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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-23-2011, 05:36 PM   #36016
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Cool

You got that right !

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QFT !


If it wasn't for Cyrul, Yokomo, AE, & CRC "Team" drivers would win every race, with cars that are not "KIT"

On-point Serpent conversions are cool too.

.
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:04 PM   #36017
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You got that right !
Quote:
If it wasn't for Cyrul, Yokomo, AE, & CRC "Team" drivers would win every race, with cars that are not "KIT"
He's a Bad Dude in 12th scale !
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:20 PM   #36018
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on the Gen XL do they make the servo stays so I can lay it flat ( and red )
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719157
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:01 AM   #36019
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Default old school 1/12 ae 12l3-4

Will this work? Will a 1s havec 13.5 system and a single saddle pack which is 3.7v, 5000, 30-50c work?
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:17 PM   #36020
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Will this work? Will a 1s havec 13.5 system and a single saddle pack which is 3.7v, 5000, 30-50c work?
It would work, but may not be as competitive as the link style cars. -Randy Banks
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:03 PM   #36021
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It would work, but may not be as competitive as the link style cars. -Randy Banks
Thanks Randy
Wasn't sure if using 0ne saddle battery was going to work like a normal 1s.
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:33 PM   #36022
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Will this work? Will a 1s havec 13.5 system and a single saddle pack which is 3.7v, 5000, 30-50c work?
I've seen it working well in an RC12L4. Battery up one side, electronics and a little weight (not much) on the other side to balance the car.

I'm not sure what the ROAR rules say, but this wouldn't be legal for a sanctioned event in Australia. I'm actually thinking about writing a proposal to change that, as there are a lot of really cheap T-bar cars around, but the only legal 1S saddle isn't sold in Australia, and is about 20% more expensive from overseas. If people could use half of the saddles they might already have, then we would be able to get a few more 12ths out there.

When 12th was 4 cell, people could disassemble their old 6 cell packs to try it. Now needing specialised packs means that it is more effort to go from other classes to 12th. Combine that with needing a special ESC, Voltage booster or receiver pack, and it's too much effort for some people. Australia has never had a 1/12th feeder class either, it's just open Mod. So, no one ever starts in 12th, they have to come from other classes. We need a feeder class, but can't get one without more numbers, it's a catch-22.

I had been trying to drum up interest for Stock 12th, but I'm not having much success. A timed ESC doesn't make the best "real" entry level class maybe? Maybe I should be looking at 13.5 and aiming more for the Stock TC racers? How big is 13.5 in the US? Any suggestions? Keep in mind that most of our tracks are tarmac, and vary in size from tiny to massive.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:19 PM   #36023
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It's not a sanctioned class, but at our local track we've had some success running 1S-13.5 against 4 cell-17.5 open speedo. Why not go 4 cell, 17.5, no boost? Batteries are out there, relatively cheap, and you can easily adapt to t-bar or link. If 13.5 is the motor of choice, that will work too, but then I would definitely go no boost. With 4 cell you don't need a special ESC, booster or RX pack. Just a thought.
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:10 PM   #36024
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It's not a sanctioned class, but at our local track we've had some success running 1S-13.5 against 4 cell-17.5 open speedo. Why not go 4 cell, 17.5, no boost? Batteries are out there, relatively cheap, and you can easily adapt to t-bar or link. If 13.5 is the motor of choice, that will work too, but then I would definitely go no boost. With 4 cell you don't need a special ESC, booster or RX pack. Just a thought.
Cells are dead in Australia. Particularly where I am. So much so that if you buy cells from the LHS chances are they are useless from sitting on the shelf for so long. Nobody has sold matched cells in Australia for more than 2 years, and even high performance unmatched cells are unobtainable. Pretty much the only way to get cells, is to buy those that come with an entry level RTR and break the pack up.

Also, the governing body has just gone to the trouble of removing NiMH and NiCd from the regulations. All the state level series, even the ones that aren't sanctioned, deviate very little from the National rules. To get anything more from the movement than making it big at the local track, which is what I'm looking for, it's going to have to be viable as a sanctioned class at some stage.
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:12 AM   #36025
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Then you are stuck with all the special equipment. For a beginner class, you don't need top level matched cells. Just buy bulk and sell them cheap. If enough people get interested the sanctioning bodies will come around.
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Old 06-30-2011, 03:07 AM   #36026
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Then you are stuck with all the special equipment.
That is so true, Daniel is stuck with very special equipment

Seriously lipos are not a problem they are a solution. 1/12th is more popular than ever (still not heaps popular) and when you can get speedpower lipos for $35 is there really any point in exploring other power options?

Anyway... I've just bought my 3rd 12th scale after 2 false starts looking forward to hitting the track with it in a fortnights time
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Old 06-30-2011, 06:28 PM   #36027
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I've just bought my 3rd 12th scale after 2 false starts looking forward to hitting the track with it in a fortnights time
Details?
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Old 07-01-2011, 03:08 AM   #36028
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Details?
12r5.1, nosram pearl evo v2 esc, nosram 5.0 octawind, and either CRC or Orion packs (I haven't dediced yet)
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Old 07-03-2011, 06:20 PM   #36029
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Ok, so after some discussions with various people, I've got a candidate for a spec 12th class, and I want to do some testing.

The idea is 10.5 zero timing on the ESC (1S packs). There are some spec motor and ESC combo deals around for this for various other classes, so that's a plus. Also, a 10.5 with dynamic timing is a decent first Mod 12th set-up, so making the step up would require no new equipment.

Like I say, I'm going to do some testing to check the speed and driveability for new people, and I would like some starting suggestions for rollout/gearing.

There are two tracks in my area that race 12th. One is a largish, very open outdoor track, the other is a tight indoor track running on astroturf (like carpet but about 75% of the grip and less consistent). So, if anyone has any experience with zero timing set-ups for 12th I'd appreciate it if you could post the rollout and the type/size of track you are driving on.

Anyone with direct experience of what I'm going to try, it would be great to hear your thoughts too.

Thanks.
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:11 PM   #36030
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There are two tracks in my area that race 12th. One is a largish, very open outdoor track, the other is a tight indoor track running on astroturf (like carpet but about 75% of the grip and less consistent).
I would lie to see some pics of Astroturf racing
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