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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-09-2003, 06:38 PM   #3616
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
dont use the dress turnbuckles, they are a pain to adjust, just get some normal steel or Ti ones, since its so much easier to adjust your links (which is a very sensative adjustment, so the abilty to easily turn it a 1/16 of a turn is nice). and its an American car so all standard screws will work.

I am glad to see that you have seen the light and you are weaning yourself of the darkside!
Ok, I think I'll do that. Thanks stormperson. I think I'll try to find some titanium pieces because they're still lighter than steel pieces. In the 4-40 rod ends, I see they're split so you can tighten them as they get a little bit of play in them from use, I believe that's what someone said earlier. I was wondering if they came with the screw to tighten them or if that is a seperate item? If the screw is seperate, than does anyone know where I can get it? Thanks in advance .
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Old 08-09-2003, 08:00 PM   #3617
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i am pretty sure it comes with it. however its a tiny screw so its not exactly standard, however AE has started to use it alot in their new kits (NTC3, T/B4). its the same size as the screws used to hold in the hingepins, however if you get an AE screw make sure it is long enough, since the short ones are only a few mm long.

also its not nessessary but for the extra buck or two pick up a set of side link o-rings. they basically scretch out the side link capture thingie so it doesnt bind, and they work wonders. you install them between the two sides of the sidelink. i know my description doesnt make any sense, however when you see them and the side links it will. possibly a more awake and cogniscent forum member could describe what i am trying to say in a way that could be understood...

and dont worry about the weigh difference between Ti and Steel. Ti is actually rather heavy (much more so than aluminuim) however it can be lighten by drilling and machining it out since it is strong. however you dont exactly drill or machine out a turnbuckle, so the weight saving are negligable, and i have never seen a broken side link, so i wouldnt worry about durability. its an eye candy piece more than anything (as are 99% of hop ups on a 12th scale)
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Old 08-10-2003, 03:19 PM   #3618
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The new car in the stable.

I have raced Nitro since day 1, and currently an MRX-3 for the last 2 years. Recently a carpet track opened up in town so I thought that I would refine my skills with a 1:12 scale.

Car : Bloody Carpet Knife
Radio : JR Racing R1
ESC : LRP Quantum Competition
Receiver : Novak XXL
Servo : Hitec HS-5245MG (JR Servo on order)


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Old 08-10-2003, 10:29 PM   #3619
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Ran the car tonight for the first time. It seemed to me that I spent a lot of my time fixing broken parts which kept me from tuning the car. Also, I'm learning battery care and maintenance. There's a lot to do and learn still.

My observations so far about the Carpet Knife, specifically the Team car (bloody knife).

The front axels are crap. Broke one right off the bat, the other axel bent with a slight touch to the outside wall (made of concrete). I replaced them with Parma axels and throughly crash tested them, no problems at all. It amazes me that Calandra is shipping cars with these things.

The cone washer on the diff that they ship with the car needs to be replaced with an Associated one. It will not fit, plain and simple. Again, I can not be the only person that has had this problem. Why continue to use them?

All aluminum screws need to be replaced. They are to fragile.

The assembly instructions have a lot to be desired. Improvement could be made here also.

I'm racing again in three days, hopefully I can spend some time working on the tuning of the chassis and my driving style.
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Old 08-10-2003, 10:58 PM   #3620
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I've heard that all 1/12th scale car instructions are not too good. But I've heard the 12L3 has pretty good instructions. That's where calendra gets a lot of the instructions for the carpet knife.

I have aluminum screws on my tc3 and I haven't broken one. So I haven't come to hate them.... yet .

I've never had any problems with anything breaking on this car except the side link hex balls, and that's why I'm changing to Speedmerchent side links. I do have the old style front end, which I bought because people say its better. And I tend to believe them, because I've never broken anything on it. And there's no play in it either. You gotta love it .

And my cone washer on my diff works perfectly fine. So I'm not complaining about it. Mabey you got a kit where everything is faulty , just kiddin. I hope you get all your problems worked out on your kit though because 1/12th scale is a blast to drive . But it looks like all of the things you're having problems with are pretty easy to fix so far.
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Old 08-11-2003, 11:03 AM   #3621
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Default Body Posts

I think I've ruined a brand new freshly cut Ascari body. I did not realize that the 12L3 front body posts would not work with that body. Do they work with any style body?

What body posts are people using?

John
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Old 08-11-2003, 12:54 PM   #3622
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manbik
My The front axels are crap. Broke one right off the bat, the other axel bent with a slight touch to the outside wall (made of concrete). I replaced them with Parma axels and throughly crash tested them, no problems at all. It amazes me that Calandra is shipping cars with these things.

The cone washer on the diff that they ship with the car needs to be replaced with an Associated one. It will not fit, plain and simple. Again, I can not be the only person that has had this problem. Why continue to use them?

All aluminum screws need to be replaced. They are to fragile.

The assembly instructions have a lot to be desired. Improvement could be made here also.

I'm racing again in three days, hopefully I can spend some time working on the tuning of the chassis and my driving style.
EASY KILLER!!!! Are you attempting to drive your 1/12 the same that you dirve a gas sedan? If so no wonder why you broke....

Aluminum screws can not be wrenched on with a ape type grip, some care is required...

Also sometimes you have to crawl before you can walk, let alone run

The instructions could be better, but would you prefer to have an RTR kit?

Eric

Relax, enjoy life.
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Old 08-11-2003, 01:22 PM   #3623
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my lhs started stocking crc parts, i was looking at side dampner tubes in particular, i am wondering if they will bolt up to my 12l3 and replace the friction disk thing and if i need any additional parts to complete the change over or if it is even worth the $. in winter we run on a small carpet track. thanks
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Old 08-11-2003, 02:13 PM   #3624
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CRC actually sells a dampener tube conversion for the 12L3 that comes with the dampener tubes and rear chassis brace and top plate that they would connect too. I beleive it even comes with the side springs that ultimately convert the 12L3 into a Six Pack setup that CRC also sells as an alternative to the carpet knife. I beleive the conversion runs about $30

Bob
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Old 08-11-2003, 02:13 PM   #3625
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I haven't broke a screw and stripped one due to assembly. I broke one in an 'incident'. My train of thought is that if it broke once, it can break again. Better to replace them with something better and if one screw is capable of breaking, then all the aluminum screws have the same vulnerability. I will never loose a race to the same breakage twice if it can be prevented. Yea I know, there are flaws in my theory.

I have an idea with the link hex ball and will be trying it out tonight. If it works, I'll post pictures and part numbers tonight.

I wouldn't say that it's a faulty kit. Just my own personal opinion but I believe that there are parts that could be better, and I will replace those as I go along. It's a good car and I am glad that I got it. I just need to learn more about it and learn what parts I need to carry with me and more importantly, learn how to drive it like an electric car and not like 1:8 Scale GP.
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Old 08-11-2003, 02:16 PM   #3626
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manbik- its not a MRX-3!!!! you cannot hit a concrete wall and expect nothing to happen (although i highly doubt you could pull off hitting the wall with the mugen and not have to replace something). these cars are made to run on carpet with plastic covered wooden walls that are more forgiving. however if you hit anything expect there to possibly be some damage. i have never before heard of an axle actually breaking, so congradulations! You are the first to my knowledge.

the cone washer should be fine on the diff, what is exaclty wrong with yours? and BTW i suggest replacing the stock 6 ball diff with an IRS 12 ball one, you will thank yourself once you do.

iron chef- yes you can do that. infact i think mike dumas did that as well on his rc12l3 when i saw his car at the '03 carpet nats.

john robb- there are alot of things that should work. try speedmerchant body posts, which are i think pretty much the same thing as the NTC3 front body posts which are probably the same as the rc10 DS or whatever posts. if you want to keep the stock posts you could dremel or grind them down to lower them.
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Old 08-11-2003, 02:31 PM   #3627
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I'll have to take a picture of the track someday. In the back room of the hobby shop is the carpet track. In the center of the room is the carpet and around the outside they made this half height wall out of brick and concrete. The lane dividers are nice and forgiving but dont take the turn to sharp that is at the end of the straight. If you do, the lane divider will launch your car right into the outside brick wall.

If I concentrate, I hit my marks pretty well and run a nice clean line. If I get out of my rhythm or get distracted, then I go into Nitro mode and hit the corners to soon thinking that the car will push a bit before the turn, but it doesnt and then... well I have another incident.

Oh, the cone washer is just to big in diameter. It appears to me that once the differential is assembled the right rear tire should go over the cone washer easily, allowing you to bolt the tire to the hub. Mine gets stuck on the washer. I'll take a picture tonigt of the Associated washer next to the one that came in the kit.

Last edited by Manbik; 08-11-2003 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 08-11-2003, 04:29 PM   #3628
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Jason,

The alu screws are more fragile than steel, and thats the beauty of it. its cheaper and easier to replace a screw than replace a broken chassie. When you learn to drive 1/12 properly you will think that driving 1/8 is clumpsy and slow
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Old 08-11-2003, 04:32 PM   #3629
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Default CK 3.1

I have broken few things on my CK. I bent a King Pin, and sheared a front axle right off, but I was driving crazy, and asked for it. I HAVE broken about 6 bumpers. They take up the shock, and save my front tires and front suspension. Some thing will break, so I choose a $4.99 bumper. I have bent the screws that hold the bumper on, but you get new ones with the bumper.

I chose the 3.1 not red version because of the al screws. Just don't like em or need em.

Last week, I was practicing with my CK at a parking lot race, and got punted by a TC. The thing went an easy three feet into the air. It bounced, rolled and landed on its side. Somebody righted it and away I went.

Last, I have an L30 I race with a T-Bar, and the carpet knife, I find the CK MUCH easier to set up. Thinking of trying a Pantoura next year in the parking lot.

David Root

Freshly painted Speed8 waiting to race!!
The tequilla Sunrise.
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Old 08-11-2003, 06:37 PM   #3630
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Default 12L3 with CRC Damper Tubes

Quote:
Originally posted by iron chef
my lhs started stocking crc parts, i was looking at side dampner tubes in particular, i am wondering if they will bolt up to my 12l3 and replace the friction disk thing and if i need any additional parts to complete the change over or if it is even worth the $. in winter we run on a small carpet track. thanks
I did not know CRC makes a conversion for the 12L3, did my one conversion! Still needs tuning to be able to say it really works!
here is my car. Peace!!
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