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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-12-2011, 08:04 AM   #36166
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Originally Posted by Mitch-e4fs View Post
I just built my first 1/12 and would like to know how to accurately set toe?
I've set aside a host of links to setup 12th scale cars.
Check it out HERE
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Old 08-13-2011, 12:45 PM   #36167
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I've set aside a host of links to setup 12th scale cars.
Check it out HERE
How about a base set-up for mod at TQ?

Working on getting the 10.5 to run with the SPX.
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Old 08-13-2011, 02:58 PM   #36168
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
How about a base set-up for mod at TQ?

Working on getting the 10.5 to run with the SPX.
Here you go sir.
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Old 08-13-2011, 03:37 PM   #36169
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Here you go sir.
Thanks.

How do you check droop with a pan car?
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Old 08-13-2011, 04:32 PM   #36170
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Thanks.

How do you check droop with a pan car?
I'll go out on a limb and say there are many tried and true methods.

How I do it is...
Front droop; lift the front end until the steering blocks are just topped out, measure with ride height gauge behind front wheels, under the chassis edge.
Lightly compress front end, let it rise, and measure again.

Rear droop; lift rear end till center shock tops out, measure with ride height gauge at rear most point on the main chassis edge.
Compress rear suspension, let it rise, and measure again.
The measured difference from fully topped out, to loaded, is the amount of droop.
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Old 08-14-2011, 02:15 AM   #36171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I've set aside a host of links to setup 12th scale cars.
Check it out HERE
I didn't realise you'd put all that together. Thanks for the links.

I really ought to go write something new if the family and actual racing stop getting in the way.

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Old 08-14-2011, 11:13 AM   #36172
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I didn't realise you'd put all that together. Thanks for the links.

I really ought to go write something new if the family and actual racing stop getting in the way.

Trev
Thanks to you and many others for putting up such great articles for us.

I just thought it might be a good idea to store it all in one place to help our locals out, and makes it easy to point new 12th scale racers in the right direction.

Please let me know when you have any updates Trev.

db
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:49 PM   #36173
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On the front end of my car I made a change and put a small amount of preload on the front springs to give it a bit less aggression in steering and run more steering throw, and it worked but the front end started to steer in pulses instead of smooth like it had been before without the preload. Would increasing the dampening of the main shock help it transfer load a bit more slowly on turn-in or is does anybody have a better suggestion?
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:22 PM   #36174
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On the front end of my car I made a change and put a small amount of preload on the front springs to give it a bit less aggression in steering and run more steering throw, and it worked but the front end started to steer in pulses instead of smooth like it had been before without the preload. Would increasing the dampening of the main shock help it transfer load a bit more slowly on turn-in or is does anybody have a better suggestion?
Would you describe it as double steer ?

What car, setup, tires, & surface are you running on ?
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:43 PM   #36175
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Would you describe it as double steer ?

What car, setup, tires, & surface are you running on ?
I run on a carpet track which is notable for the incredible amount of dust in it, I run Parma Yellow rear tires and Parma Lilac fronts, its an old CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R which is more of a Frankenstein car these days and has a new CRC Encore shock, 13.5 boosted and Parma body.

CRC Copper main shock spring, 30wt shock oil
0.020" front springs
CRC white (medium-tension) side springs preloaded to touch the pivot ball.
4mm ride height
CRC white (about 10,000wt) side-dampener fluid completely filling the side dampener shafts grooves to maximize side dampening
front shafts were oiled with light bearing oil and move freely in the knuckle and arm.

I would describe it as being a sort of double-steer, the front hooks, releases, then hooks again for the rest of the corner, I thought it was bouncing or something due to excessive weight transfer or the body dragging (wasn't the body). It was still very fast and controllable but it didn't instill the confidence to cut corners that little extra closer if you know what I mean.
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:31 PM   #36176
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- Speed Merchant Rev6 - Bruce Carbone - Pod Droop vs Chassis Sag -


While processing the setup sheet for the Team Speed Merchant Rev6, Speed Merchant's boss Bruce Carbone asked to add a field named "Chassis Sag" on the document. Questioning about what is Chassis Sag and if that is similar to Pod Droop, Bruce provide the following details:


Pod Droop is how far past even the bottom plate drops below the chassis at the center shock's full extension. In other words, if you look at the car from the side, and hold it in the air, it's how many degrees or millimeters the bottom plate angles downward. Personally, I've always used degrees...i.e. "I have about 2 degrees of Droop", but some people like to use Millimeters, which is basically Down-Travel past center, or past the chassis and bottom plate being even.

Chassis Sag...... is when the car is completely ready to run....ready to hit the track. Push down on your roll over antenna.....generally, the car should squat and return up, but not all the way (Unless you have your center spring really maxed out). Now, if you gently pull up on your roll over antenna, the chassis should lift until it hits the shock's full extension. Usually, about 1/2 mm, but sometimes more (especially is you have a lot of Pod Droop (bumpy tracks)). The more Chassis Sag you have, the more mellow your car is to drive, But if you have a lot of Sag, and a lot of Droop, the car will get very unpredictable...especially "off-power"...like entering a sharp 180 degree turn.....because the Droop will let too much weight transfer to the front of the car.

with front spring

SOFTER - more steering but may dig or square up too hard. Softer springs have higher chance of collapsing.

STIFFER - less steering. Does not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:36 PM   #36177
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I had double steer with my old 12L once at Bakersfield. I fixed it by increasing the side damping, but it made the car push too much in the sweeper, so I switched back and lived with the double steer.
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:57 PM   #36178
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Hey Blue Screw, Thanks for posting that nugget of info from Bruce !

On the Double Steer issue, I think we've all fought with that at one time or another.

I know my car never does that when I have a lot of front bite, or when the dual rate is dialed down.
Maybe a different front tire with more grip, and a rear pod, sag, shock adjustment would help.
Get the car settled down on corner entry, but still have enough steering mid-corner to exit.
Gluing the fronts a bit may also cure it.
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:29 PM   #36179
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Default Mini Hyper ST-E and lots of goodies for sale!!

Hey guys, I have a mini hyper ste in excellent condition with lots of goodies:

2 great condition chassis'- 1 is installed
Castle MMP
Trinity Pro 4 Monster Horsepower 550 motor- Sensored set up
Racing fan for the motor
IP Intellect 3s 11.1v 6800mah Lipo with deans connector and under 10 cycles!! barely used
Zippy 4s 3000mah
ICE charger with external power supply great condition
FLY SKY 2.4ghz radio and receiver
Proline crowdpleazer body painted black
**Losi 8ight front shocks in the rear!! Incredible upgrade- makes all the difference in the handling and jumping with this set up!
bag of goodies- springs for the rear shocks, stock rear shocks and springs, Novak glitch buster NIP, extra set of 1/8 wheel adapters
Front and rear universal drive shafts installed

I want to move this fast! buyer pays shipping- make me an offer guys!!
PayPal preferred
I can email pics!!!!
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:36 PM   #36180
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Originally Posted by sn47som1 View Post
Hey guys, I have a mini hyper ste in excellent condition with lots of goodies:

2 great condition chassis'- 1 is installed
Castle MMP
Trinity Pro 4 Monster Horsepower 550 motor- Sensored set up
Racing fan for the motor
IP Intellect 3s 11.1v 6800mah Lipo with deans connector and under 10 cycles!! barely used
Zippy 4s 3000mah
ICE charger with external power supply great condition
FLY SKY 2.4ghz radio and receiver
Proline crowdpleazer body painted black
**Losi 8ight front shocks in the rear!! Incredible upgrade- makes all the difference in the handling and jumping with this set up!
bag of goodies- springs for the rear shocks, stock rear shocks and springs, Novak glitch buster NIP, extra set of 1/8 wheel adapters
Front and rear universal drive shafts installed

I want to move this fast! buyer pays shipping- make me an offer guys!!
PayPal preferred
I can email pics!!!!

Hey, I have that same table...

On a different note, why are you selling this in the 1/12 scale forum?
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