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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-23-2011, 05:46 AM   #35926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H I View Post
As far as I know they only got new rear so far, and its got more grip than old one.
Bradd won Much*More Masters with it and Andy came 2nd.
What's wrong with old rim?
New one is same size as Jaco, BSR/CRC
Nothing was wrong with the old rim, just way too small and it was a touch wide Good to see its finally been updated. Do you know what size the rears come Hiroshi? Might have to try some, just wish there was a tyre with a black rim that worked on asphalt
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Old 05-23-2011, 03:07 PM   #35927
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Just ran 1/12th last week for the first time in about 4 years.
Lookin forward to racin again.

Going with the new Speed Passion 2.1EX esc and their 1s 13.5.... (non boosted for now )
Love the fact that I do not need a rx pak or voltage booster!!!

What is the lightest gauge motor wire a guy can use without any issues???
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Old 05-23-2011, 03:13 PM   #35928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burgboyz View Post
Just ran 1/12th last week for the first time in about 4 years.
Lookin forward to racin again.

Going with the new Speed Passion 2.1EX esc and their 1s 13.5.... (non boosted for now )
Love the fact that I do not need a rx pak or voltage booster!!!

What is the lightest gauge motor wire a guy can use without any issues???
16 gauge works well.
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Old 05-23-2011, 03:51 PM   #35929
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Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
16 gauge works well.
That was the answer I was hoping for!
Thanks AreCee.
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:09 PM   #35930
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Default 12R5.1 & KO PDS-951ICS servo

Ok, I have the following issue.

I have two 12R5.1, both with a KO Propo #30048 PDS-951ICS servo. The servo saver axle is not sitting in the middle of the car, its about 0.25mm off center.

With the servo saver sitting perfectly vertical in neutral and no steering input given, this causes one steering turnbuckle to be 0.5mm longer than the other one, while having perfectly neutral toe. So there is an a-symmetry in the steering geometry, giving the following results while steering:

full steering to the left: 16 outer wheel lock, 25 inner wheel lock
full steering to the right: 16.5 outer wheel lock, 23.75 inner wheel lock

So basically I can't get identical lock values on the inner and outer wheels at the same time. Match the outer wheels and the inner wheel lock values aren't similar, and vice verse. For now I've leveled it out somewhat while keeping in mind the outer wheel has more effect on steering than the inner. The other car has the exact same issues.

My transmitter (KO Propo #80400 EX-10 Eurus) is set up as following:

trim: R7 (servo saver perfectly vertical with no steering input)
balance left: 45%
balance right: 66%
travel: 100%

The difference between left and right balance is due to the balance being calculated by the transmitter with the absolute zero point/trim 0 as reference, while the trim is set to right 7 to get the servo saver in a perfect vertical position. Annoying, but not an issue at all.

Now, to the point. These wheel lock differences could all be taken away by making sure the server saver is sitting in the middle of the car, by modifying the servo mounting blocks or chassis plate. Are there any servo mounts available for this car/servo combo?

A second solution, but a rather nasty one, might be setting the car up with the servo saver not sitting vertical in neutral, but under an angle, with no steering input and the wheels in perfectly neutral toe. It might work, but it would involve a lot of tinkering and I think its way too messy. Symmetry is key imo.
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Last edited by kjoer; 05-28-2011 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:36 PM   #35931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjoer View Post
Ok, I have the following issue.

I have two 12R5.1, both with a KO Propo #30048 PDS-951ICS servo. The servo saver axle is not sitting in the middle of the car, its about 0.25mm off center.

With the servo saver sitting perfectly vertical in neutral and no steering input given, this causes one steering turnbuckle to be 0.5mm longer than the other one, while having perfectly neutral toe. So there is an a-symmetry in the steering geometry, giving the following results while steering:

full steering to the left: 16 outer wheel lock, 25 inner wheel lock
full steering to the right: 16.5 outer wheel lock, 23.75 inner wheel lock

So basically I can't get identical lock values on the inner and outer wheels at the same time. Match the outer wheels and the inner wheel lock values aren't similar, and vice verse. For now I've averaged it out while keeping in mind the outer wheel has more effect on steering than the inner. The other car has the exact same issues.

My transmitter (KO Propo #80400 EX-10 Eurus) is set up as following:

trim: R7 (servo saver perfectly vertical with no steering input)
balance left: 45%
balance right: 66%
travel: 100%

The difference between left and right balance is due to the balance being calculated with the absolute zero point/trim 0 as reference, with the trim being set to right 7 to get the servo saver in a perfect vertical position. Annoying, but not an issue at all.

Now, to the point. These wheel lock differences could all be taken away by making sure the server saver is sitting in the middle of the car, by modifying the servo mounting blocks or chassis plate. Are there any servo mounts available for this car/servo combo?

A second solution, but a rather nasty one, might be setting the car up with the servo saver not sitting vertical in neutral, but under an angle, with no steering input and the wheels in perfectly neutral toe. It might work, but it would involve a lot of tinkering and I think its way too messy. Symmetry is key imo.
It's perfectly centered with Futaba servos, but It helped to hold the servo to the left side of the chassis while tightening the mounts.
You could use servo tape to install your KO centered.

Like you, I prefer hard mounts though.
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Old 05-28-2011, 11:19 PM   #35932
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There ought to be enough play between the servo ears and the mount to allow you to shift it in which ever direction you need .25 mm. If not, try using a slightly smaller OD shim behind the screw you are using to attach the servo to the servo mount. This will allow some wiggle room.
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Old 05-28-2011, 11:50 PM   #35933
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since we're talking about servos not being centered - anyone have a savox servo? Mine is about 3mm off center. Should I just chuck the servo mounts and servo tape it in the middle?

Like the previous poster - to get the same angle on both sides of the steering at lock, the numbers are way off...
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Old 05-29-2011, 02:55 AM   #35934
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I like to use the servo mounts from the RC12L4, as you can get the servo exactly in the middle because the mounts themselves have a decent amount of adjustment. I only thing I did to them was to take the anodizing off, as a set of BLUE servo mounts in a CRC car is not the done thing, haha!!
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Old 05-29-2011, 03:05 AM   #35935
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Been running my car with 5 degree castor blocks, and was pretty happy with it. I thought I would try out the 10 degree blocks and thought the car had alot less intial turn in. In fact, the car felt very slow on the initial steering input however I got the single fastest lap of the meeting. Would it now be good to stick with the 10 degree blocks and put thicker damper fluid in the damper tubes to get that initial steering back? Just an idea, what do you think? Cheers, Chris.
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Old 05-29-2011, 03:17 AM   #35936
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hi guys,
i m writing here because i m new to 1/12

after a year of 1/10 racing i decided to buy a frind for my tc6..
infact 2 days ago a purchased an 12r5 (first model) which is on the way.

in the meanwhile it is coming i would like to ask some question, i think easy questions for all of you..

-may i use both my lrp stock spec mk3 and my npsram pearl spec for 1c lipo, right?

-talking about servos, there is any way to install a normal servo on the car, or i do need a mini servo?
and in this case, which do you find better? i usually run savox servos, and i have on 1251 which i would like to use,but i think it is a little bit overdimentioned (not in dimentions) in terms of torque,
it is 9kg while i saw all 1/12 servos with like 4/5 kg max?
what do you suggest?

-and about the shell, i m going to buy a protoform speed 12 gtp,
just because it is the one i like most,
but there are any indications for the shell like we have in touring for the speed 6, the ltcr and so on...?

-finally a simple question about the motor,
i decided to strt with lrp 10.5 t stock spec, just because i have a spere one and also casuse people told me not to start with 5.5 or 4.5 or anything under 10.5
in this case i should drive the same final ratio the 10.5 have in touring?
do i need to be 6-6.5?

thanks everyone for your patience,

i rellay need to solve this doubts!

p.s. my tracks are carpet only!

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Old 05-29-2011, 03:29 AM   #35937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeygar View Post
since we're talking about servos not being centered - anyone have a savox servo? Mine is about 3mm off center. Should I just chuck the servo mounts and servo tape it in the middle?

Like the previous poster - to get the same angle on both sides of the steering at lock, the numbers are way off...
Savox servos are well out. The people who have used them here all redrilled the chassis
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:06 AM   #35938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackdani View Post
hi guys,
i m writing here because i m new to 1/12

after a year of 1/10 racing i decided to buy a frind for my tc6..
infact 2 days ago a purchased an 12r5 (first model) which is on the way.

in the meanwhile it is coming i would like to ask some question, i think easy questions for all of you..

-may i use both my lrp stock spec mk3 and my npsram pearl spec for 1c lipo, right?

-talking about servos, there is any way to install a normal servo on the car, or i do need a mini servo?
and in this case, which do you find better? i usually run savox servos, and i have on 1251 which i would like to use,but i think it is a little bit overdimentioned (not in dimentions) in terms of torque,
it is 9kg while i saw all 1/12 servos with like 4/5 kg max?
what do you suggest?

-and about the shell, i m going to buy a protoform speed 12 gtp,
just because it is the one i like most,
but there are any indications for the shell like we have in touring for the speed 6, the ltcr and so on...?

-finally a simple question about the motor,
i decided to strt with lrp 10.5 t stock spec, just because i have a spere one and also casuse people told me not to start with 5.5 or 4.5 or anything under 10.5
in this case i should drive the same final ratio the 10.5 have in touring?
do i need to be 6-6.5?

thanks everyone for your patience,

i rellay need to solve this doubts!

p.s. my tracks are carpet only!

Congrats on your 1st 12th scale
You are in for a lot of fun

I've compiled a list of links here to help with your build.

12th Scale Racing is Alive and Well in So Cal

That body will work well for your application.

Gearing for pan cars is based on rollout for tire size and gear ratio, not fixed like sedan.

Stock spec esc is a good choice.

Futaba S9650 is most widely used servo for 12th.
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:09 AM   #35939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Congrats on your 1st 12th scale
You are in for a lot of fun

I've compiled a list of links here to help with your build.

12th Scale Racing is Alive and Well in So Cal

That body will work well for your application.

Gearing for pan cars is based on rollout for tire size and gear ratio, not fixed like sedan.

Stock spec esc is a good choice.

Futaba S9650 is most widely used servo for 12th.

thanks very much, it will help a lot.

could you just explain a little bit how am i suppose to gear the car?

i mean, i can calculate the final ratio of course, but how the diametere of the tire change the parameters?

spur/ pinion X ratio (which is 1 in pan car right?)
and then?
can you make an exaple with your car so i understand?

and with the consume of the foam tire..do we need to adjust something?

thanks!
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:23 AM   #35940
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Roll-out = Tire Diameter * PI / (Spur / Pinion)

Most guys running 1/12 will measure Tire Diameter in mm, which will give your roll-out in mm.

If you're going to run a 10.5, I've usually run it around a 60mm roll-out with a boosted ESC.

I made an excel spreadsheet I use to figure out gearing, PM me an email address and I'll share if you're interested.
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