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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-13-2011, 06:01 PM   #36301
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From my understanding the new chassis will support several different battery mounting locations including in-line but off-set as well as a battery forward placement which works very well on the BMI WGT car. Here is a prototype pic that was posted in the Copperhead 12 thread. It has the AE front end on it for testing but the new front end will bolt right on:
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:43 PM   #36302
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Originally Posted by Shangrila View Post
Surprised and very excited to see Tamiya is reviving the RM line with a 'new' 1/12 comong out in December.

It's simple (front end is 26 year old design! ) but that could mean successful

That new RM is cool, thanks for finding that !

Looks like it will use rubber tires for realism.
Something like the Yokomo GT500 12th scales, but more Retro.


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Old 09-13-2011, 07:52 PM   #36303
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Talking 2011 ROAR 12th Scale Indoor On-Road Regionals

TQ RC Racing will be hosting 2011 ROAR Region 12 Indoor On Road Electric Championship on November 13, 2011.

Track is located at 13871 Oaks Avenue, Chino, CA 91710.

Classes will be 1/12th & 1/10 scale Electric.

For more information, contact Sean Park at TQ RC Racing 909.627.2800
email: tq@tqracing.com
http://www.tqrcracing.com/

2011 ROAR 12th Scale On-Road Regionals


Who's down for some awesome carpet racing in So Cal this Winter !
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:14 PM   #36304
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Some amazing racing
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:24 PM   #36305
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Looks like it was meant to be powered by a 4-cell stick pack. Are you sure they posted the right picture? By the looks of things this could be a concept car from 20 years ago. Very un-Tamiya-ish.
i think tamiya are lipo haters, has there been a lipo friendly tamiya car to date?
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:42 PM   #36306
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i think tamiya are lipo haters, has there been a lipo friendly tamiya car to date?
Well, that may explain it. Personally I think that LiFe cells can work, its just that they have some catching up to do.
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:22 PM   #36307
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Well, that may explain it. Personally I think that LiFe cells can work, its just that they have some catching up to do.
Actually LiFe cells are very cool and I have used them in my 1/12 cars, still do at club races from time to time. The issue with them is that the sub-c sized cells do not have mah, and the larger cells that are in use outside the US are an awkward size and construction at this time. But thay have many advantages over lipo.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:31 AM   #36308
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i think tamiya are lipo haters, has there been a lipo friendly tamiya car to date?
Tamiya are lipo haters,you didnt know. You can not use them at any Tamiya event or any Tamiya circuit,been this way for about 3 years.
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Old 09-14-2011, 03:09 AM   #36309
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
From my understanding the new chassis will support several different battery mounting locations including in-line but off-set as well as a battery forward placement which works very well on the BMI WGT car. Here is a prototype pic that was posted in the Copperhead 12 thread. It has the AE front end on it for testing but the new front end will bolt right on:
ok I see that all my pictures in min T*Star12 thread are gone need to do some work here .

The servo is on the same place as the Car I Made after Las Vegas IIC 2010
I use the ball bearing from the font CRC Car.

If you want to have two spare BMI fontend. I have two, on is in parts, the other I have care full put together, can bring it to Las Vegas if you are interested, the Axel are out, as I use it on my other front end, price give me an offer.

I'm thinking off posting picture off one off my Cars, I will not post pictures off my 17.5 blink Car as I want to keep that a secret until IIC 2011

Looking forward to see you in Las Vegas :-)

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Old 09-14-2011, 03:47 AM   #36310
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Hey Alf!

Yeah I haven't seen you post anything in awhile on your car and would like to see what you are working on. I'm sure I'll see it in person at the IIC though As for the BMI front end...I've got 2 now and a 3rd on the way so I'm good for now thanks
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:44 PM   #36311
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If your car is scrubbing speed in corners and you need to put huge amounts of power back into it to keep going, would loosening the car and reducing steering angle help a bit? It just seems that as my local tracks traction has come up my car seems less and less efficient in the bends, on the power a lot more, using another 1000+ milli-amp hours from my battery, and recording the hottest motor temps I have seen from my 1s.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:38 PM   #36312
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If your car is scrubbing speed in corners and you need to put huge amounts of power back into it to keep going, would loosening the car and reducing steering angle help a bit? It just seems that as my local tracks traction has come up my car seems less and less efficient in the bends, on the power a lot more, using another 1000+ milli-amp hours from my battery, and recording the hottest motor temps I have seen from my 1s.
What tires/dia, how much are you saucing, and what sauce are you using Rat ?
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:11 PM   #36313
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Quick question.... any recommendations for a 17.5 motor that works well for 12th? Tight indoor carpet, if it matters. No boost. Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:15 PM   #36314
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What tires/dia, how much are you saucing, and what sauce are you using Rat ?
I run Jaco Yellow rears, Jaco Lilac fronts, about 43mm rear, 41 or so in the front, original Paragon with a full sauce in the rear and the inner half on the front, and the car turns about a 3.5 foot circle in steering throw with the servo in the 'stand up' orientation. The class is boosted 13.5. It was very fast and easy to drive it just scrubbed a lot of speed and needed a lot of power to keep going.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:17 PM   #36315
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Quick question.... any recommendations for a 17.5 motor that works well for 12th? Tight indoor carpet, if it matters. No boost. Thanks in advance.
I recommend the LRP X12 motor, and don't gear based on motor temp (it will NEVER get hot in 17.5) change your gearing based only on lap times.
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