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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-17-2011, 06:16 PM   #36076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I searched the thread but couldn't find it...someone mentioned a way back about a high voltage servo for 1/12th...I think it was a KO but when I go to KO's web site I couldn't find any high voltage servos.
I don't know if they officially have that somewhere on their site (never looked) but I believe there a lot of guys that use KO stuff with higher voltage and have no problems. Maybe in the instructions for the particular servo? I think I remember hearing that the instructions for their Rx's state that they're good to go with 2s LiPo packs.... I think.
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:07 PM   #36077
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I believe JR makes a high voltage mini. Maybe check Horizon.
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:18 PM   #36078
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Cool New 12th scale updates

12th scale just keeps getting better all the time.

Dig all the new stuff for the upcoming indoor season

12R5.1 LiPo Conversion Kit




CEFX Griffin 12 2011 conversion





Speedmerchant Xray XII conversion kit


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Old 07-18-2011, 09:15 PM   #36079
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I find it interesting that some of these kits/conversions have a longer wheelbase, anyone else?
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:07 PM   #36080
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184-222mm wheelbase ROAR. I have no idea what my Speedmerchant's wheelbase is. I had no idea that the range was so large.
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:12 PM   #36081
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I think its a progression, my 3.2R is a somewhat shorter car than the new Serpents or Speedmerchants. I guess its like the touring car and offroad classes, just make the car as big as the rules allow and go from there.
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:19 PM   #36082
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Can anyone comment on the dynamics behind why a longer wheelbase would be good?

More Steering
Stability through the corner
etc
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:55 PM   #36083
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Hey bkspeedo,

Im not sure if im right, but a longer wheel base helps with corner speed and stability.

Hope this helps
Mike
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:44 AM   #36084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike ivy View Post
Hey bkspeedo,

Im not sure if im right, but a longer wheel base helps with corner speed and stability.

Hope this helps
Mike
That's what I've been told too. Cars are generally going for wider front track too. The latest V-Dezign Carpet Ripper V has 2mm longer wheelbase and 3mm wider front track than my CRC Gen-XL. Cars are slowly moving to what is more optimal with the weight of LiPo than what was best with NiMh.

I'm not at all sure about the longitudinal cell positioning though. There are various potential problems in my mind, especially if the cell is not central. There are other ways of moving the centre of gravity further forwards.

Trev
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:36 AM   #36085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
That's what I've been told too. Cars are generally going for wider front track too. The latest V-Dezign Carpet Ripper V has 2mm longer wheelbase and 3mm wider front track than my CRC Gen-XL. Cars are slowly moving to what is more optimal with the weight of LiPo than what was best with NiMh.
What you say is true, Vesa is indeed working on a new car.

What we noticed last year is, that with loosing a heavy NiMH battery, you've also lost pressure on the rear tires, which means loosing reargrip (also has to do something with chassis roll). The cars got much more agressive then the where with NiMH's.
Last year I've only raced my battery forward on every track, and even put my elec's more out front. Widend my car on every track with 2mm on each side. Also when looking to front tyre sauce. with NiMH's I would sauce the tyres sometimes for almost 50%, With lipo, putting on 30% was much, and most of the time I've put on less.

All of this is just because with lipo's te car's are having much more "steering" then with NiMH's. That's why the lipo conversions of Asso, SpeedMerch, and CEFX got longer and wider, to make the car drive a bit more easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
I'm not at all sure about the longitudinal cell positioning though. There are various potential problems in my mind, especially if the cell is not central. There are other ways of moving the centre of gravity further forwards.
I don't think it only has to do with moving weight forward. I've just converted my RC12R5.1 to this battery conversion, and the electronics aren't so "wide" as the were with the old battery position. This would mean the car will chang's from left to right much faster. Which will make it quicker, true chicanes, but also carry more cornerspeed true the corners.
The cell isn't central but with the picture displayed my car is perfectly balanced with out any lead (old pic):



The only thing I'm wondering is why all the guys put the battery plugs out front. This will put the "heavy side" of the battery on the rear, which will make it more agressive, then putting the plugs on the back. But I'll try and test this tonight maybe.

Regards Robert
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:51 AM   #36086
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I see you've received your Sanwa shit!
Studied the manual already?

You drive your 1/12 this way, I will drive it like last year.
If you still win, I quiet the hobby, if not...
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:04 AM   #36087
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I see you've received your Sanwa shit!
Studied the manual already?

You drive your 1/12 this way, I will drive it like last year.
If you still win, I quiet the hobby, if not...
If not, I'll get you a beer?
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:26 AM   #36088
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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
If not, I'll get you a beer?
Let me rephrase that.
No I won't quit, offcourse not, I'm the only piece of competition for you!...

But a beer (or 2) i will never refuse!....
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:33 AM   #36089
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
Let me rephrase that.
No I won't quit, offcourse not, I'm the only piece of competition for you!...

But a beer (or 2) i will never refuse!....
well if he wins or not i will keep trying to keep up with you two ;-)

love my 1/12th but i think a new one is needed this year looking at the new designs i think my chassis wont be quick enough
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:03 AM   #36090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
What you say is true, Vesa is indeed working on a new car.

What we noticed last year is, that with loosing a heavy NiMH battery, you've also lost pressure on the rear tires, which means loosing reargrip (also has to do something with chassis roll). The cars got much more agressive then the where with NiMH's.
Last year I've only raced my battery forward on every track, and even put my elec's more out front. Widend my car on every track with 2mm on each side. Also when looking to front tyre sauce. with NiMH's I would sauce the tyres sometimes for almost 50%, With lipo, putting on 30% was much, and most of the time I've put on less.

All of this is just because with lipo's te car's are having much more "steering" then with NiMH's. That's why the lipo conversions of Asso, SpeedMerch, and CEFX got longer and wider, to make the car drive a bit more easy.



I don't think it only has to do with moving weight forward. I've just converted my RC12R5.1 to this battery conversion, and the electronics aren't so "wide" as the were with the old battery position. This would mean the car will chang's from left to right much faster. Which will make it quicker, true chicanes, but also carry more cornerspeed true the corners.
The cell isn't central but with the picture displayed my car is perfectly balanced with out any lead (old pic):



The only thing I'm wondering is why all the guys put the battery plugs out front. This will put the "heavy side" of the battery on the rear, which will make it more agressive, then putting the plugs on the back. But I'll try and test this tonight maybe.

Regards Robert
Nice build.
Thanks for the pic
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