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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-19-2011, 02:33 PM   #35806
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And a Carbon 12L of course, still have it.
Still have mine too, but it was my 6Th car.
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:37 PM   #35807
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I fondly remember the days when we had pancar body shells that at least hinted at the look of real group c racecars. Not only the bodies, but also the replica decal sets could be had. Much of what drew me to the hobby was the fun of building up a car that looked like a Miller High Life 962 porsche, an AMG mercedes, a Texaco Havoline 962, a Castrol jaguar, or a GTP nissan. I've had all of those at one time or another. One of my most vivid memories of Cleveland was the year when there was a guy who brought an absolutely incredible looking KreepyKrawly 962 that was all done in paint (no decals). His car was just awesome looking. Incredible workmanship and creativity. Nowadays nobody (including me) does realistic looking paint jobs. That's too bad. Once you've seen one car that's been painted up with the new trend of fluorescent flames or tribal graphix, that style of body all look the same. I long for the days when the RC grid took on the look of real racing.........just shrunk to scale. I'd gladly return to doing up realistic looking cars.........if only I could find the decal sets (and preferably some semi-realistic looking bodies to go along with them).
The Japanese sites that sell F1 decals sometimes have Indy/IMSA sets as well...Like D-Drive Sports



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Old 04-19-2011, 02:40 PM   #35808
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Default healthy 1/12th

Since some (including me) seem to really enjoy the realistic look of a body shell that's more true to scale, perhaps it would be a good thing to consider running the limited 1/12th scale class (blinky 17.5) with scale looking bodies only. And then to run the mod class (or even the superstock class when it's offered) with more of an 'anything goes' rules package. Back when I ran 1/8th onroad nitro, the primary difference between the sportsman class and the open class was the body shell. Most of the more intense guys gravitated towards running open, while the more casual participants chose to run sportsman.

About the cost of 1/12th these days.............now that the brushless speedo situation has started to settle down some, 1/12th racing has never been simpler or more affordable. Only 2 lipos are needed, and they seem to stay strong indefinitely. Worries about run time have become a thing of the past. The brushless motors are also incredibly reliable and long lasting when run on 1cell voltage. The car kits (especially the CRC) are very reasonably priced. The chassis design is stable. The cars are all super durable and easy to work on. In all these ways, 1/12th racing these days is better than ever. It shouldn't be a surprise that 1/12 has been making a comeback. It is very affordable these days. Now, if only someone could find a way to keep the low profile rubber from peeling off the wheels............that would be the last remaining cost issue to be overcome.
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:48 PM   #35809
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Late 80's when I got bit by the RC Bug.
Yellow wrap SCE's with a whopping 600 secs +/- of runtime @ 10@

Spec tires were Yokomo Frt & RR, because that's all there was at our track.
And a Carbon 12L of course, still have it.
I had those and the red SCR's. Got one of those little Tekin Peak chargers and I thought I had the tight set-up
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:48 PM   #35810
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If you look closely at the shell I posted, I threw a "Strohs" beer decal on the front . I still have a few decals floating around (Autographics?), Sometimes you can get lucky and find the old Beer / Automotive sponsor decals floating around in the old stock of a LHS. I am all for retro 12th shells done in something besides the modern tribal look (not bashing though). I have one unpainted shell like the one I pictured left, came from a huge pile of stuff that Kinwald sold off a few years back, thinking of holding on to it and having his scheme done on it as a display shell. Dude with that large cockpit area wiring was so easy.

RTR? eh, I dunno on that. A RTR dude is going to buy it, run it out in the street (spinning out constantly) and give up. The pricing is so low on most kits anyways.

So if these older shell designs work so good for 17.5... why not a class for that? TC guys get VTA. I know it wont happen but I'd truly enjoy seeing authentic GTP style cars running. Ok then enough nostalgia from me
There has been a dialog about this for a while, though it was more GT bodies...What do you think?







Or more like this??



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Old 04-19-2011, 02:52 PM   #35811
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I think it looks good!

240Z... awesome.
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:57 PM   #35812
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Default cool bod

that slant nose porsche is the shizzle.
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:59 PM   #35813
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Straight up Can Am bodies are also out there...





The idea was a slower 1/12 class a few years ago with the cool old bodies. Now that 17.5 spec is here, that seems pretty slow enough?? We had thought about a spec tire too, kinda like WGT..

Anyone have any thoughts about this?
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Old 04-19-2011, 03:48 PM   #35814
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Great idea !
Nice Alum-Oxide bucks there
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Old 04-19-2011, 03:56 PM   #35815
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Personally I would prefer to stick with GTP, GT1, LMP style bodies...but of better scale looks than what we have. Unfortunately the height of the tires, the rear pod, and the front suspension get in the way of doing many of the cars in a more scale appearance.
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:58 PM   #35816
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I have a Xerun 120a 1s ESC w/ Program box for sale used twice if interested. I also have a Trinity Duo3 10.5 used twice for sale.
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:01 AM   #35817
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Hi guys,

Tell me please what to buy Xray XII Link or BMI COPPERHEAD 12 for carpet?

Thank you! )
Andrey
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:29 AM   #35818
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I can only comment on the xray and I have only had one brakage on this ( rear axal) and this is now a one piece unit so won't brake again. Works well out of the box with a set of associated 020 springs. I don't know anyone withba BMI but beleve they are good also. I don't have any particular brand loyalty with my 12ths and like to try different chassis. Was looking at v designs and top racing rebel next time maybe.
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:06 AM   #35819
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Hi guys,

Tell me please what to buy Xray XII Link or BMI COPPERHEAD 12 for carpet?

Thank you! )
Andrey
I highly recomend the BMI, great customer service and a top notch quality product.
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:09 AM   #35820
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I highly recomend the BMI, great customer service and a top notch quality product.
I'd agree, I have ran 12th with Jason (BMI) a couple of times and he was super-helpful. Called him on the phone a few time just to pick his brain on set-up and again very helpful. The car is def high quality.
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