R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-16-2011, 01:12 PM   #35896
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

"Back in the day" the preferred servo in 1/12th scale was the Airtronics 94145 servo. So most of the kits from that time forward were and are often still designed around that servo. Hence why it comes with an Airtronics servo saver. The servo savers that use an insert are usually too big for 1/12th and have a much stronger spring than what we need for 1/12th.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 01:18 PM   #35897
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 794
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

..and ironically enough, Associated's own servos take a Futaba horn.

(yes, I know they don't make a 12th scale sized servo, but still...)
Serzoni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 01:23 PM   #35898
Registered User
 
UltegraSTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,171
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

well back in my day, pan car guys lived and died by the futaba S132H. heck many of them only servo taped them onto the chassis, sometimes with a horn. worst case u snapped the horn or popped ur servo off its tape. but most times w/blocks...the old days.

R
UltegraSTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 01:24 PM   #35899
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 794
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

My younger brother's L4 is still rockin a S132H (hand-me-downs)
Serzoni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 01:27 PM   #35900
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

The S132H was popular as well...mostly at the club level. I remember those days as well. Most of the pro drivers were running the Airtronics servos though.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 02:12 PM   #35901
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

My 1987 RC12L, with optional carbon chassis, still proudly sports its S132H!! It also sports its Reedy green dot motor, but I'm not now sure if that is in period, or if I just put it in there one day so I didn't lose it!! The speedo and receiver are original, so now all I need is some period cells that still work - fat chance...

(Sorry, not trying to turn this into the 12th retro thread!! )
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 02:48 PM   #35902
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
"Back in the day" the preferred servo in 1/12th scale was the Airtronics 94145 servo. So most of the kits from that time forward were and are often still designed around that servo. Hence why it comes with an Airtronics servo saver. The servo savers that use an insert are usually too big for 1/12th and have a much stronger spring than what we need for 1/12th.
Actually many racers are now using the Kimbrough medium sero saver (the one with the inserts) because it does have the stronger spring. The TOP and SpeedMerchant cars even specify it in the instructions, not sure about other kits
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 03:04 PM   #35903
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

The problem I've seen with the larger servo saver on many cars is 2 fold...first it is too long from from the center point to the ball stud so you have to limit the steering throw much more. And 2nd because it is longer it is more difficult to get the proper angle on the steering links. I've tried the medium one in a pinch but really don't like to use them.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 03:19 PM   #35904
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
The problem I've seen with the larger servo saver on many cars is 2 fold...first it is too long from from the center point to the ball stud so you have to limit the steering throw much more. And 2nd because it is longer it is more difficult to get the proper angle on the steering links. I've tried the medium one in a pinch but really don't like to use them.
You mount the ball studs on the lowest holes on the medium saver, that's actually shorter than using the middle holes on the small servo saver, so the angles and throw work out better. And the spring doesn't fail as often
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 03:25 PM   #35905
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

I guess maybe I don't hit things as hard as I thought as I've rarely ever had a spring failure with the small servo saver. I think I've had maybe 2 in 15-18 years and those were due to the servo saver coming apart when taking it off of the servo. Of course I don't get to race 1/12th nearly as often as people on the mainland so that could be part of it.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 03:33 PM   #35906
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I guess maybe I don't hit things as hard as I thought as I've rarely ever had a spring failure with the small servo saver. I think I've had maybe 2 in 15-18 years and those were due to the servo saver coming apart when taking it off of the servo. Of course I don't get to race 1/12th nearly as often as people on the mainland so that could be part of it.
We don't get nearly enough of it here either! Of course to me every day would be about right
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 03:38 PM   #35907
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

I have busted a few of the Kimbrough 114 SS in hard wrecks, especially in boosted 13.5. Even with the CF/plastic braces, I have had the whole assembly fly apart. I guess I am not quite the driver I wish I was. My only gripe with the 201 SS is the holes are about .5 mm too close to the center which causes the ball cups to bind in certain applications/ackerman positions.
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 04:11 PM   #35908
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

I've cracked my fair share of the small servo savers but spring issues not many. Of course I'm slow and run the slow classes and am only getting slower So I don't break stuff as much probably.

As for the holes...I've even used the short holes on the small servo saver a fair amount to get the right angles and tame down the steering.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 08:00 PM   #35909
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 155
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi Guys,

New to the 1/12 Pan cars, I thinking of buying a Serpant S120 what do you guys think of the car?

Also what IFMAR engines (turn) do you guys use for modified 1/12?

Bruce
Australia
driver24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 08:15 PM   #35910
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 304
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by driver24 View Post
Hi Guys,

New to the 1/12 Pan cars, I thinking of buying a Serpant S120 what do you guys think of the car?

Also what IFMAR engines (turn) do you guys use for modified 1/12?

Bruce
Australia
Great car with the On-Point chassis.

For mod I run a LRP 4.0 or Trinity D3 4.0. I run a LRP SXX speedo.


Steve Dunn
Indianapolis, IN USA
sdunnmcp is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
oldnwise
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:39 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0