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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-25-2011, 04:22 PM   #35851
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I'm a club racer only so I like to get a bit more from my tires So For Rears I only go down to 46mm and Fronts at 44 Gluing the sidewalls to prevent chunking

But there will be plenty of other idea's around here
As I pointed out in one of my posts earlier, I bought some 1/12 gear a number of years ago but because of life situations, didn't get a chance to really get into it. I have an opportunity to now tinker more with it so I was hoping you guys can help me out with some tire questions.

I've got a tire truer and a bag full of unmounted foams that I bought off of here. If I've got an old set of wheels that are completely unusable, can I strip off the rest of the foam and use the rims to mount some new foams? If so, what's the best method of stripping the rims clean and what's the best method to mount the new foams?

When I say I've got a bad full of foams, I really have a lot so I'd like to use them all before I start getting into ones that are already pre-mounted. Thanks for the help!


Henry
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:29 PM   #35852
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if I remember (and that's a push some days) right that was a HIGH down force body made mostly for pavement and REAL low bite. but if anybody else has a line on it please chime in.
I did a little looking into it and yeah, it seems that it was a shell they were running on pavement. I'll just get some redbull decals and make it a display shell (since I'm going to be running pavement when the new track opens near me).

Ahh.... paragon
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:46 PM   #35853
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As I pointed out in one of my posts earlier, I bought some 1/12 gear a number of years ago but because of life situations, didn't get a chance to really get into it. I have an opportunity to now tinker more with it so I was hoping you guys can help me out with some tire questions.

I've got a tire truer and a bag full of unmounted foams that I bought off of here. If I've got an old set of wheels that are completely unusable, can I strip off the rest of the foam and use the rims to mount some new foams? If so, what's the best method of stripping the rims clean and what's the best method to mount the new foams?

When I say I've got a bad full of foams, I really have a lot so I'd like to use them all before I start getting into ones that are already pre-mounted. Thanks for the help!


Henry
That largely depends on the mounting method used on the tires and the plastic used. The older sets used a contact cement type of glue on the foam so you could just soak the rims in lacquer thinner and the foam would come right off. Most of today's sets use CA glue and the rims don't take well to being soaked in a solvent. On those types of rims the best thing to do is use the tire truer and true down as close to the rim as you can get.
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:38 PM   #35854
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Hi Robert!
we really missed ur pics on rc50 this season!!!!

the C60 was our first body we do back in 2004.....wow long time ago....

didnt really handle good with lipo and brushless....but yes it was designed for the pavment worlds in Kissimee, we had 2 of them in the A-Main....Marc and Jilles...

Robert
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:57 PM   #35855
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That largely depends on the mounting method used on the tires and the plastic used. The older sets used a contact cement type of glue on the foam so you could just soak the rims in lacquer thinner and the foam would come right off. Most of today's sets use CA glue and the rims don't take well to being soaked in a solvent. On those types of rims the best thing to do is use the tire truer and true down as close to the rim as you can get.

Thanks! I'm going to mount a few sets this weekend. Also, someone mentioned putting glue on the sidewalls so the tires don't chunk as easily. What kind of glue goes on the sidewalls and how much?
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:05 AM   #35856
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Thanks! I'm going to mount a few sets this weekend. Also, someone mentioned putting glue on the sidewalls so the tires don't chunk as easily. What kind of glue goes on the sidewalls and how much?
This might not be gospel, but I suggest not gluing the tire sidewall. When you put glue on the sidewall it may resist chunking slightly better (if its done perfectly), but not much, what would be more effective would be to round off the very outside edge of the foam so the rim is the widest part of the tire. Glue on the sidewall also changes the shore rating of the tire unpredictably. If your tires chunk anyway and you can find the piece, PLIOBOND glue which ACE Hardware sometimes carries is a great repair glue, as it dries flexible.

The most proven way to prevent chunking is to turn the tires down, especially front tires, to about 2-3mm of actual foam on the rim, but you will probably chunk tires like the rest of us. Don't resent it, its part of racing 1/12 scale, and even if a tire is chunked it can still be used.
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:21 PM   #35857
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Thanks! I'm going to mount a few sets this weekend. Also, someone mentioned putting glue on the sidewalls so the tires don't chunk as easily. What kind of glue goes on the sidewalls and how much?
The (super) gluing of the side walls helps stop the side walls 'flexing over' in high grip conditions, rather than stopping tyres chunking mate.
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:56 PM   #35858
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Hi Robert!
we really missed ur pics on rc50 this season!!!!

the C60 was our first body we do back in 2004.....wow long time ago....

didnt really handle good with lipo and brushless....but yes it was designed for the pavment worlds in Kissimee, we had 2 of them in the A-Main....Marc and Jilles...

Robert
Any news from Black Arts as to when the Mercedes WGT body will be released?
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:39 AM   #35859
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The (super) gluing of the side walls helps stop the side walls 'flexing over' in high grip conditions, rather than stopping tyres chunking mate.
Actually, "seam-gluing" can substantially reduce chunking on softer compounds like yellows. Just a very thin bead of glue at the point where the rim and tire are joined can prevent the tearing of the foam from the edge of the wheel.
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:52 AM   #35860
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Actually, "seam-gluing" can substantially reduce chunking on softer compounds like yellows. Just a very thin bead of glue at the point where the rim and tire are joined can prevent the tearing of the foam from the edge of the wheel.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:11 AM   #35861
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Actually, "seam-gluing" can substantially reduce chunking on softer compounds like yellows. Just a very thin bead of glue at the point where the rim and tire are joined can prevent the tearing of the foam from the edge of the wheel.
Nice one mate, from the guys that run in our national series here in the UK, the idea of running the super around the outside edge stops the tyre deforming whilst cornering. If it helps with stopping the tyres chunking, that's all the better. Cheers mate.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:22 AM   #35862
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The (super) gluing of the side walls helps stop the side walls 'flexing over' in high grip conditions, rather than stopping tyres chunking mate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Actually, "seam-gluing" can substantially reduce chunking on softer compounds like yellows. Just a very thin bead of glue at the point where the rim and tire are joined can prevent the tearing of the foam from the edge of the wheel.
Actually factually, I agree with both of you. But I would NEVER count on gluing sidewalls as a cure-all for tyre chunking. That treatment will also 'help' the tyre chunk more if not done properly and also depends on how objects come in contact with the sidewalls of the tyres. Another big help is to radius the outside edge of the tyre nice and smooth.


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Old 04-27-2011, 01:07 PM   #35863
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Nice one mate, from the guys that run in our national series here in the UK, the idea of running the super around the outside edge stops the tyre deforming whilst cornering. If it helps with stopping the tyres chunking, that's all the better. Cheers mate.
Not quite... Running superglue on the sidewalls stops the tyre digging in, and is done when the grip comes up to stop the car grabbing in high-speed corners, or grip-rolling. If the sidewalls didn't flex, the tyres would wear oddly, and they don't.

It's not an exclusive UK trick, it came from the States from those running at their big meetings where the grip can be mega! HTH
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:24 AM   #35864
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Not quite... Running superglue on the sidewalls stops the tyre digging in, and is done when the grip comes up to stop the car grabbing in high-speed corners, or grip-rolling. If the sidewalls didn't flex, the tyres would wear oddly, and they don't.

It's not an exclusive UK trick, it came from the States from those running at their big meetings where the grip can be mega! HTH
Exactly, Gluing all the way up the sidewall prevents the tires from digging in and will definitely help prevent traction rolling.

The bead gluing is more of an insurance policy. I don't do it on Pinks or Magentas, because the higher natural rubber content makes the tire more durable. Whites, Yellow and Greys, are more easily "torn" at the factory glue joint, so the "seam glue" technique just shores this area up a little.

JayBee is right, in a perfect world, we wouldn't drive the cars too hard, or hit things. But occasionally you still get spun by a backmarker, so I seam glue just to give me a bit of "cushion"
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:56 AM   #35865
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But occasionally you still get spun by a backmarker
you shouldn't be so hard on yourself, I don't glue my tires for you.
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