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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-28-2011, 06:02 PM   #35866
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What's the best way to apply the thinnest possible line of seam glue to the tire?
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:33 PM   #35867
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With a plastic Qtip, but I would have to show it to ya. Kinda hard to give a step by step.
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:06 PM   #35868
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You Tube video!!
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:47 PM   #35869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
What's the best way to apply the thinnest possible line of seam glue to the tire?
First and foremost a quality glue is a must. I've been using thin AKA glue lately. The thin Losi glue is also very good.

Most hobbyshops sell tiny tubing made for applying tiny amounts of CA. It's designed to fit in the end of the bottle. I cut off about 3/4 of an inch at a time at an angle, insert the straight end in the glue, and use the angled end to glue the tire. You just tilt the bottle, and a very small stream of glue will leave the end of the tube. I place the tube in the center of the wall of the rim, then hold the glue steady and rotate the tire. As long as you don't linger too long in one spot, you should end up with a minimal amount of glue on just the edge of the rim and the edge of the tire.

Best explanation I can give without showing you.
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:23 PM   #35870
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Thanks. That's pretty much what I have been doing except for holding the glue still and rotating the tire. Old dogs really can learn new tricks.
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Old 04-29-2011, 11:34 AM   #35871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
What's the best way to apply the thinnest possible line of seam glue to the tire?

You could also go to you local all purpose hobby shop and buy a very thin paint brush. I saw one at mine that had just a hand full of bristles that would work great for that.
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:08 PM   #35872
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Someone told me that I can actually use 1s lipo batteries with my Keyence Rapida Pro and the only thing I have to worry about is draining the battery too low. Any truth to this? Thought I'd ask actual racers.
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Old 05-01-2011, 07:02 AM   #35873
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What's a good, cheap servo for the AE RC12L4..
I'm restoring one atm and need a servo for it.

Anything from hobbyking etc is sweet,
Looking into the Hitec 225MG atm.
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:18 PM   #35874
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Default Yes, sorta, maybe

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aries326 View Post
Someone told me that I can actually use 1s lipo batteries with my Keyence Rapida Pro and the only thing I have to worry about is draining the battery too low. Any truth to this? Thought I'd ask actual racers.
Don't take this to the bank, but as the MOSFET system that drives power to the motor is separate in its circuit from the rest of the ESC's circuitry, it will pass 1s voltage just fine in nearly all cases without any appreciable drop in efficiency. However, you will need to run either a receiver pack or external voltage booster as the radio receiver, servo, and ESC internal computer wont run on 1s alone, they need about 6 volts, give or take a volt. New dedicated 1s ESC's have this booster feature internally, but its not incorporated in ESC's meant to run on 2s or higher voltage. You probably will need to turn the ESC's LiPo cutoff to 1s or off completely if doesn't have a 1s setting, and yes you will need to watch the voltage yourself or risk a nice fire, but its not really that big of a deal, as even under racing a 13.5 boosted 1/12 scale has only used 1300 milliamps of a 5000+ pack after a few minutes of warmup and 8 or more of hard racing.

summary: It can probably run on 1s, yes turn off the cutoff and watch the voltage, but you will either need a receiver pack or external booster for the radio/servo/esc circuits.
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Old 05-02-2011, 08:48 AM   #35875
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And to add to the above, I am running a Novak GTB on 1 Cell just fine ( No lipo cutoff) but I am using a Losi Micro T 4 cell Battery for my reciever. All you have to do is not use the ESC's Power switch and just turn on the power to the reciever with a battery or voltage booster.

In 10.5 on a very technical track I am only pulling 2200 mAh in 8 min and I'm hard on the throttle Other guys that driver smoother than I are only using 1900 or so
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:44 AM   #35876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boneyards66 View Post
What's a good, cheap servo for the AE RC12L4..
I'm restoring one atm and need a servo for it.

Anything from hobbyking etc is sweet,
Looking into the Hitec 225MG atm.
225MG or older Futaba 132H (ebay).
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:45 AM   #35877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
And to add to the above, I am running a Novak GTB on 1 Cell just fine ( No lipo cutoff) but I am using a Losi Micro T 4 cell Battery for my reciever. All you have to do is not use the ESC's Power switch and just turn on the power to the reciever with a battery or voltage booster.

In 10.5 on a very technical track I am only pulling 2200 mAh in 8 min and I'm hard on the throttle Other guys that driver smoother than I are only using 1900 or so
wow, we shouldn't have any run time issue nowadays with lipo battery
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:46 AM   #35878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
You could also go to you local all purpose hobby shop and buy a very thin paint brush. I saw one at mine that had just a hand full of bristles that would work great for that.
The very thin tubing that can be cut into very small pieces are very good ideas and make a very professional done CA job.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:50 AM   #35879
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Hey guys I'm selling one of my 12R5.1's if anyone is interested shoot me a PM. I only have one run on it it's like brand new.
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:44 PM   #35880
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Default Pod balancing

I recently put a brushless motor into a CRC 3.2R motor pod, which was designed well before the brushless motor inside it. I have been told to balance the pod by one knowledgeable person and to leave it alone and just balance the rest of the chassis by another, so I put it to the internet for guidance: should I bend hell to make the pod completely balanced or leave it as it is?

Also, whats going on with these new 1/12 scale cars? I put my old(er) CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R next to a new 12R5.1 or a Serpent and they are a good 10mm longer. Are these cars going to keep getting bigger and bigger like the offroad or can we actually stay within some resemblance of scale size?
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