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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-09-2011, 06:28 AM   #36151
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Just trimming my 1st 1/12 body.

What dia should I cut the wheel arch's to (im using crc tyres)?

How much ground clearance should I run for the shell? Same as ride height?
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:59 AM   #36152
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I usually mount the body level with the chassis, but you must be sure it doesn't drag at the front when the suspension moves. Wheel arches should be enough larger than your biggest tires that the tires won't touch the body. This is especially important with the flap behind the rear tires.
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:16 PM   #36153
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Default Novak Booster and BL Esc

Okay I understand that using the Novak Booster, I'll have 6V on my BEC circuit when running 1s 3.7V lipo. However, does this mean I can use any BL Esc? I thought that the majority or the 2s Esc's have a minimum input voltage to be operational regardless of the BEC issue.

To use an Esc for an example like an LRP SPX Stock Spec. It states in its manual that it can use 4 - 6 cells which is an input voltage range of 4.8V - 7.4V. If I use the Novak Booster in conjunction with it, can I run the LRP on 3.7V?
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:33 PM   #36154
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You can use ANY speedo as long as you use a booster or pack. The only thing a 1s speedo does is add a built in booster.
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:35 PM   #36155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Okay I understand that using the Novak Booster, I'll have 6V on my BEC circuit when running 1s 3.7V lipo. However, does this mean I can use any BL Esc? I thought that the majority or the 2s Esc's have a minimum input voltage to be operational regardless of the BEC issue.

To use an Esc for an example like an LRP SPX Stock Spec. It states in its manual that it can use 4 - 6 cells which is an input voltage range of 4.8V - 7.4V. If I use the Novak Booster in conjunction with it, can I run the LRP on 3.7V?
I don't know if the SPX Stock Spec has the internal booster or not (I don't think it does, the V2 does), but in all ESC's going back to the dinosaur days of brushed motors the main heavy MOS-FET circuit which passes energy to the windings of the motor is completely independent of the internal computer. To do what your saying, just leave the switch for the ESC in the OFF position and then it will be powered running on the booster when the booster is plugged in, feeding energy to the ESC through the receiver into its signal harness as opposed to in 2s mode when power is fed from the ESC to its internal computer and then to the receiver. That will power on the ESC internal computer from the booster (6v). The ESC's main power connection doesn't even need to be plugged into the battery for it to power on its computer, only the signal harness. Still, the heavy-duty MOS-FET will continue to use just the 1s battery voltage and that is what will be passed to the motor.
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:19 PM   #36156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I don't know if the SPX Stock Spec has the internal booster or not (I don't think it does, the V2 does), but in all ESC's going back to the dinosaur days of brushed motors the main heavy MOS-FET circuit which passes energy to the windings of the motor is completely independent of the internal computer. To do what your saying, just leave the switch for the ESC in the OFF position and then it will be powered running on the booster when the booster is plugged in, feeding energy to the ESC through the receiver into its signal harness as opposed to in 2s mode when power is fed from the ESC to its internal computer and then to the receiver. That will power on the ESC internal computer from the booster (6v). The ESC's main power connection doesn't even need to be plugged into the battery for it to power on its computer, only the signal harness. Still, the heavy-duty MOS-FET will continue to use just the 1s battery voltage and that is what will be passed to the motor.
Okay, I also looked at the Novak's Smart Boost manual. So this is what I understand:
  1. Originally the Esc switch brings in power from the battery to power the board then puts it out through its signal wire to the BEC.
  2. The Smart Boost draws power directly from the battery terminals routes the BEC through the receiver and powers the Esc board eventhough the Esc switch is off. Question: Does this work for all Esc's? Will the switches on other Esc's block power from coming through the signal wire?
  3. The Esc with power to its board at 6v coming from the BEC through the Smart Boost is operational and routes the 3.7v battery power to the motor through its FETs. Question: Do the FETs have a minimum voltage? Are the FETs still functional with only 3.7v?
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:42 PM   #36157
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Save yourself the headache, get an 1S lipo ESC, like the Hobbywing 120A/1S, yes it's a bit big, but you will soon forget about that after you see the speed it gives your car.....
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Old 08-09-2011, 04:30 PM   #36158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Okay, I also looked at the Novak's Smart Boost manual. So this is what I understand:
  1. Originally the Esc switch brings in power from the battery to power the board then puts it out through its signal wire to the BEC.
  2. The Smart Boost draws power directly from the battery terminals routes the BEC through the receiver and powers the Esc board eventhough the Esc switch is off. Question: Does this work for all Esc's? Will the switches on other Esc's block power from coming through the signal wire?
  3. The Esc with power to its board at 6v coming from the BEC through the Smart Boost is operational and routes the 3.7v battery power to the motor through its FETs. Question: Do the FETs have a minimum voltage? Are the FETs still functional with only 3.7v?
Every esc I've ever used works with reciever pack or booster. There is no way for the esc to "block" voltage from the booster if it is connected as instructed. There is no mimimum voltage for the fets and all esc's will work on a 3.7v battery, at least on all the ones I have used, and that would be most of the available brands
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:31 PM   #36159
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Every esc I've ever used works with reciever pack or booster. There is no way for the esc to "block" voltage from the booster if it is connected as instructed. There is no mimimum voltage for the fets and all esc's will work on a 3.7v battery, at least on all the ones I have used, and that would be most of the available brands
Okay, thanks for assuring me on that.
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Old 08-09-2011, 08:11 PM   #36160
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Do yourself a favor and dig out the instructions to your ESC just to double check. If you are using an LRP SPX plug the booster into the receiver, plug the ESC into the receiver, turn on the booster, DO NOT turn on the ESC. It should now operate your system.
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:00 PM   #36161
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
Do yourself a favor and dig out the instructions to your ESC just to double check. If you are using an LRP SPX plug the booster into the receiver, plug the ESC into the receiver, turn on the booster, DO NOT turn on the ESC. It should now operate your system.
to get my spx to work I had to remove the red wire from the speed control plug into the receiver only using the black and white wire. then turn the speed control on and the booster on. this is if the above doesn't work.
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:43 AM   #36162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
I usually mount the body level with the chassis, but you must be sure it doesn't drag at the front when the suspension moves. Wheel arches should be enough larger than your biggest tires that the tires won't touch the body. This is especially important with the flap behind the rear tires.

A size would be helpfull. I will be using pre cut CRC tyres.
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Old 08-10-2011, 04:10 AM   #36163
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Originally Posted by dontfeelcold View Post
A size would be helpfull. I will be using pre cut CRC tyres.
dont you have the tyres yet Josh. CRC brand new are around 48mm i think so 51mm may be. i had very little rear tyre wear at ACT but the fronts had massive wear.
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Old 08-10-2011, 01:22 PM   #36164
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Default Flexi FF'07

I know this is not the sale thread, but have a NIB Flexi I need to get rid of. PM me, thanks.
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Old 08-12-2011, 03:32 AM   #36165
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I just built my first 1/12 and would like to know how to accurately set toe?
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