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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-19-2011, 01:35 PM   #36091
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Wonder if CRC has a longitudinal battery chassis in the works, or if they're satisfied with their performance last season...
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:45 PM   #36092
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It'll be interesting to see what comes next, I remeber once I tried a slightly longer wheelbase 1/12 by combining a DB12 with a DB12R. It was very stable but felt very lazy in the corners, would be interesting to try that again with todays lightweight lipos.
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:34 PM   #36093
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Is there a quick and easy way to increase a 1/12 scale body's front-end downforce? I have a Parma EE-1 right now and on my somewhat shorter-wheelbase CRC car and it completely loses the front end at speed, making me need to slow down excessively for the hairpin at the end of the straight or shoot wide while it has great steering and rotation at lower speed. Any suggestions?
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Old 07-20-2011, 04:05 PM   #36094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Is there a quick and easy way to increase a 1/12 scale body's front-end downforce? I have a Parma EE-1 right now and on my somewhat shorter-wheelbase CRC car and it completely loses the front end at speed, making me need to slow down excessively for the hairpin at the end of the straight or shoot wide while it has great steering and rotation at lower speed. Any suggestions?
You are not going to like this answer but the EE1 is not as good as the AMR-12 from Protoform. Try the Protoform and I think you will like it much better. I have also had really good luch with the CRC bodies.

Steve Dunn
Indianapolis, IN USA
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Old 07-20-2011, 04:29 PM   #36095
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Originally Posted by sdunnmcp View Post
You are not going to like this answer but the EE1 is not as good as the AMR-12 from Protoform. Try the Protoform and I think you will like it much better. I have also had really good luch with the CRC bodies.

Steve Dunn
Indianapolis, IN USA
I had a feeling that was the case, but that AMR is a .020" lexan and that means that I will need a new one every two weeks. I'm going to try a Speed 8 HD Parma body with all the cutouts buzzed away and maybe set forward on the car a few extra millimeters from its suggested point, but at least its .030" lexan so it should be tough.
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:19 PM   #36096
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The latest ROAR and IFMAR rules don't allow for a lot of body tuning, mounting it forward will help a little. You could try trimming the rear spoiler a little at a time. For our little group, I doubt anyone would object if you bent a bit of lexan between 45' and 90' and glued or servo taped it into the gap between the front fenders. I don't think you will be happy with the 8HD, sorry.
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Old 07-20-2011, 11:28 PM   #36097
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I prefer the non HD Speed 8 body for steering. but the AMR-12 is better then the speed series.

It's all about balance. You may just need some weight in the front of the car. I will generally add 5-7grams to the front of the body with shoegoo and that aids in steering
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Old 07-24-2011, 02:03 AM   #36098
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I was told by a man who knows a lot more than me (he designed several championship-winning pan cars) that the new 1/12 scale cars lower control arms actually flex more than the old Associated style, and that there may be some advantage in retrofitting the old arms onto a new car, is any of this true?
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:26 AM   #36099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahamoti View Post
Wonder if CRC has a longitudinal battery chassis in the works, or if they're satisfied with their performance last season...
I would really like to see the answer to that question. I hate to by the gen xl conversion for my gen x if another conversion is in the works.
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:03 PM   #36100
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Default Best 1/12 1s motor-speed control combo

Right now in my 1/12 I have an LRP Stock Spec V2 and LRP X12 motor, both are excellent in power production and efficiency but the motor has a bit too much natural drag brake. It can be easily driven around but I think I'm going to swap this motor-speed control combo into my touring car and try again with the 1/12 scale, what combo do you suggest?
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:32 PM   #36101
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Considering starting out in 1/12th after many years running touring car. What equipment is needed to start (apart from radio gear i have that). Best current car, fastest, most reliable, best Built easiest to drive etc. Thanks
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:57 PM   #36102
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Right now in my 1/12 I have an LRP Stock Spec V2 and LRP X12 motor, both are excellent in power production and efficiency but the motor has a bit too much natural drag brake. It can be easily driven around but I think I'm going to swap this motor-speed control combo into my touring car and try again with the 1/12 scale, what combo do you suggest?
Try the X12 1s rotor, it completes that package for 12th scale.
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Old 07-24-2011, 04:04 PM   #36103
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Right now in my 1/12 I have an LRP Stock Spec V2 and LRP X12 motor, both are excellent in power production and efficiency but the motor has a bit too much natural drag brake. It can be easily driven around but I think I'm going to swap this motor-speed control combo into my touring car and try again with the 1/12 scale, what combo do you suggest?
I think any combo can be made to work, but before you spend $$$ ask Richard about the set up. His seems to roll quite nicely and it's the same as yours.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:45 AM   #36104
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What really is the advantage of the supposedly new battery placement in some of these retrofit kits like the 12R5.1 LiPo? If the design was meant to move weight backward or forward there had to be easier ways, as far as I can tell all that this will do is very slightly change the X and Y axis moments of rotation, while the Z axis (the one that involves the car actually rotating around a corner, would be nearly unchanged. I don't buy the explanation that the shock geometry is better, or that its stronger or anything else, I think this is a shiny new toy that Associated meant to liberate you from $150 of your cash and not really go any faster. It also is making the car longer, which totally undoes the moment-of-inertia claim by moving the heaviest bits (motor, rear tires, axle, buklheads) further from the cars center of gravity. I would spend my $150 on something that I know will make me faster, like freshly trued tires, new bearings, batteries, SiC diff balls, a balance board, or gas in my tank to go practice and test-and-tune.
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:30 PM   #36105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
What really is the advantage of the supposedly new battery placement in some of these retrofit kits like the 12R5.1 LiPo? If the design was meant to move weight backward or forward there had to be easier ways, as far as I can tell all that this will do is very slightly change the X and Y axis moments of rotation, while the Z axis (the one that involves the car actually rotating around a corner, would be nearly unchanged. I don't buy the explanation that the shock geometry is better, or that its stronger or anything else, I think this is a shiny new toy that Associated meant to liberate you from $150 of your cash and not really go any faster. It also is making the car longer, which totally undoes the moment-of-inertia claim by moving the heaviest bits (motor, rear tires, axle, buklheads) further from the cars center of gravity. I would spend my $150 on something that I know will make me faster, like freshly trued tires, new bearings, batteries, SiC diff balls, a balance board, or gas in my tank to go practice and test-and-tune.
I have been running the inline chassis from another MFG. since February. The car is faster in the turns. Lipo's have changed everything with these cars and I think we are still learning what is needed. Less side roll was achieved by moving the batteries towards the center but not completely centered. We also got more weight up front which helped with more steering.
Keep in mind these changes were for modified, although I think stock will benefit also. In mod there is so much power that a configuration change had to happen and this has helped.
Vegas will be a good test for all the new cars.

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