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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-30-2011, 12:44 PM   #36211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
I'm going through my front end and have a question for you more experienced 1/12 shoes. When I mount the lower arms on my CRC, there is about 1/4mm difference from left to right in the measurement from the bottom of the arm to my setup board. Is that close enough?
It seems the difference is in the thickness of the chassis but I didn't have my calipers with me. I'll measure it next time I work on it.
If it is truly a "thickness of the chassis difference" then that is a lot as I think the chassis is 2.5 mm thick!!! I would be suspect of the lower control arm. It might be tweaked or bent. Sometimes when the release molded parts from the molds, they are still warm and distort during the ejection process. Take the lower control arms off of the chassis and then place them on your setup board, facing pivot ball boss to pivot ball boss, press down on both of the control arms where the screw holes are and see if one is higher than the other at the pivot ball boss.
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:57 PM   #36212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
If it is truly a "thickness of the chassis difference" then that is a lot as I think the chassis is 2.5 mm thick!!! I would be suspect of the lower control arm. It might be tweaked or bent. Sometimes when the release molded parts from the molds, they are still warm and distort during the ejection process. Take the lower control arms off of the chassis and then place them on your setup board, facing pivot ball boss to pivot ball boss, press down on both of the control arms where the screw holes are and see if one is higher than the other at the pivot ball boss.
I found that one of my 4mm spacers measured 3.9m. I also found that the chassis was raised up around the mounting holes a bit, must have over torqued the screws or maybe it happened on one of the many hard hits my driving offers. I sanded that down and replaced the 4mm spacer, now the two sides are very close.
Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:33 PM   #36213
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I don't even check if my car is balanced anymore, it just depresses me, as long as it turns equally left and right I just drive it like I stole it.

Its a frankencar, it will never die.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:59 AM   #36214
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In order to get a good groove worn into carpet is it necessary to run a sticky natural-rubber tire, such as a Jaco Pink or Purple, or is there no difference compared to the low natural rubber tires such as Jaco Yellow or Grey? Just asking because at my home track we have to run Yellow or Orange rear tires for the most part due to dust and the grove never seems to stick as well as other tracks I have seen.

This might be one of those Catch-22's where you cant run sticky natural rubber unless theres a grove but there wont be a groove unless you run sticky natural rubber.
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Old 09-02-2011, 12:19 PM   #36215
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
In order to get a good groove worn into carpet is it necessary to run a sticky natural-rubber tire, such as a Jaco Pink or Purple, or is there no difference compared to the low natural rubber tires such as Jaco Yellow or Grey? Just asking because at my home track we have to run Yellow or Orange rear tires for the most part due to dust and the grove never seems to stick as well as other tracks I have seen.

This might be one of those Catch-22's where you cant run sticky natural rubber unless theres a grove but there wont be a groove unless you run sticky natural rubber.
I doubt the type of tire on a 12th scale has anything to due with laying a good groove down.

More drivers, and or Sedans will bring up the grip faster.

We have the same issue at our track with new layouts, where it can be difficult to find grip for 4 mins at the beginning of the day.
By the time we get around to the first heat race it's good, and even better in the mains.

Some tracks just can't hook up natural rubber type foam tires.
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Old 09-04-2011, 06:16 PM   #36216
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This video is like a psychedelic 60's trip...lol Not that I would know
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Old 09-04-2011, 06:24 PM   #36217
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Default random question

hey guys i have a random question,i was wondering how do i take apart my speed merchant 3 shock?this is my first 12th scale and have no experience with this and also how to refill it and set the rebound,thanks for any responses.
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Old 09-04-2011, 07:06 PM   #36218
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Anyone know what year or race this is?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH_4o...eature=related
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:42 PM   #36219
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Anyone know what year or race this is?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH_4o...eature=related
Looks like 2004 Ifmar WC at Kissimmee Fla.

Nice battle !
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:51 AM   #36220
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Looks like 2004 Ifmar WC at Kissimmee Fla.

Nice battle !
Thanks for that

Pretty neat race

It's amazing when one car is faster than the other but they stay within arms reach of eachother...lol

What I really want to find is the detroit worlds when the drivers we're pulling over to watch Neisenger swoop on masami to win

I think Jelich & Hohwart of Peak Performance we're in that A main but I've never seen any of those mains or practice just heard about them...lol
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:35 AM   #36221
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Cool 92 12th scale Worlds

Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Thanks for that

Pretty neat race

It's amazing when one car is faster than the other but they stay within arms reach of eachother...lol

What I really want to find is the detroit worlds when the drivers we're pulling over to watch Neisenger swoop on masami to win

I think Jelich & Hohwart of Peak Performance we're in that A main but I've never seen any of those mains or practice just heard about them...lol
I don't have any video, sorry.

But I do have a few things from that race.

Keven Jellich had his FF race body signed by the entire A-Main.
I believe this was the order they finished as well.

T.Neisinger
M. Hirosaka
M.Blackstock
D.Spashett
J. Johnson
M.Radicke
J.Rosas
C.Lett
K.Jellich
R.Hohwart
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:14 PM   #36222
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I don't have any video, sorry.

But I do have a few things from that race.

Keven Jellich had his FF race body signed by the entire A-Main.
I believe this was the order they finished as well.

T.Neisinger
M. Hirosaka
M.Blackstock
D.Spashett
J. Johnson
M.Radicke
J.Rosas
C.Lett
K.Jellich
R.Hohwart
And Ernie Provetti too

The body doesn't look like it was thrown into wall...lol

Gotta love the fast fashion and I'm still not convinced it's not still a competitive body

Maybe it is perfect body for the new inline associated car?

Anyway thanks for the memories
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:53 PM   #36223
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Default Tire diameter

What is the methodology on choosing the right tire diameter for the application? I understand about rollout but that can be adjusted with gearing given any tire diameter within a reasonable range.

Please explain. Does it have to do with tire flex or traction roll? Would like to understand this when trying to setup.
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Old 09-05-2011, 01:01 PM   #36224
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You sort of have it.

Lower tire profile will tend to squirm less, roll over less and chunck less. However, it will have less life.

It all depends on what level traction you have, track surface and driving ability.

I have been known to run my tires until the glue and wheel show through. One Main I noticed that my rear was sliding a bit about 3/4 into the 8 minutes, the tires were completely worn away down to the glue. Fortunately I had a good lead at the time and finished in first but it was an interesting race.
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Old 09-05-2011, 01:28 PM   #36225
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The way I view tire compound and size is a combination of forward grip, and side grip.

For instance a softer compound generally will have more grip overall, but can cause issues on a high bite surface.
By using a smaller diameter you can reduce the side grip, while retaining most of the forward grip, to a point.

For stock 17.5 blinky you can run very small dia tires, as the side grip for this class isn't as demanding as it is in mod, where corner entry speeds are much higher.

Indoor track setups will work better with smaller dia tires due to the extreme grip level.
On Outdoor tracks full size tires with a rounded edge can be optimum if you're looking for maximum grip.
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