R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-03-2011, 08:14 AM   #35971
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildManDriving View Post
Hello All, I am running a 12R5.1 at kit setup with boosted 10.5 on Jaco 2xPink front and Grey rear. I'm running on low traction outdoor asphalt, I like the current amount of and feel of steering but would like more rear grip. What setup changes should I be trying and what tyres? I've been using CRC or Jaco as they are most availible to me.

P.S. Again the question of is there a chart of colours from soft to hard? Is the Jaco website in order from soft to hard?
the last 2 digits in jaco's part number is the shore rating. bigger shore is a harder rubber. there are 2 rubber families:
1) black,grey,yellow,white (orange is grey/yellow) are for carpet and wear is higher than the other set

2) purple, lilac, 2xpink, magenta, pink are (shores are 40, 38, 35, 33, 30)

2xpink, magenta, pink are your rear choices, all will have more grip than grey.
__________________
Tony Shimko
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2011, 10:55 AM   #35972
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedude007 View Post
I recently got a new 16 ball CRC spur and 3/32" diff balls, However I think I screwed up and ordered the wrong balls.

I ordered the following:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-72T

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ntial-Balls-12

Could someone direct me to the correct part# for this spur, the balls are too small, they just fall through.

Thanks

I think Dirla is incorrect.

I have this spur myself and it uses 3/32 diff balls for certain.

Straight from the liked website above

"This is an optional CRC 64 Pitch, 72 Tooth, 16 Ball Pan Car Spur Gear. This spur gear uses 16 3/32" diff balls rather than 6 to 12 1/8" balls. This is done to reduce weight and maintenance by increasing the surface contact area, so less tension is needed on the diff nut to keep the diff from slipping. "

It is ok if the balls fall through. They do not snap into the spur like the kimbroughs do. Roll the balls through some 6636 ae lube before placing them in the spur, or build it on top of the inner diff ring half assembled on the axle.
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 08:47 AM   #35973
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
1/8th are too big for the new CRC spurs...they do indeed use a 3/32nd ball. These do not snap in like the Kimbro gears and will slide through. Also you need to make sure you use an unflanged bearing in the middle.
Just to be clear, you're talking about bearing #2 in the attached pic.
This is for a 12R5.1 axle, would either of these work?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...x3mm-Bearing-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Ball-Bearing

The Associated bearing is .250"x.375"x.125"..so about 6.35mm x 9.5 mm x 3.175mm. The spur i'm using is: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-72T

Thanks for helping the noob!!
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-12r5-axle.jpg  
thedude007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 08:54 AM   #35974
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedude007 View Post
Just to be clear, you're talking about bearing #2 in the attached pic.
This is for a 12R5.1 axle, would either of these work?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...x3mm-Bearing-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Ball-Bearing

The Associated bearing is .250"x.375"x.125"..so about 6.35mm x 9.5 mm x 3.175mm. The spur i'm using is: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-72T

Thanks for helping the noob!!
The un-flanged bearing would fit into the spur gear #1 pos according to that pic.
#2 pos is the bearing for the inner diff hub, that will need a flange.
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 06:36 PM   #35975
Tech Master
 
LonnyJ1950's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ. USA
Posts: 1,140
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedude007 View Post
Just to be clear, you're talking about bearing #2 in the attached pic.
This is for a 12R5.1 axle, would either of these work?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...x3mm-Bearing-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Ball-Bearing

The Associated bearing is .250"x.375"x.125"..so about 6.35mm x 9.5 mm x 3.175mm. The spur i'm using is: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-72T

Thanks for helping the noob!!
Neither of the bearings you reference will work. You need this one:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Bearing-Set-2

Good luck
__________________
Lonny
LonnyJ1950 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 06:52 PM   #35976
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the help fellas!

cheers
thedude007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 07:17 PM   #35977
Tech Adept
 
dkrall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Latrobe, PA
Posts: 142
Default

Posted this in the DB12 thread already, but figured I could get an answer here too.

Thinking about upgrading ESCs. If I do, I'm going to get an LRP SXX. Do you guys run these by any chance? I currently have the Speed Passion Stock Club, and trying to fit everything in is proving to be quite difficult. If I get a Stock Spec SXX, I don't believe I'll have to run a Rx pack or a regulator, which would be nice since everything is jam-packed in the vehicle now. The SXXs have a pretty low profile, so I think that it would fit fine, but I'm not positive.
__________________
The only reason people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory.
dkrall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 08:10 PM   #35978
Tech Master
 
LonnyJ1950's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ. USA
Posts: 1,140
Default

My friend has an SXX Stock Spec V2 in his 12R5 and it fits quite well. You don't need a booster or RX pack. Seems like a really good ESC, wish I had one.
__________________
Lonny
LonnyJ1950 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 08:56 PM   #35979
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedude007 View Post
Thanks for the help fellas!

cheers
You can run flanged bearings in all three positions in the 12r5/5.1 diffs. Just make sure they are the 1/4" by 3/8" size; the same as what is in the rear pod holding the axle.
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 09:40 PM   #35980
Tech Addict
 
RacinJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Mesa Az
Posts: 705
Default

I needed to use an unflanged bearing in the spur with the CRC spur gear on my 12R5. The flanged bearing pushed the gear to far over for the balls to contact the rings.
__________________
AE 12R5.2 / McFactory; Roche P12 '16; Team Scream 17.5 & 13.5

1/12th scale, just 1/12th scale.
I love to go like hell for 8 minutes.
RacinJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 10:05 PM   #35981
Tech Master
 
LonnyJ1950's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ. USA
Posts: 1,140
Default

Right, the CRC gear requires a flange less bearing because of the 3/32 balls.
__________________
Lonny
LonnyJ1950 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2011, 03:03 AM   #35982
Tech Master
 
WildManDriving's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Radelaide
Posts: 1,408
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Ran a few practice packs thru the 12r5.1 with some of the changes today. Running Magenta fr, Pink rr and 6.5' caster with a Parma Speed8 body and found the car stable at speed but loose in low speed tighter corners. Is there a body that may help me, or car setup? Or is it as simple as drive more to me confident corner faster.
__________________
. . . - - - Now enjoying Proline tyres - - - . . .
Scale race models: RCHobbyzone, Mugen, Reds, Xpert, Contact, Neo+.
Toy cars: Xray T4'15, Hudy, Nosram/Muchmore, Protoform.
No longer defined as a Off or On-road racer, but simply a RC enthusiast.
WildManDriving is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2011, 08:58 AM   #35983
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildManDriving View Post
Ran a few practice packs thru the 12r5.1 with some of the changes today. Running Magenta fr, Pink rr and 6.5' caster with a Parma Speed8 body and found the car stable at speed but loose in low speed tighter corners. Is there a body that may help me, or car setup? Or is it as simple as drive more to me confident corner faster.
Post your full setup
How are you saucing, what sauce ?
Springs
Droop, frt, Rr
RH
etc

Is it loose on corner entry, mid, or exit ?
Some times Yellow has a lot more rear grip than Pink on pavement.
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2011, 10:40 AM   #35984
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinJ View Post
I needed to use an unflanged bearing in the spur with the CRC spur gear on my 12R5. The flanged bearing pushed the gear to far over for the balls to contact the rings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
Right, the CRC gear requires a flange less bearing because of the 3/32 balls.
Good point. I had only ever ran the 76 kimbrough with three flanged bearings.
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2011, 10:01 PM   #35985
Tech Master
 
WildManDriving's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Radelaide
Posts: 1,408
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

I tried 'Jack the gripper' for 20min no warmer on the rear, but I must apply to much and/or not wipe it off well enough as it was super slippery until worn away.

Tyres fr Magenta, rr Pink. Diameter from packet.
Springs fr .020, side Blue, center Gold.
Shock center 30wt, side damper 20wt.
Ride height 6mm fr/rr with 0.5mm pod droop and 3 shims on kingpin as per kit.
Camber -0.5, Caster -6.15.
Parma Speed8.
Bumpy low traction asphalt with both open and tight corners.

Any info I've missed is as per kit.
__________________
. . . - - - Now enjoying Proline tyres - - - . . .
Scale race models: RCHobbyzone, Mugen, Reds, Xpert, Contact, Neo+.
Toy cars: Xray T4'15, Hudy, Nosram/Muchmore, Protoform.
No longer defined as a Off or On-road racer, but simply a RC enthusiast.
WildManDriving is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:05 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0