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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 12-03-2001, 10:01 AM   #346
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Default Re: Stock Racing Cells


I run in 8 minute heats, so I prefer the extra voltage of 2400's since I don't need the additional runtime from 3000's. In any case, get matched cells of the higher voltage range for the type of cell you choose. It's worth the extra coin and that's what the fastest guys are doing, so you don't have much of a choice if you want to be a contender.
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Old 12-03-2001, 01:14 PM   #347
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Thanks for the info, I'll probsbly get some 2400's to begin with and see what happens.
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Old 12-03-2001, 03:49 PM   #348
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As if I did have enough rc cars, I decided I can't live without a 1/12, so Santa came by and dropped off a carpet knife (I did not have the heart or the $ to ask for the bloody knife.)
enough BS.

The question is what type/wind mod motor is preferrable to running 4 cell mod class? I have a GM V8 no limit esc and will use the new 3000HV batteries (Santa's next delivery).

The kit came with blue front/green rear but the class is using the purple and grey. Any of you use a stiffer or softer front springs? What application?

I think the reason I went for it was the Protoform Bentley body. I can't believe that I fell for a Green car that the wiring burns up (lucas no doubt) in the lemans 24.

Another question. What is the best entry to a corner with the 1/12. I haven't driven pan cars since oval (6 years ago) and some how I remember we are looking at point and shoot.

Later Ya'll
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Old 12-03-2001, 08:04 PM   #349
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If i remember correctly..the Bentley came in 3rd. in class at LeMans.
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Old 12-03-2001, 08:39 PM   #350
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First time in this thread, so I'm sorry if this has been asked before.

Why has 12th scale gone to 4 cells?

I'm curious, as we are having a discussion about 12th racing in New Zealand and we don't know why the battery voltage was reduced.
I'd love to try a 12th car but there isn't a good venue locally.
Thanks for any input
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Old 12-04-2001, 03:53 AM   #351
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the other bently did have a fire at lemans.
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Old 12-04-2001, 04:58 AM   #352
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Finally raced my SpeedMerchant Rev.3 this past Saturday, and I did pretty well (winning the A main) if I do say so myself. With the holidays and all, I've been setting up this car piece meal when I had any spare time. On Saturday when I put the car down on the track for the first qualifier, I hadn't even had time to setup, practice or learn the layout. As I lined up on the grid, I realized that the steering had not been properly adjusted so the car was pulling to the left during the whole race.

Early in the second qualifier, my "O" ring broke (can't figure out why), so the car began to handle inconsistently. I ended up hitting a wall which caused the battery to become unseated, and break one of the damper tubes.

By the third qualifier, I had everything straight. I took an early lead, that lasted at least 4 minutes. Eventually, the second place car (TQ) caught up and got by. He was actually a slightly better and more consistent driver. After he passed me, I was able to stay on his heels and apply pressure. Unfortunate for him, he dumped with about 1 1/2 laps to go. So I won because of his misfortune.

Anyway, I had a lot of fun racing 1/12th. I had not raced 1/12th or on carpet since October 2000 (and then only 3 or 4 races).

The Rev.3 felt exactly as I remember the Carpet Knife felt. I wasn't sure what to expect using this "old School" front end. The car was consistent, held tweak and was easy to drive.

So far, the rear bearings seem to be in good condition. On my CK I remember the bearings becoming gritty very quickly.

Minor concern: I notice that there is a bit of track surface build up at the rear of the main chassis, and the front edge of the rear pod. I think that my center spring may have been to light causing the center to droop at times. I'll be switching to a stiffer spring to see if that helps.
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Old 12-04-2001, 10:53 AM   #353
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Dragon - It is still a damn Audi with Bentley clothes. ( I owned an Audi Turbo and could wait to get rid of it)

I don't mind but I sure looked good running. The part the pisses me off is the disparity of the LMP 900 class with the Audis running away. Cadillac is the one that really makes me laugh, here they are in the states telling us of their commitment to racing and if they spent more than a quarter of what audi did I'd be surprised. I guess my real question is what mind set does the german car makers have in showing the can beat every one if they dump obscene amounts of money. It is this philosophy the kills racing. We don't see toyota, honda, nissan because they are waiting for audi to fizzle out before the use road racing as a marketing junket again. In someways this is why f-1 is so successful. If you are not there now, you ain't getting in unless you commit enough money to guarantee long term entry. look at the toyota effort in f-1.

back to 1/12

Mod motor recommendations please.

With the associated front "new school" spring config?

I did a lousy job on the paint but its ready to go, just looking for the batteries now. BTW Santa is the name of my UPS Driver! HA
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Old 12-05-2001, 08:32 AM   #354
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Default come on guys i know someone knows something about tire truers except 1 person..

so far i am told to get an ofna tire truer .what about everybody elses opinion?????
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Old 12-05-2001, 08:56 AM   #355
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Default Tire Truer

The two best out there are the Ofna and the Hudy. Both are fully automatic, Cut great, etc. The only difference in the two is that the Hudy cost more and has a tray to catch the tire dust. But I just like Hudy stuff better, if you got the dough.
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Old 12-05-2001, 09:46 AM   #356
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Default Tire Truers

Although I'd like to have my own tire truer, I pay $1/tire to the track where I race.

Hudy offers 3 different tire truers. The automatic model ("Executive", I think) cost the most. Why go for the automatic model?

Also, Arbors (wheel adapters) seem to be a problem for 1/12th cars. Does Hudy even have one for the 3 bolt wheels?

BTW, Corally has a new tire truer also.
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Old 12-05-2001, 12:19 PM   #357
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Default Tire Truer

Geppetto is right. There is no need to get the automatic. Hudy has a real nice manual one. Corrally's new one is the same as the Ofna and Hudy.

I am not sure if Hudy makes arbors for 1/12th, but I know other brands work with the Hudy.

On rc4less site the have a combo 1/10 and 1/12 that works with both the Ofna and Hudy.

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Old 12-05-2001, 12:30 PM   #358
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We use the Ofna 1/12 arbors for New 3 hole and the Hudy arbors for 1/10 pan car.

We use them on a Hudy tire truer.

I have to go with XrayEye on you do not need the automatic one.

We have the lower of the hudy and it works very well. We take out the screw that move the bit and we do it by hand when we truer the tires.
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Old 12-07-2001, 11:02 AM   #359
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Just moving the thread up. I didn't like it on the second page.

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Old 12-07-2001, 08:09 PM   #360
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Which tire truer has a shield so the foam dust doesn't fly all over the place?
Is Hudy the only one?
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