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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-19-2011, 08:30 AM   #35791
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I think 1/12th declined with everything else with the decline of electric. Then electric made a comeback and so did 1/12th. Then the economy tanked and EVERYTHING declined. On average, I think 1/12th is very healthy.
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:58 AM   #35792
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
I think 1/12th declined with everything else with the decline of electric. Then electric made a comeback and so did 1/12th. Then the economy tanked and EVERYTHING declined. On average, I think 1/12th is very healthy.
Pretty much. I know that when the economy was good and my business was rolling along nicely, I had more than enough money to play with. so did a lot of others. It's only in the last year or so that I'm getting to where I can have some fun again.

12th has always been cheaper for me to run than TC. It doesn't need spec tires or RTR kits, it's great the way it is (still want more OS bodies, but..) Kits are cheaper, so are batteries, shells, less parts to break, and so on. Knowing that I have a indoor track opening near me soon is awesome, I'm stoked to run it again, much more than I'm enthused about TC (I look at owning one as an emergency plan- you can always count on the class existing). The thing I really like about the class is the people it attracts, by far the best group of racers I've run across.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:59 AM   #35793
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
I think 1/12th declined with everything else with the decline of electric. Then electric made a comeback and so did 1/12th. Then the economy tanked and EVERYTHING declined. On average, I think 1/12th is very healthy.
The need for nearly unobtainable, finicky and expensive batteries killed 12th scale. Now that you can buy fairly competitive lipos starting around $40 and you only need 2, instead of six to make it through a race day, the class is once again growing.

RTR won't help 12th scale, but it's been necessary to keep the hobby going overall. The microwave mentality has hurt our hobby greatly. It's way easier to hit the reset button on the playstation than it is to rebuild a front-end.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:28 AM   #35794
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
At the risk of coming off harsh and being proven wrong, I bet you don't have a 1/12 scale, haven't raced the class and haven't built a kit before.

1/12 is growing in a lot of places, leave it alone, it doesn't need the instant gratification RTR junk mucking it up. Plenty of newer guys local have put in the research, asked lots of questions, and then laid down their money on a new kit and electronics, and they've all been having a total blast in the class. RTRs can stay in the dirt, don't take away my onroad kits.
Desert Rat does have a 1/12Th and he wheels it pretty well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
12th has always been cheaper for me to run than TC. The thing I really like about the class is the people it attracts, by far the best group of racers I've run across.
Totally agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
The need for nearly unobtainable, finicky and expensive batteries killed 12th scale. Now that you can buy fairly competitive lipos starting around $40 and you only need 2, instead of six to make it through a race day, the class is once again growing.

RTR won't help 12th scale, but it's been necessary to keep the hobby going overall. The microwave mentality has hurt our hobby greatly. It's way easier to hit the reset button on the playstation than it is to rebuild a front-end.
You should have been racing when we were running Sanyo 1200s. Those were battery wars. And I know a couple of ex racers who gave up RC to go virtual racing on line,


Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
One more for Lonny



I ran one leg of the Mains at the Norcal Nats with this last year, as a result of winning concourse with it, I had to.

It really was fine for 17.5, no difference in lap times.
But this body always did excel outdoors, or on high speed tracks, I guarantee it has less drag than any of the modern doorstops out there.

Grab your vintage 12th scale bodies, and or realistic paint schemes and rock em fellas
Love the Marlboro colors, Thanks.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:44 AM   #35795
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Man I really need to get out those old shells and do up some paint , just to add I have to agree with most that while rtr prob is'nt the way for 1/12 we wont know untill someone tries it. But a semi vta 1/12 class with realistic bodies has been brought up before and I think it could be alot of fun as a 17.5 or 21.5 blinky class; time will tell if it ever comes about i guess. I for one would love to run an old greenwood vet body on one.

HarryLeach you really owe desert rat an apology as Lonnie said he does have and run 1/12 and does so well. Thinking outside the box is never a bad thing.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:48 AM   #35796
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You should have been racing when we were running Sanyo 1200s. Those were battery wars. And I know a couple of ex racers who gave up RC to go virtual racing on line,
I started with the red and yellow 1200SC's and a fiberglass 12L! Back then batteries weren't the reason I wasn't competitive though.....
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:36 AM   #35797
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I spoke the heresy of suggesting that an RTR 1/12 scale pan car could bring new blood to the class, I knew it would get some people worked up and personally I wish that RTR's would kindly go away. Unfortunately if that happened about half of the people in RC today would probably stick with their Playstation instead of coming out to race. I guess that overall a good RTR (which is an oxymoron) would be an easy way for people on the fence to get a foot in the door. Just a thought, it will never happen anyway so for good or bad the purity of 1/12 scale racing is safe from the roving horde of casual racers. Just remember that sometimes casuals turn into life-long RC racers and enthusiasts, I know because I am one of them.
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:22 PM   #35798
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
The need for nearly unobtainable, finicky and expensive batteries killed 12th scale. Now that you can buy fairly competitive lipos starting around $40 and you only need 2, instead of six to make it through a race day, the class is once again growing.

RTR won't help 12th scale, but it's been necessary to keep the hobby going overall. The microwave mentality has hurt our hobby greatly. It's way easier to hit the reset button on the playstation than it is to rebuild a front-end.
Yeah for sure the batteries and motors became a deal killer at one point, at least for me. Neither one would last for long. I remember gp3300's being really good, but after that it was almost a case of "one and done".

FWIW, I checked Corally's site and they have some 12th shells for sale that have a somewhat vintage appeal. If they still stock them. I wish I could get the shells that came stock with a lot of the old Kyosho pan cars, so awesome and realistic looking.
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:42 PM   #35799
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Yeah for sure the batteries and motors became a deal killer at one point, at least for me. Neither one would last for long. I remember gp3300's being really good, but after that it was almost a case of "one and done".
The black and green 4600s were really good too but by that time, lipo was already starting to move in.
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:47 PM   #35800
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HarryLeach you really owe desert rat an apology as Lonnie said he does have and run 1/12 and does so well. Thinking outside the box is never a bad thing.
I stand corrected, so apologies for that.

Judging by the way I've seen off-road go, RTR may increase the quantity of racers, but has the opposite effect on quality. I love racing off-road, but find myself running on-road predominantly these days because the racing is better.

Think outside the box as much as you want, but again, locally we've had plenty of guys cross over to 1/12, most of who have bought their car/kit separate from electronics. I can't think of many who got into 1/12 specifically because they could find a ready to race assembled car.
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:50 PM   #35801
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There actually is a RTR 1/12th. It's a chinese copy of a Corally. I would not recommend it to anyone.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:24 PM   #35802
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I'm guessing the for a RTR 12th to exist, it would have to be slapped together quickly and cheaply, as most RTR's are. You need to take some time to build these cars to get it right (the old 12l4 I had being a good example). What works for (selling) a slash may not work for a pan car. Some people wont stick with 12th due to the attention needed to precision. Pretty much weeds out the class over time and I think you get less hacking with 12th. Just my .02
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:43 PM   #35803
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I started with the red and yellow 1200SC's and a fiberglass 12L! Back then batteries weren't the reason I wasn't competitive though.....
Latecomer! My first car was a 12E, bought before Associated even made a diff for the thing. And Futaba brown box radio.

Our last 2 races have been a bit of a hackfest due to the different skill levels of the veterans and the newbies. It would be nice if we picked up enough new guys to run a novice class, better for them and us.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:51 PM   #35804
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I think my LHS had a pretty good approach to on-road: There's a stock class for the RTR RC18R minis, an upgraded "super-stock" class, and 1/12th scale races on the same night. There's a pretty steady progression for many people... grab an 18R because it's cheap, progress to super-stock, all the while watching the pan cars run... only a matter of time before they're ordering a kit.

(I know, because it happened to me! heheh)
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:52 PM   #35805
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Late 80's when I got bit by the RC Bug.
Yellow wrap SCE's with a whopping 600 secs +/- of runtime @ 10@

Spec tires were Yokomo Frt & RR, because that's all there was at our track.
And a Carbon 12L of course, still have it.
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