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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-05-2011, 01:40 PM   #36226
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
The way I view tire compound and size is a combination of forward grip, and side grip.

For instance a softer compound generally will have more grip overall, but can cause issues on a high bite surface.
By using a smaller diameter you can reduce the side grip, while retaining most of the forward grip, to a point.

For stock 17.5 blinky you can run very small dia tires, as the side grip for this class isn't as demanding as it is in mod, where corner entry speeds are much higher.

Indoor track setups will work better with smaller dia tires due to the extreme grip level.
On Outdoor tracks full size tires with a rounded edge can be optimum if you're looking for maximum grip.
is there a "minimum"recomendation for tyre sizes ?? i usually true to 42mm front 44mm rear , but i see some drivers all the way down to 39mm front 41mm rear
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Old 09-05-2011, 02:15 PM   #36227
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What do you guys know about exotic compounds

Are they mostly used outdoors

And although offset plays a factor and is different between wheel makers I wanted to know are the wheels the same diameter?
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:17 PM   #36228
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I Only run club racing and I am cheap so I like to start my tires at about 48mm (mine come at 50 and I like to get them round by my standards so it takes a little bit to get them the way I like) For the rears and the Fronts I just deglaze the surface.

Now I do get chunking and I have a lot of old tires that when I get some free time I just cut off the rims with an exacto knife and put into Zip top bags labelled with their compound.

So when it comes time to fix a tire I have lots of bits to use and contact cement them onto the tire and re-true it to a uniform size and then I do the fronts to about 2-4 mm smaller than the rears but I also chunk the fronts too so the same applies.

I have been known to test different compounds together too like pink/magenta or Yellow/black and even Magenta/black Just too see what effect mixing compounds on the outer edge (like 1cm tops) does to traction and chunking

our track changes with temperature and I like to have 2-3 different kinds of tire just incase.
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:29 PM   #36229
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in my opinion I always run bigger tires in spec classes. Gives the car a chance to roll more. Makes it easier to drive. You cant run bigger tires in mod. Mod cars do not like big tires at all.
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:53 PM   #36230
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Here are a few setups with similar tires sizes for stock and mod.
Slightly larger rear dia.
Though different compounds, at the same event.

Mod

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...09IICsetup.pdf

Stock

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...09IICsetup.pdf
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:05 PM   #36231
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Hey just quick question.

Is Tekin still the ESC for 12 scale or is there a better and/or more user friendly esc for single cell out there.

The reason for asking is I have a Teking It's in my wgt. and don't really want to do the swap thing. So looking for a new esc for the GenXL.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:19 PM   #36232
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Originally Posted by cyrrus View Post
Hey just quick question.

Is Tekin still the ESC for 12 scale or is there a better and/or more user friendly esc for single cell out there.

The reason for asking is I have a Teking It's in my wgt. and don't really want to do the swap thing. So looking for a new esc for the GenXL.

Thanks in advance.
I'm putting in the Hobbywing 120A 1S Programmable ESC

No heat sink or fan needed for 1 cell and integrated booster also capable of running a 2 cell

All the Features also great price and Loads of support on the forums here.

running it in my GenX 1/12th 10.5 boosted Should be fun
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:24 PM   #36233
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Originally Posted by cyrrus View Post
Hey just quick question.

Is Tekin still the ESC for 12 scale or is there a better and/or more user friendly esc for single cell out there.

The reason for asking is I have a Teking It's in my wgt. and don't really want to do the swap thing. So looking for a new esc for the GenXL.

Thanks in advance.
The LRP Stock Spec V2 is an excellent 1s ESC, it requires no booster as well and when paired with the X12 motor it gives monster power at very low gearings for spec classes. I run 13.5 boosted at the recommended 55mm of rollout on slow-ramp and its great. A well-running Tekin can be similar in performance, but I like the LRP.
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:16 PM   #36234
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in my opinion I always run bigger tires in spec classes. Gives the car a chance to roll more. Makes it easier to drive. You cant run bigger tires in mod. Mod cars do not like big tires at all.
Really!?!?? As a lifer in 12th stock, I greatly prefer smaller tires. My corner speed is damn near ALWAYS better with itty-bitties, than it is with meat on the sidewalls, unless the track is LOW-bite. You are, of course, WAY faster than me, so I bow to your experience, sorta.

Champs BABY!!!!
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:57 AM   #36235
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Here are a few setups with similar tires sizes for stock and mod.
Slightly larger rear dia.
Though different compounds, at the same event.

Mod

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...09IICsetup.pdf

Stock

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...09IICsetup.pdf
hmmmm interesting , I am new to 1/12th last year was my 1st year , but i was told "Always have 2mm differance between front and rear tyres i see on your stock set up you had 1mm ,

can you tell me what this gives ???

Thanks Phil
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:59 AM   #36236
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Any gearing recomendations for an LRP SXX stock with a 10.5? Im just starting out and have no idea where to start.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:29 AM   #36237
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Any gearing recomendations for an LRP SXX stock with a 10.5? Im just starting out and have no idea where to start.
SXX V2 manual says that boosted 10.5 should run about 48mm of rollout with the X12 motor, and though it doesn't say I think it would be a little more with a different motor, like 52 or 53. Just use slow-ramp boost setting 3 or 5 and it should be fine
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:55 AM   #36238
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hmmmm interesting , I am new to 1/12th last year was my 1st year , but i was told "Always have 2mm differance between front and rear tyres i see on your stock set up you had 1mm ,

can you tell me what this gives ???

Thanks Phil
Those setups are from Team CRC drivers. not me.
Opinions and setup taste vary, you have to find what is comfortable for your style.
The 2mm offset is more of a "guideline"
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Old 09-06-2011, 01:14 PM   #36239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Those setups are from Team CRC drivers. not me.
Opinions and setup taste vary, you have to find what is comfortable for your style.
The 2mm offset is more of a "guideline"
I use tire diameter split as a tuning aid. If you need more steering, reduce the split. If you need less steering, increase the split. 2mm difference is a good starting point for 1/12th.
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:55 PM   #36240
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Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
I use tire diameter split as a tuning aid. If you need more steering, reduce the split. If you need less steering, increase the split. 2mm difference is a good starting point for 1/12th.

interesting info, so when you reduce the split is this referring to same size front to rear, and less steering front smaller and larger rear's, I've never though about using tire size as a tuning ad.

Thanks
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