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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-16-2011, 10:50 PM   #36181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Hey Blue Screw, Thanks for posting that nugget of info from Bruce !

On the Double Steer issue, I think we've all fought with that at one time or another.

I know my car never does that when I have a lot of front bite, or when the dual rate is dialed down.
Maybe a different front tire with more grip, and a rear pod, sag, shock adjustment would help.
Get the car settled down on corner entry, but still have enough steering mid-corner to exit.
Gluing the fronts a bit may also cure it.
Ah well, thanks for hearing me out, the car does have what I think is a lot of rear pod droop (about 3mm) so I'll try to take some out. The car has LOTS of steering grip, I had to turn down the steering throw to a 4-5' circle. I literally have to be at racing speed and have the back end of the car dance to get it around the hairpin corners. Next weekend I should have Lonny drive the car a few laps, see what he suggests... then again he might give me some advice he thinks will slow me down
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:41 PM   #36182
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Ah well, thanks for hearing me out, the car does have what I think is a lot of rear pod droop (about 3mm) so I'll try to take some out. The car has LOTS of steering grip, I had to turn down the steering throw to a 4-5' circle. I literally have to be at racing speed and have the back end of the car dance to get it around the hairpin corners. Next weekend I should have Lonny drive the car a few laps, see what he suggests... then again he might give me some advice he thinks will slow me down
Who, me?
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:52 AM   #36183
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Next weekend I should have Lonny drive the car a few laps, see what he suggests... then again he might give me some advice he thinks will slow me down
Lonnie would never do that, but I would.
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Old 08-17-2011, 12:00 PM   #36184
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Hey, I have that same table...

On a different note, why are you selling this in the 1/12 scale forum?
Just because it is a 1/12 scale truggy!
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Old 08-17-2011, 12:07 PM   #36185
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Originally Posted by sn47som1 View Post
Just because it is a 1/12 scale truggy!
This is a 1/12 scale pan car thread in Electric On-Road, I think you would get better business in the minis thread of electric offroad or something to that effect.
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Old 08-17-2011, 03:49 PM   #36186
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I would describe it as being a sort of double-steer, the front hooks, releases, then hooks again for the rest of the corner, I
You may want to try a thicker shock oil and/or a stiffer shock spring.

Because of our dusty surface your car is pushing and your compensating with extra steering throw. This is causing the front end to push and hook, push and hook. The change to the shock should give you more front end bite and allow you to dial out some of that steering throw.

The NASCAR guy's call it push to oversteer.

Let me know if it works.
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:24 PM   #36187
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Has anyone tried the Hobbywing EZRUN 3650M (380 sized) series motor?

Does it have enough torque and power to pull 1/12 versus the true 540 motors?

Just want to get some general inputs from the experts.

TIA,
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:33 PM   #36188
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The NASCAR guy's call it push to oversteer.
That's the Larry McReynolds "pushy-loose"
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:50 PM   #36189
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Originally Posted by RacinJ View Post
You may want to try a thicker shock oil and/or a stiffer shock spring.

Because of our dusty surface your car is pushing and your compensating with extra steering throw. This is causing the front end to push and hook, push and hook. The change to the shock should give you more front end bite and allow you to dial out some of that steering throw.

The NASCAR guy's call it push to oversteer.

Let me know if it works.
My steering throw is tiny, the car had and still has huge front bite and I wanted its turning circle to be less than the width of the track, so I added the preload and gave it its dynamic steering bite back with a little more throw thinking that this would give me a tighter turning circle if I got into trouble (its a serious pain in the ass to have the car 3 feet from a barrier, pointed straight toward it, and knowing that it doesn't have the steering throw to turn away) but it made it double-steer, so I think I'm going to go to 40wt in the center shock, leave the copper spring, remove the preload from the front and put the 0.022" springs in place of its current 0.020" set. Hopefully that would reduce double-steer and allow me to run more throw.
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:58 PM   #36190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I think I'm going to go to 40wt in the center shock, leave the copper spring, remove the preload from the front and put the 0.022" springs in place of its current 0.020" set. Hopefully that would reduce double-steer and allow me to run more throw.
If you have that much steering and front end bite definitely try the .22 front springs. If you can widen the front track.

If that doesn't help, soften up the rear shock. Try both the spring and the dampening.
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Old 08-17-2011, 10:46 PM   #36191
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Default How about some 12th scale entertainment

1/12th Racing from Japan
http://www.ircc.jp/gallery.html

12th Mod
+ YouTube Video
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--> 12th scale Information Source <--

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Old 08-18-2011, 03:26 AM   #36192
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Default Servo positon

What are the differences in handling when mounting the servo flat(turnbuckles straight), compared to mounting the servo angled(turnbuckles angled)?
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:23 AM   #36193
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What are the differences in handling when mounting the servo flat(turnbuckles straight), compared to mounting the servo angled(turnbuckles angled)?
As I understand it, the difference is the bump-steer. A car with level turnbuckles will typically have a small amount of bump toe-in, its never much but in a 1/12 scale car a few thousandths can mean a lot in how it runs, while a car with the angled servo and turnbuckles will have a small amount of bump toe-out. The difference as I understand it is that the bump toe-in will make the car more aggressive in the corners when the front suspension compresses and the bump toe-in effectively turns the wheel more in, while the toe-out will make it more mellow by angling it out slightly. Just last weekend I went from a laydown servo arrangement to an angled one and saw no real difference in the cars aggression or steering throw needed to make it run.
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:06 PM   #36194
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Default 1/12 front ends

I'm trying to put together a car to go carpet racing.

What is the best front end I can get for the standard 1/12 mounts? CRC Prostrut? BMI Copperhead? Serpent?

Also are there other economical methods of upgrading existing older style front ends like the CRC front end prior to the Pro Strut?

I'm not very familiar with the various types of front ends out there other than the AE reactive caster units that came originally in the RC12L3. Can someone give me an education and history of the reactive caster front ends?
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:00 AM   #36195
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
As I understand it, the difference is the bump-steer. A car with level turnbuckles will typically have a small amount of bump toe-in, its never much but in a 1/12 scale car a few thousandths can mean a lot in how it runs, while a car with the angled servo and turnbuckles will have a small amount of bump toe-out. The difference as I understand it is that the bump toe-in will make the car more aggressive in the corners when the front suspension compresses and the bump toe-in effectively turns the wheel more in, while the toe-out will make it more mellow by angling it out slightly. Just last weekend I went from a laydown servo arrangement to an angled one and saw no real difference in the cars aggression or steering throw needed to make it run.
Partly right partly not right...A flat servo will have more bump steer but the toe-in gained from the bump steer will make the car less aggressive in steering. Additionally the flat servo will have less ackerman than the angled servo. So you have your toes backward...toe-in will make the car more mellow where toe-out will make it more aggressive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
I'm trying to put together a car to go carpet racing.

What is the best front end I can get for the standard 1/12 mounts? CRC Prostrut? BMI Copperhead? Serpent?

Also are there other economical methods of upgrading existing older style front ends like the CRC front end prior to the Pro Strut?

I'm not very familiar with the various types of front ends out there other than the AE reactive caster units that came originally in the RC12L3. Can someone give me an education and history of the reactive caster front ends?
I will admit I am a bit biased but my favorite front end is the new BMI one...however it takes a bit of getting used to. Of the normal strut type front ends I would recommend the CRC with the long upper arm conversion...very smooth front end.
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