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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-10-2011, 01:51 PM   #35746
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Can anyone tell me what this is?
As mentioned its an AE 12l4, excelent car and the speedzone saddle 1s lipo fits it perfectly.
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:21 AM   #35747
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Could be GRP
GRP used to do all of TRC's tires in the early 2000's. So they could be either GRP's or TRC's.
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Old 04-13-2011, 02:03 PM   #35748
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Anyone need some 50c 1s lipos?

IP 5600mAh 50C 1S 3.7v (2x) & BY Energy 4200mAh 35C 2S LIPO
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:24 PM   #35749
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Default Older CRC cars

Just wondering... are any of you guys running some of the older CRC cars still? I see them pop up at very reasonable prices sometime. Really wanting to run 12th again, but the budget dictates everything and I can't afford to drop a ton of $$$ at the moment. Last time I ran 12th the brushless set-up had not taken off yet (still 19 turn and mod) so I don't know if BL will work that well or what. I'm looking at used 3.2 cars, since that is what I had last and loved it. Any reason why getting one for running club-level races should be an issue? Part of my deal is that I want to see if it takes off locally first, before diving too deep. I still have a bunch of parts from my last CRC car too.
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:45 PM   #35750
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
Just wondering... are any of you guys running some of the older CRC cars still? I see them pop up at very reasonable prices sometime. Really wanting to run 12th again, but the budget dictates everything and I can't afford to drop a ton of $$$ at the moment. Last time I ran 12th the brushless set-up had not taken off yet (still 19 turn and mod) so I don't know if BL will work that well or what. I'm looking at used 3.2 cars, since that is what I had last and loved it. Any reason why getting one for running club-level races should be an issue? Part of my deal is that I want to see if it takes off locally first, before diving too deep. I still have a bunch of parts from my last CRC car too.
At a club level the 3.2 is a great car. just a couple of updates to make it easier to drive and for strength

The pro strut front end swap Way easier to work on and adjust

and the Side links need to be switched for turnbuckles.

A Brushless motor do fit. I have seen Spedpassion 10.5 and tekin 10.5 in them. You may have to adjust the left side bulkhead to fit the sensor wire.
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:52 PM   #35751
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At a club level the 3.2 is a great car. just a couple of updates to make it easier to drive and for strength

The pro strut front end swap Way easier to work on and adjust

and the Side links need to be switched for turnbuckles.

A Brushless motor do fit. I have seen Spedpassion 10.5 and tekin 10.5 in them. You may have to adjust the left side bulkhead to fit the sensor wire.
As long as a BL setup will fit in, thats all i care about. all the other little bits can come later. Truth be told if local racing picks up and I'm re-hooked, I'd just spend my $$$ later on a newer car than try a bunch of upgrades on a older one. Honestly, if the carpet track near me that is opening goes strong with 12th attendance, I'm selling my TC stuff. Nothing feels better than wheeling a 12th ... well almost nothing.
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Old 04-15-2011, 04:08 PM   #35752
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hey what is a fast on road electric car brand besides xray
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Old 04-15-2011, 04:16 PM   #35753
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Originally Posted by jackass217 View Post
hey what is a fast on road electric car brand besides xray
Any car can be fast, it depend on tool that hold transmiter :P

m.

ps: xray? same like red bull = water, sugar and a lot of marketing
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Old 04-15-2011, 05:54 PM   #35754
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Originally Posted by jackass217 View Post
hey what is a fast on road electric car brand besides xray
1/10, 1/12, WGT? Asphault or carpet? What are you thinking of running?
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:23 AM   #35755
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1/10, 1/12, WGT? Asphault or carpet? What are you thinking of running?
ASPHALT
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:51 AM   #35756
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
As long as a BL setup will fit in, thats all i care about. all the other little bits can come later. Truth be told if local racing picks up and I'm re-hooked, I'd just spend my $$$ later on a newer car than try a bunch of upgrades on a older one. Honestly, if the carpet track near me that is opening goes strong with 12th attendance, I'm selling my TC stuff. Nothing feels better than wheeling a 12th ... well almost nothing.
Older cars can still be very competitive. The only problem is that a new XL is under 200.00 dollars so you really don't save a whole lot of money.

My car is the original GenX. Last year I got the brushless pod conversion for it and this year a friend got me the XL conversion as a christmas present so I got upgraded for free

If not for that, it would have been better to just buy the new car.
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Old 04-16-2011, 06:43 PM   #35757
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Older cars can still be very competitive. The only problem is that a new XL is under 200.00 dollars so you really don't save a whole lot of money.

My car is the original GenX. Last year I got the brushless pod conversion for it and this year a friend got me the XL conversion as a christmas present so I got upgraded for free

If not for that, it would have been better to just buy the new car.
You certainly have a point, something to consider.
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Old 04-16-2011, 10:56 PM   #35758
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Default CRCarpet Knife

Can someone give me a starting point for truiing tires for this on a high traction carpet track
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:34 AM   #35759
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I'm a club racer only so I like to get a bit more from my tires So For Rears I only go down to 46mm and Fronts at 44 Gluing the sidewalls to prevent chunking

But there will be plenty of other idea's around here
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:07 AM   #35760
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I don't know where else to put this, I ordered a 1s booster from tq cells a little over a month ago and have yet to receive it? Do any of you guys run these and how long did it take to get? I understand they come from Canada but having family in Canada along with many misc transactions with Canadians in the past I'm pretty familiar with shipping times to and from...I ask this here because so far all my efforts to contact tq have failed, Thanks
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