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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-18-2011, 09:38 PM   #35776
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
Shell choices-

Which one is the most nuetral and easy to drive smoothly? For someone like myself that is getting back in the "fastest" is not necessarily the best. Looking for something similar to the way the old-school protoform shells worked. I'm thinking some of the Parma shells would be good?
For 17.5, I still love the old Parma and Protoform Speed 8s. Anything faster, AMR-12 is very neutral and really grips.
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:47 PM   #35777
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For 17.5, I still love the old Parma and Protoform Speed 8s. Anything faster, AMR-12 is very neutral and really grips.
Right-O. I was thinking Parma. I did like the older Protoform shells, forgot the name but this style was so easy to drive... I still have this one floating around.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:22 PM   #35778
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For 17.5 the old bodies still work fine



Body: Fast Fashion Nissan GTP-ZX Turbo
12R5 at speed
Camarillo, Ca 2010
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:02 PM   #35779
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All right, fess up, where did you get that Fast Fashions Nissan. I loved that body!
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:11 PM   #35780
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I miss the days of Fast Fashion Nissans vs. Andy's Jags and Toyotas.
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:29 PM   #35781
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I miss the days of Fast Fashion Nissans vs. Andy's Jags and Toyotas.
Are these bodies still available? Especially the Jags
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:39 PM   #35782
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Default man that body is tall

If bodies today were that tall and roomy, wiring the car would be a lot easier, for one.
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:45 PM   #35783
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Are these short enough? I know they're 3/8 but I seem to remember them needing to be awfully short. Have you tried them in the Hyperdrive blocks?
They do need to be shortened slighty, but they will outlast any number of aluminum ones.

And sadly, no those bodies are no longer available unless you find someone hoarding a stash. They don't have the down force of a modern AMR, but I have always thought part of the reason for the decline in 1/12th scale was that the cars no longer bear much resemblance to the real thing. The older bodies weren't scale but they were a lot closer than what we run today. Of course many required a separate wing which would not even be legal today. Stupid rule.
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:51 PM   #35784
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The only vintage 12th scale shell you may still be able to get is the McAllister Chevy Intrepid. I think you can order them directly from Gary on his website.
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:05 AM   #35785
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Default The decline of 1/12 scale

I think that the decline of 1/12 scale has more to do with the fact that not a single one is sold as an RTR.

Maybe thats what should be done, Associated or some other company needs to build a Ready-To-Run Brushless 1/12 scale pan car for $350 or less. Short Course is popular because they look like real trucks, maybe the same could re-energize pan car racing.
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:30 AM   #35786
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Decline of 1/12th scale? If anything it has been more on the rise these last few years. But when it was its biggest there were no RTR 1/12ths either. The Corally is almost an RTR in that the chassis is pre-assembled but not an RTR...and I believe Academy also tried one as well. I seriously doubt having an RTR 1/12th would make any sort of long term gains as most of the RTR crowd don't have the patience it takes to tune a 1/12th scale.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:21 AM   #35787
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Default old bodies

I fondly remember the days when we had pancar body shells that at least hinted at the look of real group c racecars. Not only the bodies, but also the replica decal sets could be had. Much of what drew me to the hobby was the fun of building up a car that looked like a Miller High Life 962 porsche, an AMG mercedes, a Texaco Havoline 962, a Castrol jaguar, or a GTP nissan. I've had all of those at one time or another. One of my most vivid memories of Cleveland was the year when there was a guy who brought an absolutely incredible looking KreepyKrawly 962 that was all done in paint (no decals). His car was just awesome looking. Incredible workmanship and creativity. Nowadays nobody (including me) does realistic looking paint jobs. That's too bad. Once you've seen one car that's been painted up with the new trend of fluorescent flames or tribal graphix, that style of body all look the same. I long for the days when the RC grid took on the look of real racing.........just shrunk to scale. I'd gladly return to doing up realistic looking cars.........if only I could find the decal sets (and preferably some semi-realistic looking bodies to go along with them).
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:30 AM   #35788
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
I fondly remember the days when we had pancar body shells that at least hinted at the look of real group c racecars. Not only the bodies, but also the replica decal sets could be had. Much of what drew me to the hobby was the fun of building up a car that looked like a Miller High Life 962 porsche, an AMG mercedes, a Texaco Havoline 962, a Castrol jaguar, or a GTP nissan. I've had all of those at one time or another. One of my most vivid memories of Cleveland was the year when there was a guy who brought an absolutely incredible looking KreepyKrawly 962 that was all done in paint (no decals). His car was just awesome looking. Incredible workmanship and creativity. Nowadays nobody (including me) does realistic looking paint jobs. That's too bad. Once you've seen one car that's been painted up with the new trend of fluorescent flames or tribal graphix, that style of body all look the same. I long for the days when the RC grid took on the look of real racing.........just shrunk to scale. I'd gladly return to doing up realistic looking cars.........if only I could find the decal sets (and preferably some semi-realistic looking bodies to go along with them).
If you look closely at the shell I posted, I threw a "Strohs" beer decal on the front . I still have a few decals floating around (Autographics?), Sometimes you can get lucky and find the old Beer / Automotive sponsor decals floating around in the old stock of a LHS. I am all for retro 12th shells done in something besides the modern tribal look (not bashing though). I have one unpainted shell like the one I pictured left, came from a huge pile of stuff that Kinwald sold off a few years back, thinking of holding on to it and having his scheme done on it as a display shell. Dude with that large cockpit area wiring was so easy.

RTR? eh, I dunno on that. A RTR dude is going to buy it, run it out in the street (spinning out constantly) and give up. The pricing is so low on most kits anyways.

So if these older shell designs work so good for 17.5... why not a class for that? TC guys get VTA. I know it wont happen but I'd truly enjoy seeing authentic GTP style cars running. Ok then enough nostalgia from me
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:50 AM   #35789
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One more for Lonny



I ran one leg of the Mains at the Norcal Nats with this last year, as a result of winning concourse with it, I had to.

It really was fine for 17.5, no difference in lap times.
But this body always did excel outdoors, or on high speed tracks, I guarantee it has less drag than any of the modern doorstops out there.

Grab your vintage 12th scale bodies, and or realistic paint schemes and rock em fellas
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:19 AM   #35790
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I think that the decline of 1/12 scale has more to do with the fact that not a single one is sold as an RTR.

Maybe thats what should be done, Associated or some other company needs to build a Ready-To-Run Brushless 1/12 scale pan car for $350 or less. Short Course is popular because they look like real trucks, maybe the same could re-energize pan car racing.
At the risk of coming off harsh and being proven wrong, I bet you don't have a 1/12 scale, haven't raced the class and haven't built a kit before.

1/12 is growing in a lot of places, leave it alone, it doesn't need the instant gratification RTR junk mucking it up. Plenty of newer guys local have put in the research, asked lots of questions, and then laid down their money on a new kit and electronics, and they've all been having a total blast in the class. RTRs can stay in the dirt, don't take away my onroad kits.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Decline of 1/12th scale? If anything it has been more on the rise these last few years. But when it was its biggest there were no RTR 1/12ths either. The Corally is almost an RTR in that the chassis is pre-assembled but not an RTR...and I believe Academy also tried one as well. I seriously doubt having an RTR 1/12th would make any sort of long term gains as most of the RTR crowd don't have the patience it takes to tune a 1/12th scale.
+1, we've seen some new faces in the class this year, and looks poised to grow even more next year.
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