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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-03-2011, 07:17 PM   #36031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casey View Post
I would lie to see some pics of Astroturf racing
I'll take my camera to the next race for you (2 weeks time). I'm trying to organise a member to shoot some video footage too. If that comes off we can put it on youtube and post a link.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:56 PM   #36032
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Astroturf, thats grass-roots racing for ya. (pun intended, honestly, did you think I didn't mean it?)
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Old 07-04-2011, 03:16 AM   #36033
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Hey hey fellow forumites,

Firstly, is this the right thread ???

If it is then i'm a tad bit excited at the moment cause i just received my 1st ever 1/12 pan car
Fwiw, it's a team red edition CRC T Fource part # 1312. Anyway, without opening up the box does anyone know here if i need to buy wheels and tyres for this kit ?

Cheers,
Bradstar
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:41 AM   #36034
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Yes, you will need to buy tires (glued to the wheels) for it as well as a body.

BTW: This looks more like it should be in the Classic 1/12 thread.
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Old 07-04-2011, 04:21 PM   #36035
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Yes as mentioned you will need tires and a body, also you will need the split pack 1s lipo that Speedzone sells; unless your track is behind the curve and still using nimh cells.
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Old 07-04-2011, 06:08 PM   #36036
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I think that kit actualy comes with a set of tires, just not a set that is worth racing. For the proper set of tires, see what your local hot-shots are running and start from there. As for a body, if your new to 1/12 scale i suggest a .030" thick Parma high-downforce body, as its been stronger for me in a crash than other types.
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Old 07-05-2011, 11:45 AM   #36037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I think that kit actualy comes with a set of tires, just not a set that is worth racing. For the proper set of tires, see what your local hot-shots are running and start from there. As for a body, if your new to 1/12 scale i suggest a .030" thick Parma high-downforce body, as its been stronger for me in a crash than other types.
Ooops, you're correct that it does come with tires. I was thinking of usable tires. The included ones will be good to try out but you will really need to find out what tire compounds are working at the track.

One of our new 1/12 racers is doing OK with an older AE RC12L. He put the 1 cell on the right of the chassis and all the electronics on the left side. It has nice speed but doesn't transition well.
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:06 PM   #36038
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The older CRC kits came with Grey rears and Purple fronts, a decent tire choice, at least for carpet, certainly usable for learning. If that's what is included in the T Fource kit I would just use them.

Placing the battery on one side works but not nearly as well as using the Speedzone saddle pack. An excellent battery that brings all the advantages of running lipo to the t bar car:
http://www.speedzoneusa.com/estore/i...roducts_id=292
is shown as out of stock right now but they have always restocked so far
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Old 07-05-2011, 06:15 PM   #36039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
The older CRC kits came with Grey rears and Purple fronts, a decent tire choice, at least for carpet, certainly usable for learning. If that's what is included in the T Fource kit I would just use them.

Placing the battery on one side works but not nearly as well as using the Speedzone saddle pack. An excellent battery that brings all the advantages of running lipo to the t bar car:
http://www.speedzoneusa.com/estore/i...roducts_id=292
is shown as out of stock right now but they have always restocked so far
Any idea if Speedzone plan to do another pack with higher capacity? I was running at the NSW Title last weekend, the track was the same one used for the 2001 1/8th Worlds, and lots of people were having dumping issues. Anyone using a 5200 mAh pack for that event would have been well off the pace.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Ok, so after some discussions with various people, I've got a candidate for a spec 12th class, and I want to do some testing.

The idea is 10.5 zero timing on the ESC (1S packs). There are some spec motor and ESC combo deals around for this for various other classes, so that's a plus. Also, a 10.5 with dynamic timing is a decent first Mod 12th set-up, so making the step up would require no new equipment.

Like I say, I'm going to do some testing to check the speed and driveability for new people, and I would like some starting suggestions for rollout/gearing.
If anyone has any experience with any zero timing 1S set-up at all, I'd really like to hear thoughts on rollout. Just need a starting point...
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Old 07-05-2011, 10:21 PM   #36040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Any idea if Speedzone plan to do another pack with higher capacity? I was running at the NSW Title last weekend, the track was the same one used for the 2001 1/8th Worlds, and lots of people were having dumping issues. Anyone using a 5200 mAh pack for that event would have been well off the pace.



If anyone has any experience with any zero timing 1S set-up at all, I'd really like to hear thoughts on rollout. Just need a starting point...
I can see how runtime would be an issue for you on a huge track like that, but it's not a problem on most tracks in the US. I've run the Speedzone saddle at a number of tracks from small to what we consider large and have never even come close to using the packs full capacity. Also remember this: many packs ratings are BS. The battery sellers need to keep pace with each other so the numbers keep going up, I know of cases where the same battery has been re-labled to a higher number (nobody whose batteries I use in case anyone's reading my signature).

Anyway, I was advising a guy who just bought his first 1/12th car, and he would be ill-advised to run enough horsepower to dump the battery on any track while he is learning
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:04 AM   #36041
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I can see how runtime would be an issue for you on a huge track like that, but it's not a problem on most tracks in the US. I've run the Speedzone saddle at a number of tracks from small to what we consider large and have never even come close to using the packs full capacity. Also remember this: many packs ratings are BS. The battery sellers need to keep pace with each other so the numbers keep going up, I know of cases where the same battery has been re-labled to a higher number (nobody whose batteries I use in case anyone's reading my signature).

Anyway, I was advising a guy who just bought his first 1/12th car, and he would be ill-advised to run enough horsepower to dump the battery on any track while he is learning
Yeah, I agree with everything you just said.

I was just asking the question because batteries are improving, and it is a little tenuous there only being one ROAR approved 1S saddle pack. I don't like saying to people, sure pick up a cheap T-bar car, you'll be fine with the Speedzone saddle as long as...

The Speedzone pack is also a bit more expensive, not too much, but when the cars are so cheap anyway it can impact a little on people's thinking.
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:09 AM   #36042
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I am looking for a part and i cant seem to find anywhere that stocks it

its is a Yokomo part
#SP4608S Hubs 12R5

I cant find them anywhere, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Chris,
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:16 AM   #36043
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Originally Posted by Grassy View Post
I am looking for a part and i cant seem to find anywhere that stocks it

its is a Yokomo part
#SP4608S Hubs 12R5

I cant find them anywhere, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Chris,
PM sent.
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:50 AM   #36044
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Ok, so I'm chasing spur gears smaller than 65T (48P). If there is anyone here who races Stock 12th or something, where do you get yours from?
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Last edited by Radio Active; 07-07-2011 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 07-07-2011, 03:05 AM   #36045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Ok, so I'm chasing spur gears smaller than 65T (48P). If there is anyone here who races Stock 12th or something, where do you get yours from?
RW Racing has 48p spurs down to 45 teeth: http://www.rwracing.co.uk/cars.html
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