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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-06-2003, 06:45 AM   #3571
che
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Default Easy Question

I want to add a rx pack to my 12th this season to take advantage of the 6volts.

When adding the pack, do I need to remove any wires from the servo or ESC harness, or can I just plug the rx pack directly into the receiver as is?

Also, is anyone putting an on/off switch on their rx pack, or just unplugging it after each run?

Thanks
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Old 08-06-2003, 07:49 AM   #3572
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Couple of things:

1) The ROAR minimum weight for 1/12 scale is 28 oz. You are experiencing some shifts in that to equalize things when people use the personal transponders for timing & scoring. That is where the 29 oz limit has come in. The 29 oz minimum weight includes the transponder and gets you close to 28 oz car weight. Rechargable transponders that are supplied by the tracks are just shy of 1 oz. and the personal transponders are about .6 oz. The 29 oz is a number picked to eliminate an advantage for people using the personal transponder. Sort of like handicaping horse racing.

2) The three shock setup for the rear of the cars is very popular on oval. It is very rarely used in on-road. Delta had a car about 13 years ago, the Spider, that had a 3 shock rear suspension. But in reality, the current setups of dampening discs, or dampening tubes with springs or t-bars is the most applicable to on-road racing. They are lighter than the 3 shock system, and can be setup with lower spring constants and softer dampening than the shock. Some tracks require that.

I hope that helps. Keep the questions and recommendations coming.
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Old 08-06-2003, 07:53 AM   #3573
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che - I use a receiver pack that I constructed from little batteries that are nickel-metal hydride. I did this so I could fit the pack into the available spaces in the car. I use a switch on the pack. The switch is a part available from Novak. The batteries are available from IRS. I also had to obtain a connector harness and that came from Airtronics since I use an Airtronics receiver.
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Old 08-06-2003, 08:41 AM   #3574
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Does anyone know if trinity still makes a small 5 cell receiver pack for 1/12? I remember seeing it in RCCA and someone on the trinity boards asked what the part number was for it, but there wasnt a reply.

Thanks
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Old 08-06-2003, 09:53 AM   #3575
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do you guys know where i can buy a spring steel T-plate for my RC12L? what brands are available? i just did a search in tower hobbies where i usually buy and i cant find one. thanks for any info
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Old 08-06-2003, 10:56 AM   #3576
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marvi- I know that people make them (IRS or Trinity i think...) for oval cars, however i dont think anyone makes them for 12th, nor do i think that they would be the hook up, since they are stiff and springy, although i could be wrong (which is very likely in this case since i dont know alot about t-bar cars, lol). I would still try to stick to a normal t-bar either .062 or .075 (i think those are the normal sizes at least, lol).

IRS makes rx packs for 12th scale, I have also seen them at R/C Madness in CT (www.rdmadness.com) and i am almost 100% sure that they would ship them.
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Old 08-06-2003, 11:03 AM   #3577
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If you're looking for receiver packs, check this out:


http://www.teamrcv.com/modules.php?o...rticle&sid=239
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Old 08-06-2003, 11:28 AM   #3578
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
If you're looking for receiver packs, check this out:

http://www.teamrcv.com/modules.php?o...rticle&sid=239
They have them on sale, and that is a great price!

I am using a smaller 1/4 AAA cell that weighs only 2.4 grams each (not 4 grams). The only difference is they are 80mah instead of 150 like above, but 80mah is still plenty to get you through 8 minutes. The old Sanyo's were only 50mah (same size).

So, I do not need to remove the red wire from my ESC that plugs into the servo? This is what is was told (so the receiver and servo is only powered by the rx pack instead)...


Last edited by che; 08-06-2003 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 08-06-2003, 11:52 AM   #3579
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hi che , not racing corally anymore?

you have any 12th scale for sale?
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Old 08-06-2003, 11:55 AM   #3580
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sorry, it has been sold
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Old 08-06-2003, 11:58 AM   #3581
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yeah i know that, Is it 12th scale carpet season in canada or you're running TCs?
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:10 PM   #3582
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Indoor carpet season starts October 1st.

I am running nitro sedans outdoor right now.
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:13 PM   #3583
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Quote:
Originally posted by che
They have them on sale, and that is a great price!

I am using a smaller 1/4 AAA cell that weighs only 2.4 grams each (not 4 grams). The only difference is they are 80mah instead of 150 like above, but 80mah is still plenty to get you through 8 minutes. The old Sanyo's were only 50mah (same size).

So, I do not need to remove the red wire from my ESC that plugs into the servo? This is what is was told (so the receiver and servo is only powered by the rx pack instead)...
If you don't remove the red wire from the ESC, makle sure you don't turn on the ESC switch with the receiver pack plugged in, otherwise damage will be the result. My suggestion is to remove the red wire fron the ESC plug and use an on/off switch on the receiver pack.
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:26 PM   #3584
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Thank you, that is what I was told to do, just making sure.
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:30 PM   #3585
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My experience is that removal of the red wire depends on the speedo. I had a Novak 410 years ago and it required the red wire from the speedo to the receiver be removed. When doing that, you must turn on both switches. But the LRP Quantum can be done both ways. Just remember that you must turn on both switches if you pull the red wire. I ran the GM V-12 with an external battery and only used the switch on the pack to control the system, leaving the red wire connected to the receiver. I suggest you check with the speedo manufacturer to find out their recommended practice. Oh, Tekin speedos will work with the red wire in place and you only use the battery switch.
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