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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-14-2011, 06:38 PM   #36001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIICJACKIII View Post
Sorry, it is a viper 13.5 motor with a tekin RS esc.
You will need either a booster or an external RX battery.
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:41 PM   #36002
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i think all the cars are good , i like my serpent out of all the cars ive tried. which are ae and crc. it has been very good for me. xrays are fast also. i like the way all of them drive .
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:09 PM   #36003
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All the current cars are good. They are all basically the same design. Pivot ball and links. So no matter what car you get it will be good.

But I have to say CRC is the best all around car. Haven't seen too many people on other brands do well that aren't "team" drivers!
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:14 PM   #36004
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CRC stuff plain works.
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Old 06-15-2011, 06:14 PM   #36005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidl View Post
Come on, Ian. Tell the truth. You were one of the 10 best drivers at those events in your classes. You are quite the wheel , you know.
Thanks David, but I give all the credit to the equipment. My driving talents aren't what they used to be.
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:05 PM   #36006
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Default TC5R trade for CRC 12th.

i have a TC5R ran on only carpet and tennis court grade asphalt. i would like in return a CRC gen-x
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:29 AM   #36007
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Does anyone run the novak 1s in there 12th scales? I was thinking of getting one to run 17.5 blinky? Novak says it doesnt need a rec pack or booster. Thanks for any help?

Chris
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Old 06-17-2011, 11:32 AM   #36008
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Originally Posted by gruman28 View Post
Does anyone run the novak 1s in there 12th scales? I was thinking of getting one to run 17.5 blinky? Novak says it doesnt need a rec pack or booster. Thanks for any help?

Chris
The Novak Havoc has an internal booster. The heat sink looks too tall but there is a low profile one available. I have been running the Kinetic 1s esc for non-boosted 17.5 and it works great,very smooth and fast. It does require a receiver pack but it comes wired for it and runs the rec pack through the BEC of the esc so there is no concern about voltage with lipo rec packs
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Old 06-17-2011, 11:32 PM   #36009
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Anyone Know what is the best lipo charger for 1/12th 17.5 and 13.5 blinky money is no object.I picked up some thunder power and Revtech packs and need a top level charger.
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:37 AM   #36010
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I don't think there is a bad charger on the market. Pick a small one that you like the looks of and have at it. I use this one

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=7028
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Old 06-22-2011, 02:25 PM   #36011
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Hey guys,

Slight problem here. I was putting together my DB12RR, (I'm using a Speed Passion Stock Club ESC, a Spektrum SR300, a Spektrum Dual Regulator, and an Rx pack, as well as a Reedy 1s battery) and whenever I turn on the switch for the receiver pack, everything turns on and the Rx pack powers the whole vehicle. Not sure if this is due to a wiring error caused by me, or if something is wrong with one of the electronics. Leaning towards an error by me. Has anyone ran into this before or know how to fix it?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-22-2011, 06:38 PM   #36012
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The receiver pack should only plug into the receiver, it should not be wired to anything else. There should be a switch that only turns thr RX pack on and off, when you turn it on the RX should be powered, the servo should work and the ESC should come on, but the motor should not run unless the 1S pack is plugged in. Can you post a pic of your car?
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:48 PM   #36013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
The receiver pack should only plug into the receiver, it should not be wired to anything else. There should be a switch that only turns thr RX pack on and off, when you turn it on the RX should be powered, the servo should work and the ESC should come on, but the motor should not run unless the 1S pack is plugged in. Can you post a pic of your car?
So do I not need the regulator? I'm confused. I can post a picture in a little, but my camera isn't all that great and quite frankly the wiring looks like a mess at the moment...

The motor seemed to be extremely low powered, but it was still turning. The servo seemed up to the right speed, but this is my first 1/12 scale, so I'm not positive about that either.
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:52 PM   #36014
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See my post in the DB12R thread. Following this discussion in 2 threads is making me dizzy. Be sure you go thru the process to turn off the the voltage cut off using a 2S set up. You do need he voltage regulator for the 2S RX pack.
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:32 PM   #36015
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Cool Ian Who !

Ian Ruggles on the Gen XL do they make the servo stays so I can lay it flat ( and red ) , Or does anyone know this and where can I get them !

Thanks

me


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