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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-20-2011, 11:17 AM   #35821
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TOJ
TOJ
TOJ

!!!!!!!

R
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:23 AM   #35822
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Originally Posted by UltegraSTI View Post
TOJ
TOJ
TOJ

!!!!!!!

R
I tried fitting a TOJ on my 12R5, unfortunately, it doesn't clear the pod
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:56 AM   #35823
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I tried fitting a TOJ on my 12R5, unfortunately, it doesn't clear the pod
Then change the car
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:19 PM   #35824
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hi,
i was wondering if any one has fitted a lipo in to a yokommo L4y
thanks
jake
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:33 PM   #35825
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Nooby 12s. Is there lipo conversion kit for L3?
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:39 PM   #35826
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Originally Posted by cuboi View Post
Nooby 12s. Is there lipo conversion kit for L3?
buy a r5 or buy a 1s saddle pack from speedzone
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:19 PM   #35827
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Originally Posted by jake95 View Post
hi,
i was wondering if any one has fitted a lipo in to a yokommo L4y
thanks
jake
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuboi View Post
Nooby 12s. Is there lipo conversion kit for L3?
Yep the Speedzone 1s saddle pack is the ticket for any t-bar car.
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:03 AM   #35828
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thanks ill check it out
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:42 PM   #35829
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Default Spur Gear Size

In converting a 1/12 scale I have had to a Novak Havok brushless, I am going to rebuild the diff and should I just get the smallest spur gear I can find? I was leaning to a 76 tooth Kimbrough gear but if anybody suggests a better one I am willing to learn.

The car is a Carpet Knife 3.2R, if that narrows my options or not.
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Old 04-21-2011, 06:55 PM   #35830
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
In converting a 1/12 scale I have had to a Novak Havok brushless, I am going to rebuild the diff and should I just get the smallest spur gear I can find? I was leaning to a 76 tooth Kimbrough gear but if anybody suggests a better one I am willing to learn.

The car is a Carpet Knife 3.2R, if that narrows my options or not.
Precision Racing Systems (PRS)
Pro Lite Spur Gear-71 tooth, 64 pitch
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=PRS6471PL

PRS Gears are very durable, have space for 12 balls, perfect for 12th scale.
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Old 04-21-2011, 06:56 PM   #35831
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If I understand what you're asking, a 76 Kimbrough will work fine. I'm geared 37/76, and Jason is about 35/80 if I remember right.
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:53 PM   #35832
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If I understand what you're asking, a 76 Kimbrough will work fine. I'm geared 37/76, and Jason is about 35/80 if I remember right.
What size motor? 17.5?
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:03 PM   #35833
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We're running 13.5 1S lipo on a medium size low grip carpet track. Desert Rat, are you going lipo or 17.5 NIMH?
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:32 PM   #35834
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There has been a dialog about this for a while, though it was more GT bodies...What do you think?
I think Bud's Racing Products needs to bring back the VW Rabbit Body........

Someone made an IROC Z28 body also...... I remember a lights out race that used headlights and tail lights.

Jeff
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:56 PM   #35835
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Default 13.5 with a 1s lipo

I was going to put my Ballistic 13.5 in it with a 1s LiPo from Promatch, just need some 16 gauge wire and a Novak voltage booster. I thought about getting a LiFe receiver pack but the pack would weigh 40 grams and the booster only weighs 13 or so. I probably won't have the whole thing complete by this Sunday, and as Sunday is Easter it wouldn't matter anyway, but I hope to get it done and that big speed control shoehorned in, balance the rear pod, things like that.
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