the new ft end came out by Cliff L.

But lately all cars look the same given that they have slightly different RC's and perhaps wheel base difference so I think in IHMO they will all work fine

The rebel looks good and the AE also although I will get the Yokomo cause I like their energy and new ft end

Probably the best bet is to go with the car the fastest driver has since he would be able to help you with setup's

lol
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:03 PM   #36342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
If you run a car from a manufacturer in another class that you're happy with, you'll probably be happy with their 1/12TH car too. AE and CRC are the most readily available. I like Serpent, though lately I've been playing with a BMI and am pretty happy with it. Jason at BMI provides the most personal service I've found. That said, I would see what some of the good racers at your track are running, if you have a problem it's nice to have someone who understands your car and can help you deal with it.
Im driving a T3 11... I like it. Not real sure why I picked it... but it gets the job the done sometimes. When It doesnt... well, its my driving. Ive ran a corrally SPX12 in the past but that was b4 Lipos got real big. Dont know to much about the 12th scale cars... they all look very similar. I figure with the 10th scale its pretty much the setup and the driver thats making the car look good. Kinda thinking the samething with 12th scale... its all personnel preference. Was looking at the Griffin but really dont want to mix and match. Probably going to go with a Associated because of the availiabiltyof the parts. Thanx for your input....
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:03 PM   #36343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil2112 View Post
Alrighty, been looking around for a 12th scale to get my fix of RC during the winter. There are quit a few different chassis out there. Is picking one just a matter of personnel preference.... parts availiable...etc....? Is one kit better than the other?... Or... do I need to pick one chassis and change the front and run it with a different rear axel....?

Xray
CRC
Associated
Rebal
CEFX
BMI
Corally
????????????
I see you're in VA Beach, if you're going to run at DRCW this winter, the most popular chassis [with parts support in the shop] would be CRC or T.O.P. There are a couple guys running AE [which I think also has decent shop support], and at least one usually running a CEFX Griffin, and I run BMI, both of which are going to require keeping more spares on hand.

I've also seen some Corally's and XRay's run the track, but nobody I can think of right off has one right now.

They're all fast with the right setup and driver ability.
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:08 PM   #36344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil2112 View Post
Im driving a T3 11... I like it. Not real sure why I picked it... but it gets the job the done sometimes. When It doesnt... well, its my driving. Ive ran a corrally SPX12 in the past but that was b4 Lipos got real big. Dont know to much about the 12th scale cars... they all look very similar. I figure with the 10th scale its pretty much the setup and the driver thats making the car look good. Kinda thinking the samething with 12th scale... its all personnel preference. Was looking at the Griffin but really dont want to mix and match. Probably going to go with a Associated because of the availiabiltyof the parts. Thanx for your input....
Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
I see you're in VA Beach, if you're going to run at DRCW this winter, the most popular chassis [with parts support in the shop] would be CRC or T.O.P. There are a couple guys running AE [which I think also has decent shop support], and at least one usually running a CEFX Griffin, and I run BMI, both of which are going to require keeping more spares on hand.

I've also seen some Corally's and XRay's run the track, but nobody I can think of right off has one right now.

They're all fast with the right setup and driver ability.
Dudes, One of the things I like about this new era of 12th scale is that I honestly believe all cars, except with the "old school ft end", are going to be competitive

As far as I know there are no more tire, battery or motors wars so we get the opportunity to see who's the best at set up's and driving not who's got the hook up like before

This makes me very excited and enthusiastic for myself and for other drivers to feel part of the sport not left out cause of product "secrecy" and so forth

An very exciting time IMHO
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:16 PM   #36345
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Dudes, One of the things I like about this new era of 12th scale is that I honestly believe all cars, except with the "old school ft end", are going to be competitive

As far as I know there are no more tire, battery or motors wars so we get the opportunity to see who's the best at set up's and driving not who's got the hook up like before

This makes me very excited and enthusiastic for myself and for other drivers to feel part of the sport not left out cause of product "secrecy" and so forth

An very exciting time IMHO
Well said & thanx for the inputs...Gotta get my fix of RC.
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